Why Avon? Because was cheap, that is why. About 140 plus tax for 190/55-17.

I need this rear to finish this and start next season. Later when I do Alaska 3.0 I'll switch to Pilot Roads set that is waiting patiently in my garage. I scored those for like 200 bucks brand new off eBay. 

 Back to Avon. Normally when you go from completely worn out tire A to brand new tire B you notice huge and tremendous improvement everywhere. Some people in situation like this conclude tire B is way better vs. tire A except they are comparing worn out rubber vs. brand new. 

 In my case there was huge and tremendous improvement in handling because brand new round profiled tire handles better vs. worn out with pretty much flat profile. One thing has not improved, actually worse. Ride quality. When mounting I've noticed extremely stiff construction, like pain in the ass to put on the rim. Especially when your right wrist/thumb are in sorry ass state.

 So, that tire literally kicked my ass on fast expressway ride. The fact I'm still effectively injured after race track wipe out is not helping. I immediately dropped pressure from 40 to 34 right after the ride. Better. I still wanna see if I can dial out high speed compression dumping. If front equivalent is as harsh as rear,,,,,mercy please. 

Honestly can not recommend this tire because ride quality/ bump absorption is just simply awful, worse I can remember.

I am budgeting an hour a day. Today I replaced the instrument cluster with one I bought from Joe a couple years back. The existing cluster had a handful of issues.

Temp gauge was a chronic issue with Mike. 
Fuel gauge was becoming intermittent.

Speedo was beginning to die.

Swapped speedo unit:

swapped the lights with my LED dash lights.

And fired the bike up.

Note the temp. This is when then fan cut on. It used to peg before it activated. 
Speedo works now (on stand first gear)

Don’t know about fuel gauge, tank is about empty,

 I was pretty amped up for this event, I mean last one for the season, so you can be much more aggressive because if you wipe out you have all fall, winter and spring to fix your bike/ heal your body. It blows. Really. 

 Weather is nice, probably gonna paddle board tomorrow instead. 

 Curious what happened. They are doing construction at The North Course, it'll be different configuration next year, and there was on going issue of water coming up thru cracks in the pavement when the sun was heating up the surface in the afternoons. That's what I hope. 

The other possibility is pretty grave, they were riding today. 

My shop manual goes thru the full rebuild procedure and doesn't reference separate fork oil change procedures.

Any special things to watch for would be appreciated (fork springs under compression...obviously!).

If the oil change doesn't help enough I will move on to new springs...but I am starting with the basics....thanks

I appreciate the feedback!

Either way I will flush the system and see if that fixes the issue. I have a mighty vac so that will make pretty quick work. I'll crack open the manual for proper procedure. 

AllBalls has master and caliper rebuild kits that look to save money over the OEM seals, though not for the secondary master.

At a minimum I think I need to rebuild the rear caliper since it was so fried, and secondary master as the source of the issue.  
Probably worth it to plan on the rear master too.   I don't think the front master/calipers were impacted, but it's all original.

Mentioned in the PUB, but we are back from North Carolina and I have to do some catch up maintenance. I put a brand new Bridgestone S22 on the rear of the MT09 just before we left, and sure enough, had an puncturing encounter with a decking screw, resulting in kind of herpes situation for the tire. We can live with it, but it will never go away. 

Although I didn't have my patch kit, a local auto parts store did have one, and a crappy manual pump that might have been worth what I paid for it.  The simple gooey strip forced through the puncture hole and drawn back held well for a couple hundred miles with no leaks.

So now my dilemma. The repair worked. Do I leave as is and go about my business wearing the tire down? Or do I pull the tire off and put a glue patch on the inside?

That's my head scratcher today. 

And I'll be figuring out how to use these TPMS sensors I got. Maybe now would be a good time to get "in-tire" sensors. 

Going down the rabbit hole, the specs on my bike show it is using a discontinued DID chain. I see a replacement in my future. 
 

Had a flat on the lawn mower.  Couldn’t get the first plug to go in.  Had to use a shot of silicone lube on the part the plug slides through to get it to work.  The plugs might be pre lubed, but it might not be enough.  Especially if you go a long time before needing to use the kit.

On the FI XX, is there a kit to convert both fuel lines so that you can cut off the fuel and disconnect the lines without the usual mess and hassle involved?

I always fill it with ice from my filtered ice-maker for hot summer rides.

last time used, about two months ago. 

Stays pretty clean. Cools my back and refreshes me.

The reseviour looks nice and clear/clean.

