30-day Countdown to Road Trip

[Zero Knievel]

12 hours ago, SwampNut said:

It also doesn't say to not put them up your ass.

If it’s a choice between using antiseize so you DON’T have a stuck plug that could break off in the effort to remove it or going without and taking that risk…you need assurance that the plug you are using DOES NOT need it and WILL NOT seize.

 

You’re being pedantic about something I’ve never seen on the packaging (and there is no insert in the box).  Only warning was to not adjust the gap as it comes pre gapped.  If it was a critical factor, it should be on the packaging.  Hence, at worst it may affect performance, but it won’t break the motor.

[rockmeupto125]

7 hours ago, CALCXX said:

I stopped putting anti-seize on spark plug threads in the 80's after the troubles with my new SC500 Yamaha.

Not good. In the early days of anti-seize, it was aluminum base. Not a copper mixture of today.

I used an ohm-meter back then and read the resistance of a blob of anti-seize. Not good. so, I stopped.

Can't speak for todays anti seize with copper added.  ???? Check with ohm-meter when in doubt.

Best be zero resistance.

 

I don't use antiseize on the plug seat, where I expect reliable metal to metal contact. 

[RXX]

4 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

If it’s a choice between using antiseize so you DON’T have a stuck plug that could break off in the effort to remove it or going without and taking that risk…you need assurance that the plug you are using DOES NOT need it and WILL NOT seize.

 

You’re being pedantic about something I’ve never seen on the packaging (and there is no insert in the box).  Only warning was to not adjust the gap as it comes pre gapped.  If it was a critical factor, it should be on the packaging.  Hence, at worst it may affect performance, but it won’t break the motor.

 

OK, so there was no insert in the carton or the box. The only instructions were to not gap with feeler (or maybe that it does not need gapping, I am not fluent in pictures) and to not use in airplanes or powered gliders (I am fluent enough to grok that) You are right. 

But my question is, now that you have read an official stance from NGK re: anti-seize, are you going to continue to use it on NGK plugs? If so, why?

 

[Zero Knievel]

47 minutes ago, RXX said:

OK, so there was no insert in the carton or the box. The only instructions were to not gap with feeler (or maybe that it does not need gapping, I am not fluent in pictures) and to not use in airplanes or powered gliders (I am fluent enough to grok that) You are right. 

But my question is, now that you have read an official stance from NGK re: anti-seize, are you going to continue to use it on NGK plugs? If so, why?

 

I have no issue using NGKs, but right now, my RS doesn't use platinum or iridium plugs, so it's a non-issue.  I used anti-seize on the XX every time and ran platinum/iridium the whole time.  Never had an issue.

 

Again, if NOT using anti-seize is "official" and "important" it should/would be on the product.  There is no valid reason for NGK to put this on their website but leave it off the actual product.  Who visits a website to research a purchase AFTER they have the item.  You only do that when you have questions the included instructions don't answer.

 

I get my NGKs for the truck today.  It will be interesting if there are any indications in this matter.  That they were using this coating since 2001 but never marked it on the packaging, one has to wonder how "critical" an issue this is to debate over.

 

 

[SwampNut]

7 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

Hence, at worst it may affect performance, but it won’t break the motor.

 

A lot of people have stripped alloy threads by using lube and then over-tightening since it's 20% easier.  On top of the problem that Cal pointed out, which I also ran into.  You've built a church on top of a bunch of assumptions.

 

Do not eat the battery door.

 

[SwampNut]

14 hours ago, The Krypt Keeper said:

Dont stick spark plug or air nozzle in ass according to Carlos.

 

Hey dummy, I only said spark plug, nothing about a good time with the air nozzle.

 

[RXX]

5 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

 

Hey dummy, I only said spark plug, nothing about a good time with the air nozzle.

 

https://www.edcparts.com/part/airwater-nozzle-160180-colonoscopes/

[CALCXX]

Speaking of air nozzles, I remember how disgusted we were in Maintenance when the "new" safety guy came thru and confiscated all our rubber tip air nozzles

and replaced them with the worthless "safety" air nozzles. 

 

No problem, we bought them off the Snap-on truck and kept them out of sight in Maintenance and used the "safety" nozzles out in the Plant.

[SwampNut]

Er, what's a safety nozzle?  Screws into your ass so it can't shoot out like the rubber ones do?

 

(Um, well, in theory, they might.  I wouldn't know.  Seriously.)

 

[RXX]

2 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

Er, what's a safety nozzle?  Screws into your ass so it can't shoot out like the rubber ones do?

 

(Um, well, in theory, they might.  I wouldn't know.  Seriously.)

 

Anti-seize is your friend…..

[CALCXX]

These ----

 

https://www.zoro.com/guardair-air-gun-safety-nozzle-2-12-in-extension-aluminum-75ljna-1/i/G4483927/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=21397658631&productid=G4483927&v=&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21397664340&gbraid=0AAAAADw3hZcohvYnkd0Cs9y9YN8y06oIR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_KXHmqiKlgMVhtTCBB3R-TRcEAQYASABEgIMdPD_BwE

 

Rubber tipped air nozzles can be dangerous pressed tight against your skin so, they made us use these with a side exit port.

