Brake system parts

[CBRXX]

Since I was blessed with the rear brake failure at NEXXT, looking to source parts.

I have the Speigler line kit from the group buy way back in the day as a start
Found a chinese brake rotor on ebay for like $60 I thought I would take a chance with, since mine looks pretty f'ed.

Any thoughts on sourcing other parts needed,  and experience with alternatives. 

AllBalls has master and caliper rebuild kits that look to save money over the OEM seals, though not for the secondary master.

 

At a minimum I think I need to rebuild the rear caliper since it was so fried, and secondary master as the source of the issue.  
Probably worth it to plan on the rear master too.   I don't think the front master/calipers were impacted, but it's all original.

 

 

[CALCXX]

Did you ever get the pistons freed on the OEM caliper?

Did you determine the cause of the meltdown?

Edited September 25 by CALCXX

[RXX]

You may want to source the rebuilds out to a local brake shop. They prolly do them routinely, have the tools for the unexpected, and the peace of mind would be worth it for me.

Plus you would get to interact with the natives. I love the Gullah gechee dialect.

[rockmeupto125]

There's really not any great difference between OEM and aftermarket. They are all EPDM, and so many different bikes use the same size Nissan brakes that there's no supply/great cost issue.

 

You might need new pistons or even a new caliper for the rear, but you won't know until you take it apart.  If you want I can look through what few parts I have left for a good rebuildable rear caliper. If you want a used rear disk, I have a couple.  The hardest thing to source will be the secondary master cylinder kit, they run about $50 as I recall. 

[CBRXX]

Might not be a bad idea for local shop, although I doesn't appear much in the way of tools, more time and patience to do it, and those I am short on.

Thanks. Joe.  I did already order the chinesium rotor since it was relatively cheap.     https://www.ebay.com/itm/267106692734

We'll see what the caliper looks like, I think it will be ok.   Will go with the All Balls for what I can get, it does seem like may need OEM for the secondary master, don't think I found that aftermarket.

The meltdown was likely caused by the secondary master on the left fork not releasing pressure, causing a slight drag, which caused heat to build.

Suspect the constant drag and heat caused a gradually increasing pressure that allowed brake to rapidly wear, perhaps balancing out the pressure.

 

This all happened in the timeframe of 25 miles of backroad, where we never stopped.  Touched the brakes at times, but never noticed any drag at speed.

As we entered a small town and more brake activity at slow speed, I then noticed the drag.   After just a few times braking I then noticed my rear pedal going away.
At stop sign I looked down and see the smoking   I suspect at that time the pedal faded was when the pads were gone, the pistons fully extended and was metal to metal.

 

By the time I got Joe & Jess' attention and pulled over, it was really smoking.    Once stopped, I think the heat and pressure really built up.  After 5 minutes on the side of the road discussing options, heard a rather loud pop and a puff of smoke.   The heat at the caliper banjo fitting  melted the rubber line from the secondary circuit and it burst under the pressure.     Even the rear wheel bearing seal was kind of loose and partly falling out of place from the heat in the wheel.    

 

I have never really serviced the system properly, so I'm sure there was ample moisture absorbed into the break fluid to boil to steam.

They weren't new pads to start, but only had about 4,500 miles on them from when I did pads and wheel bearings.   

I had just done new tires 2 mo. ago and the pads certainly didn't need changed.    Guessing when I did the tires and pushed the calipers back, it stirred up crap in the lines.    Had it out for a few very short local rides around town after doing the tires and nothing odd.

 

[CALCXX]

Yeah, that piston is really extended. friction pad gone.

Hot no doubt.

[tomek]

 Well, if quality of All Balls wheel bearing kits is any indicator I would avoid anything from All Balls. Their bearings is absolute cheapest Chinese junk. They suck.

 

 It looks like OEM pistons and seals are still available, so why not to get those. Keep in mind the job of seal in brake caliper is not just to, well, seal but also to pull back pistons that fraction of millimeter after releasing brakes. So brakes won't drag. Seals matter. 

 

Edited September 25 by tomek

[SwampNut]

1 hour ago, CBRXX said:

but never noticed any drag at speed.

 

A consequence of having lots of power on hand.  I melted some trailer brakes behind my diesel 2500 on cruise, never noticed it working harder.  The smoke cloud was super impressive.

 

11 hours ago, CBRXX said:

AllBalls has master and caliper rebuild kits that look to save money over the OEM seals

 

Is it a lot of money?  As Joe said, probably all the same.  My only recent experience with them was a carb kit for the XR, it seemed identical to OE parts, and the entire overkill kit was cheaper than just a couple of the individual parts from Honda.

 

If you're cracking open half the system, blowing it out with air then doing the super annoying full bleed is probably your best path to another 20 years of life.  

[fizzy]

Add a wheel bearing to the list as the grease will be all gone. 

There is a small bleed valve in the system that can clog and maybe cause symptoms you have.  Do not damage it, AFAIK no longer available. 

[Zero Knievel]

3 hours ago, CBRXX said:

I have never really serviced the system properly, so I'm sure there was ample moisture absorbed into the break fluid to boil to steam.

 

Dude...that is painful to read.  Flushing hydraulic lines is a relatively simple task...especially if you only do it every 2-3 years.  Thankfully it went boobies up when others were around to help out.

 

The front calipers on my truck likely started seizing up because they were OEM, 25+ years old and covered with rust...but I still flushed the lines every few years...thinking that was sufficient.  Lesson learned.

[SwampNut]

58 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:

Flushing hydraulic lines is a relatively simple task

 

LOL!  I see you've never done it on a XX.

 

Or, you did the half-assed one that probably wouldn't have fixed this.

 

[Zero Knievel]

2 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

LOL!  I see you've never done it on a XX.

 

Or, you did the half-assed one that probably wouldn't have fixed this.

 

I've done it successfully many times.  It's not hard at all compared to my RS where I need a special tool to actuate the ABS pump to ensure I get all of it.

[CBRXX]

I'm def planning on the wheel bearing and seal to be safe, I did OEM on that last time due to the bad reviews of the others, so would do same.
I think the seals are more forgiving and the AllBalls kit is less than half the cost of buying all OEM individually, but it's not huge money, the rear kit anyway is like $33
https://www.allballsracing.com/parts-search?form_key=L8RwjoPveNsVrXmb&vehicle_type=ST&year=2002&make=Honda&model=CBR1100XX

 

10 hours ago, SwampNut said:

If you're cracking open half the system, blowing it out with air then doing the super annoying full bleed is probably your best path to another 20 years of life.  

I have the Spiegler line kit, so it's def getting a full bleed haha

Edited September 26 by CBRXX

[Zero Knievel]

6 hours ago, CBRXX said:

I think the seals are more forgiving and the AllBalls kit is less than half the cost of buying all OEM individually, but it's not huge money, the rear kit anyway is like $33

Some things ARE NOT worth saving money on.  Your brakes are one of them.

[rockmeupto125]

You might look at brakecrafters.com for free shipping over $50 and 15% off your first order.