bryanhes

Yes, no charging before being tested, just removed from the bike. Correct, the voltage running at idle was 12.7 then up to 14.14 at about 5000 rpm.

Had battery load tested today. It showed 13.09v, under load 12.7 and 209cca under load on a 210cca battery so it tests good. Will check R/R over the weekend and start eliminating possibilities.

I can only assume these are some of the reasons people unlink the system.

If it is load related then possibly why at over 3200 RPM it runs smooth with tons of power.

I prefer to avoid trashing any other components. It runs great and no miss or sputter if I keep the RPM;s above about 3200.

I'll pull the battery today and go get it checked. My battery load tester crapped out on me a while back and haven't replaced it yet. I would rather buy better quality and a complete kit if they are superior over saving a few dollars if the value is there. Thanks for the link!

I'll try to get some more time testing the R/R and doing a load test on the battery this weekend between other projects. I have read that the R/R is a common problem. Are these running issues typical with the failure? Is it possible at ow RPM its not sending enough voltage to the injectors at low RPM causing the sputter/ miss?

I thought it should at least read in the low 13's at idle as most anything else seems to. I'll have to run through more testing of the R/R over the weekend if I get a chance. Currently trying to squeeze in working on this and trying get a high top installed on my van and finish up house projects. Then there is that damn work thing that always gets in the way. 😂

Lol, from what I have read I could pull new fluid through most of the system to speed up that part of the job then bleed out the remaining air the traditional way, pump up the rear brake pedal then front brake lever then release the bleeder valve until all air is purged as you would most any other bleed job. Is that not correct? I do have the manual but have not cracked it open. Working on 3 different projects currently 🤔

Kind of interesting, I went back out to the shop to start it up again and check voltage. 12.9v ignition off 12.35 ignition on. Then started it up and it is at 12.70v at idle. I'll have to see if I can attach some leads to check it while riding. I did loosen and retighten both positive and negative battery leads yesterday.

The linked braking system is new to me but I believe I have either a faulty rear master cylinder issue or air in the system. When coming to a stop the rear brake slowly drops down and provides no stopping power. I can grab the front and it works fine. I also can let my foot off the pedal and reapply and it will work. Any one of those more prevalent then the other? Either way I will flush the system and see if that fixes the issue. I have a mighty vac so that will make pretty quick work. I'll crack open the manual for proper procedure.

I finally had a chance to ride it today for about 15 miles after removing the PCIII from the equation. No change. I did pay closer attention to my RPM's relative to the issue in all gears. Doesn't matter which gear you are in it still sputters in the 2-3000rpm range. Almost like a miss, not firing or fuel shortage. Above 3k it runs fine and pulls like a train. That part didn't seem to matter even with the factory ECU, which I was surprised given the 4-1 Micron and K&N. I checked voltage from idle to 5000rpm. It was 12.35v at idle up to 14.14v at 5000rpm. Pulled vacuum line off of FPR again after about a 15 mile ride. Still bone dry. I'll pull the tank this weekend and remove the K&N filter along with check all vacuum hoses and boots for cracks.

Yes, I was thinking PCII but upon looking again it's a PCIII. Dennis didn't ride it much over the last three years or so I think. But he would swap out the fuel every year and run it. But as we know running at idle for a few minutes isn't letting them stretch their legs.

Yes, been this way since I purchased it from Dennis. Get pass 4000 RPM and she pulls hard like it should, even if you get on it pretty good from low RPM. Its that slower gradual roll on that it is the worst. I know he had not ridden it much in the last few years but would try and start it monthly I think he said. Said he never had this issue and the bike has had the PCIII (not PCII), Micron and K&N set up since 2004. I believe Denis purchased it in 2014 from the original owner. But I know PC's can go bad. I'll do some more checking this afternoon.

I have thought about this as well and taking it out of the loop. I am sure there will be some other run issue due to the 4-1 Micron full exhaust and the K&N. But at the same time I have thought about changing it back over to the OE exhaust and header as I have them. But the Micron sure sounds good!