They are worthless for blowing out small offices such as those found Hydraulic directional valves and motorcycle carburators of course.

 

The best things in life are dangerous.

[The Krypt Keeper]

1 hour ago, CALCXX said:

These ----

 

https://www.zoro.com/guardair-air-gun-safety-nozzle-2-12-in-extension-aluminum-75ljna-1/i/G4483927/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=21397658631&productid=G4483927&v=&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21397664340&gbraid=0AAAAADw3hZcohvYnkd0Cs9y9YN8y06oIR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_KXHmqiKlgMVhtTCBB3R-TRcEAQYASABEgIMdPD_BwE

 

Rubber tipped air nozzles can be dangerous pressed tight against your skin so, they made us use these with a side exit port.

They are worthless for blowing out small offices such as those found Hydraulic directional valves and motorcycle carburators of course.

 

The best things in life are dangerous.

Roll up ear plugs out of those safety nozzles are fun, little tape to cover safety side port. 

 

Ear plugs screams out at mach jesus and hasn't enough energy or pointy bits to put someone's eye out. You know because you only used your approved Z87 safety glasses when someone else was around, if you did get hit in the eye, first question is always where we're your safety glasses.. 

[Zero Knievel]

Phillip, the plugs you pulled, what make are they?  I normally go with Bosch, but sometimes I go NGK.  I know the RS specified NGK, but I likely had Bosch in the XX.

[CALCXX]

On 8/5/2026 at 6:37 AM, RXX said:

 

 The only instructions were to not gap with feeler (or maybe that it does not need gapping,

 

 

The plugs are gapped at the factory then shipped in thread/electrode protective tube.

Pristine, ready to install. 

 

(kinda like that radioactive cocktail you mix)

Edited August 6 by CALCXX

[Zero Knievel]

On 8/5/2026 at 12:09 PM, SwampNut said:

 

A lot of people have stripped alloy threads by using lube and then over-tightening since it's 20% easier.  On top of the problem that Cal pointed out, which I also ran into.  You've built a church on top of a bunch of assumptions.

 

Do not eat the battery door.

 

 

Well, for what it's worth, I got my NGK iridium plugs.  Looked over all of it.  Nothing indicating anything pro or con about anti-seize.  If it was important, you think they would put it somewhere in or on the packaging.  The do warn you not to overtighten, adjust gap or use in aircraft/gliders.

[RXX]

5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

 

Well, for what it's worth, I got my NGK iridium plugs.  Looked over all of it.  Nothing indicating anything pro or con about anti-seize.  If it was important, you think they would put it somewhere in or on the packaging.  The do warn you not to overtighten, adjust gap or use in aircraft/gliders.

So are you going to apply aftermarket anti-seize?

[SwampNut]

DO NOT EAT THE BATTERY DOOR

[CALCXX]

Easier to swallow with anti-seize on it.

[Zero Knievel]

10 hours ago, RXX said:

So are you going to apply aftermarket anti-seize?

I decline to answer because I want Carlos to squirm in the uncertainty.

[Zero Knievel]

This is a freaking rabbit hole.  No manufacturer of plugs puts warnings on their product.  Anti-seize products say they are for spark plugs (no warning to not use with certain plugs).  So, you have to check with the plug manufacturer AND research the year, make and model of the motor to see IF you can/should use it…you can’t trust the packaging (or inserts) to warn you.

 

Fortunately, I’ve never had an issue, so I won’t lose sleep over this, but I will research before going forward with future plug changes.

[fizzy]

2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

This is a freaking rabbit hole.  

Right up your alley. 😀

[SwampNut]

7 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

use in aircraft/gliders.

 

Or EVs, I guess.

 

[CALCXX]

or battery doors

[superhawk996]

On 8/4/2026 at 9:36 PM, CALCXX said:

In the early days of anti-seize, it was aluminum base. Not a copper mixture of today.

I think the common silver anti-seize is zinc, not aluminum, tho aluminum might also exist.  The copper stuff is typically used in high temp stuff like exhaust parts.  I don't know if there's an "official" recommendation about this, but I'd avoid using copper on aluminum parts because I fear the combination of those metals would lead to a bad reaction.  The only time I've seen the combination was on my Porsche's transmission bolts, the heads snapped off several of them trying to remove them.

 

My moderately educated $.02 on this:  Zinc is a sacrificial metal compared to almost every other metal so it protects the metals.  Copper is very noble so your metal parts become the sacrificial anode, particularly aluminum which has a low nobility.

[SwampNut]

4 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

My moderately educated $.02 on this:  Zinc is a sacrificial metal compared to almost every other metal so it protects the metals.  Copper is very noble so your metal parts become the sacrificial anode, particularly aluminum which has a low nobility.

 

Yeah, this, also see the hydrofoil discussion where your comments would be useful.