DaveK Posted September 4, 2025 Posted September 4, 2025 2024 Jeep Rubicon X 2011 miles on the clock today Purchased in April of 2024 Driven in fresh air all concrete - no dusty conditions Oil looks and smells NEW Change it now Change it at the end of next season Thx Quote
SwampNut Posted September 4, 2025 Posted September 4, 2025 IF you have regularly driven it to full temp for more than a few minutes, leave it. IF you have done a bunch of low-mile driving where the oil didn't get hot, change it. The above assumes that you will ever own it for more than five years or 1k miles. Nothing at all matters if it's your usual replacement schedule. Quote
DaveK Posted September 4, 2025 Author Posted September 4, 2025 My drives are always 100+ miles at a clip as I only get in it to go for a half or full day “cruise.” Thx Quote
SwampNut Posted September 4, 2025 Posted September 4, 2025 14 minutes ago, DaveK said: My drives are always 100+ miles at a clip as I only get in it to go for a half or full day “cruise.” Thx That oil is clean. 3 Quote
XXitanium Posted September 4, 2025 Posted September 4, 2025 You won't own it by the end of next season? 2 1 Quote
DaveK Posted September 4, 2025 Author Posted September 4, 2025 46 minutes ago, XXitanium said: You won't own it by the end of next season? Nah, this one is a keeper. Although I am toying the idea of getting a 2026 BMW Z4 M40i.... I'd still keep the Jeep. The regret I felt and remember after selling my 2016 Willys is still in my memory bank. Manual, no AC, half doors... damn, wish I still had it. 1 Quote
jon haney Posted September 4, 2025 Posted September 4, 2025 For extra piece of mind, use Amsoil signature series next time you change it. They put extra calcium in the additive package, which helps neutralize acids that can result from too many short trips. Sounds like that is not really a problem for you in this case. Quote
DaveK Posted September 4, 2025 Author Posted September 4, 2025 11 minutes ago, jon haney said: For extra piece of mind, use Amsoil signature series next time you change it. They put extra calcium in the additive package, which helps neutralize acids that can result from too many short trips. Sounds like that is not really a problem for you in this case. Thank you....I'll do it ! Quote
fizzy Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 Is it a hardship for you to pay for an oil change? Quote
DaveK Posted September 5, 2025 Author Posted September 5, 2025 57 minutes ago, fizzy said: Is it a hardship for you to pay for an oil change? No, it's not... but that isn't what this is about. Appreciate your contribution. Quote
superhawk996 Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 Change it. Not because I think it's degraded but because it should get a break-in change, and it'll store better. I know the manufacturers no longer call for a break-in oil change, but if you did an analysis on that oil I'd almost guarantee that it has elevated amounts of metal and other stuff. And it's best to store an engine with fresh oil. Ideally, you'd change the oil on your way to storage so that it's as fresh as possible, but not a huge deal if that's inconvenient. Quote
superhawk996 Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 17 hours ago, jon haney said: For extra piece of mind, use Amsoil signature series next time you change it. They put extra calcium in the additive package, which helps neutralize acids that can result from too many short trips. Sounds like that is not really a problem for you in this case. Calcium has been greatly reduced in modern oils, starting with API SP and I think further reduced for the current API SQ rating. That had to happen to manage the pre-ignition problem in direct injected engines. The calcium reduction is great news for old engines with flat tappet cams because it allows the ZZDP to be much more effective even tho the level of ZZDP is much lower than what the old oils had. 1 Quote
DaveK Posted September 5, 2025 Author Posted September 5, 2025 1 hour ago, superhawk996 said: Change it. Not because I think it's degraded but because it should get a break-in change, and it'll store better. I know the manufacturers no longer call for a break-in oil change, but if you did an analysis on that oil I'd almost guarantee that it has elevated amounts of metal and other stuff. And it's best to store an engine with fresh oil. Ideally, you'd change the oil on your way to storage so that it's as fresh as possible, but not a huge deal if that's inconvenient. I changed it at 500 miles. I changed the Lexus GX at 1000 and my wife's new RX too. Quote
RXX Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 Don't change it. It really doesn't make any difference in consumer (non-commercial) vehicles. You can drive newer cars for years without changing oils. Sure there are outliers and anecdotal reports of engine failures, just as there are certifiable laboratory results of oil degradation and/or engine wear as a result. But in a universe of dwindling fossil fuels and in a universe where we need energy for data centers a hell of a lot more than we need to make more oil for a questionable oil change for a hobby car, the point at where an oil change is needed versus just a coin toss, the sensible thing would be to leave it be and drive it. Quote
OMG Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 2 hours ago, RXX said: Don't change it. It really doesn't make any difference in consumer (non-commercial) vehicles. You can drive newer cars for years without changing oils. Sure there are outliers and anecdotal reports of engine failures, just as there are certifiable laboratory results of oil degradation and/or engine wear as a result. But in a universe of dwindling fossil fuels and in a universe where we need energy for data centers a hell of a lot more than we need to make more oil for a questionable oil change for a hobby car, the point at where an oil change is needed versus just a coin toss, the sensible thing would be to leave it be and drive it. I'm surprised - you haven't paid much attention to Dave have you. I can almost guarantee the oil cap has been ceramic coated. 2 Quote
XXitanium Posted September 5, 2025 Posted September 5, 2025 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-212/?fbclid=IwY2xjawMoS7VleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHnJ-9YlxQMXJPnEcGgOrFhYLVW4uwyzlx8ZtKHw2RKY6kxGFLScj5G6tBap3_aem_LElSP4O0ZJyBqCIkfafluw 1 1 Quote
blackhawkxx Posted September 6, 2025 Posted September 6, 2025 9 hours ago, XXitanium said: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-ford-gt-212/?fbclid=IwY2xjawMoS7VleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHnJ-9YlxQMXJPnEcGgOrFhYLVW4uwyzlx8ZtKHw2RKY6kxGFLScj5G6tBap3_aem_LElSP4O0ZJyBqCIkfafluw https://www.streetmusclemag.com/news/a-4459-mile-survivor-the-one-of-one-mercury-cyclone-spoiler/ 1 Quote
tomek Posted September 6, 2025 Posted September 6, 2025 18 hours ago, DaveK said: I changed it at 500 miles. I changed the Lexus GX at 1000 and my wife's new RX too. Leave it for another year. Quote
OMG Posted September 18, 2025 Posted September 18, 2025 (edited) Dave thinks he has OCD ---- not really, not till he picks bugs and stones out of his cars radiator. Edited September 18, 2025 by OMG Quote
superhawk996 Posted September 18, 2025 Posted September 18, 2025 I've done that with a few, as well as straightening the fins. Compressed air from the back, then from the front, then garden hose. Smart me would have taken some before measurements but I didn't go into it planning to detail the radiator and condenser, just wanted to remove the big stuff, next thing I know I've put over an hour into it. Quote
OMG Posted September 18, 2025 Posted September 18, 2025 53 minutes ago, superhawk996 said: next thing I know I've put over an hour into it Is that all, an hour? Quote
superhawk996 Posted September 18, 2025 Posted September 18, 2025 28 minutes ago, OMG said: Is that all, an hour? Over an hour is honest, without stating a number that's retarded. Quote
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