How to repair this?

[Zero Knievel]

Have this issue with the truck.  As I recall, something caught it and pulled it loose.  I’d like to “fix” it, but replacement parts aren’t available.  It appears to just be a trim piece.  I would think I could remove it and glue it back on, but I suspect it was an inclusive piece…which is now separating.  Any ideas on what to use?

 

[SwampNut]

The rubber shrank and pulled, common.  There's a 3M adhesive specifically for that (of course).  However you're fighting a battle with the shrinkage that you may not win.  My first course would be to inspect the area for the ability to cut this, glue it, then fill the cutout with generic EPDM seals of the right size.  You can buy them in dozens of shapes and sizes.

 

[superhawk996]

As Carlos said, it's probably a loosing battle.  I'd probably cut it near the top where it's not noticeable and sealing isn't a huge issue then put a dab of sealant in the opening.

[blackhawkxx]

Get on a Ranger forum to see if replacements are available, those guys will know or do what the guys above said. 

Edited August 10 by blackhawkxx

[SwampNut]

 

 

I can't remember the exact year, but that's probably close and the same.  Anyway, it seems the part is easy to get.

[tomek]

How about piece of plywood instead of side window? 

[RXX]

2 hours ago, tomek said:

How about piece of plywood instead of side window? 

 

Dumbass. He's in VA. Visqueene and duck tape.

[XXitanium]

Butyl rubber cock

[Zero Knievel]

I will clarify.  This is a trim piece and not part of the window.

 

As such, I’m inclined to use a heat gun to completely remove the piece, clean the mating surface and (optionally) re-glue it onto place.  Better than leaving it loose to get caught on things and ripped off.

Edited August 10 by Zero Knievel

[blackhawkxx]

14 hours ago, SwampNut said:

 

 

I can't remember the exact year, but that's probably close and the same.  Anyway, it seems the part is easy to get.

Look at his photo, it's a side window, not rear.

[poida]

13 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

Look at his photo, it's a side window, not rear.

don't correct the forum ai 

[tomek]

11 hours ago, RXX said:

 

Dumbass. He's in VA. Visqueene and duck tape.

Apologies. I've thought he was in West Virginia. 

[tomek]

5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

I will clarify.  This is a trim piece and not part of the window.

 

As such, I’m inclined to use a heat gun to completely remove the piece, clean the mating surface and (optionally) re-glue it onto place.  Better than leaving it loose to get caught on things and ripped off.

 If you remove it, game over. You wouldn't be able to put it back. Like ever. 

 Or maybe, isn't there some kind of magic solution to make carburator/throttle bodies boots more playable and like new? Perhaps it would work here. 

 

 

Edited August 10 by tomek

[SwampNut]

6 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Look at his photo, it's a side window, not rear.

 

I know, it's the first easy example of parts availability.  I'm not going to keep distilling the answer since, as we can see here, the correct answer will be ignored and a totally ineffective path will be chosen instead.  OTOH taking that path of removal guarantees it will never go back on and then lead to the correct path of buying a new one.

[tomek]

Well, if it won't get back in plywood is always an option. It would go well with Virginia plates.  

[RXX]

12 hours ago, tomek said:

Apologies. I've thought he was in West Virginia. 

Easy mistake to make. He actually does live in western Virginia.

[XXitanium]

...buy a new gasket.

 

The old one has likely shrunk. The butyl caulk comment was a redneck fix that would work. 

 

[XXitanium]

The stuff in the picture is Great Stuff foam though.

[superhawk996]

23 hours ago, tomek said:

Or maybe, isn't there some kind of magic solution to make carburator/throttle bodies boots more playable and like new? Perhaps it would work here. 

It probably would, but it's a temporary fix.  A few weeks after I installed them they were noticeably stiffer, a few months later they were hard as a rock again.  While the seal is soft he might be able to re-stretch it, no idea how long it would take to re-shrink.

[superhawk996]

On 8/9/2025 at 8:34 AM, superhawk996 said:

As Carlos said, it's probably a loosing battle.  I'd probably cut it near the top where it's not noticeable and sealing isn't a huge issue then put a dab of sealant in the opening.

I just noticed that it doesn't appear to wrap all the way around, looks like it ends at the front edges.  If so, you shouldn't need to cut it as long as the top edge will slide rearward.  And it doesn't appear to be acting as a seal, just a cosmetic trim, so no sealing needed.

[poida]

glue it 

 

https://industry.sika.com/en/home/transportation/sealants.html

[jon haney]

23 hours ago, tomek said:

Well, if it won't get back in plywood is always an option. It would go well with Virginia plates.  

NO, no, no.  Then we'll have another 15 page thread on the proper water-proofing material for the ply-wood.  Think before you post, sheesh.

[blackhawkxx]

6 minutes ago, jon haney said:

NO, no, no.  Then we'll have another 15 page thread on the proper water-proofing material for the ply-wood.  Think before you post, sheesh.

I guess it would be hard to tarp it.

[brianmacza]

On 8/10/2025 at 6:24 PM, SwampNut said:

 

I know, it's the first easy example of parts availability.  I'm not going to keep distilling the answer since, as we can see here, the correct answer will be ignored and a totally ineffective path will be chosen instead.  OTOH taking that path of removal guarantees it will never go back on and then lead to the correct path of buying a new one.

 

New truck? THAT would take 15 pages of forum BS to eventually decide that the old one is still good enuff for another decade

[poida]

8 hours ago, brianmacza said:

 

New truck? THAT would take 15 pages of forum BS to eventually decide that the old one is still good enuff for another decade

pretty sure that was already started a while back by someone