The hose has a very light darkening. 

Vinegar, bleach, acetone, Drano ?

The one on the right has the stock wiring. The one the left I strongly suspect is one of those Yamaha replacements but I forget.

I tested the Yamaha and all the bias things check out so I know it is good, but obviously the wiring is different. The stock is used but if it was put in parts bin by me then I know it should be good but I am not sure how to test it. I am going to pack it but would like to test it first. Can an auto parts store do it or is it a simple test like the Yamaha with a voltage/diode meter? 

Along with a new FPR and regulator I think I will have the 3 items that are life-or-death to keeping the bike running. (I am of course open to suggestions) I am getting a new timing chain tensioner but many replace it prior to the trip.

I have toured on a bird at least every other year since 2004 and none of these 3 have gone tits up, but odds, mileage, my abysmal mechanical aptitude and time make the possibility greater.

Will the ECU work just swapping it out or is there a bunch of work involved?

I have had flats, had to have tires replaced, batteries replaced, mirrors borrowed, wires uncrossed, and a new chain in BF Canada and all that sucked, but at least the parts were somewhat readily available. 

These 3 parts would require finding, ordering, and waiting. 

I have always thought that at some point I will break down in Timbuktu and just stay fuck it. I got my $1800 out of this girl and walk away. I'm not there yet.

DCE511B=AC power

DCE512B=no power

I don't know the part numbers for the vacuums.  I bought the non-AC vac because I knew I would never use that, but the fan, definitely use the AC power.

Got my last one from John when he was with us and doing the Bike Bits.  Likely got a spare but no clue in what box it would be after moving.

Found this and appears identical.  If searching elsewhere try the #437.  That 70A is a firmness, higher is harder.

437 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Round, Black, 6" ID, 6-1/2" OD, 1/4" Width

5 pack for $15, I guess I have a lifetime supply.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XYGGA/

They have good charts if ever looking for something different size

https://www.mroring.com/

Details -- Original owner, 39K miles, 5.8L/351" H.O. 4V (Windsor), C6, Limited Slip 3:54, dual fuel tanks, factory upgraded suspension, GVW 8900 (that's important, it's over 8500 GVW).

More details/pics available if needed.

I'd like to find an appropriate OEM pump or its closest equivalent if possible.

The problem seems to be there are very few true OEM parts around for a 42 year-old classic truck/van.

The aftermarket has plenty of fuel pumps for the under 8500 GVW model (typically 5.8L/351" w/2bbl) but not the upgraded 8900 GVW (w/4bbl Holley) version. I can't find a definitive explanation for the differences between the two pumps (8500 GVW vs 8900 GVW) but I've been assured that internally they're different (likely pressure gradients--although my '84 OEM factory shop manual only lists specs like acceptable pressures in the 6-8psi range for all 1984 Ford truck/van V8 gas engines).

In '84 the 7.5L/460" 4V (same block) usually came with an electric pump as an assenbly of the in-tank sending unit. The shop manual references a mechanical pump with similar specs to the 8500 GVW, but that might be a unicorn (the 7.5L/460" was carbed with a different Holley, & mildly tuned for low-rev torque emphasis).

I've tried a mechanical fuel pump for the 8500 GVW. it's lasted about two years (less that 500 miles), but never really delivered as it should. It's now weakening to 3psi or less at idle--I suspect imminent failure.

A few years ago, I experimented with electric fuel pumps & one-way bypass valves, primarily to charge the fuel lines after the van had sat long enough for fuel to evaporate from the carb's float bowls & fuel lines--that didn't take too long with the crap-alcohol-laced-gas we've had to put up with. I finally settled on a Carter-style rotary vane auxiliary pump that's switched on/off from my dash that works fine in the interim. An adjustable pressure regulator/gauge near the electric pump and another gauge near the carb allows me to fine tune the pressure to the carb. It all works, but I'd really like to have the right OEM fuel pump, to keep it as original as possible. (Of course, I'll keep the auxiliary electric pump, just in case--always have a backup).

So, If anyone has a lead on an '84 5.8L/351" H.O. (8900+ GVW) mechanical fuel pump, please advise. I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, y'all . . .  

I will be going on a long trip in a few months, would replacing the whole kit be advisable? I have no reason to believe any of the parts are close to failure.

The single-ear clamps just work, every fucking time.  And you don't HAVE to double them up, but for the ultimate stability, I sometimes do.  They are so cheap.

https://a.co/d/0ejZWNqb

That tool is used both to crimp them, and break them off.  And it's often super useful to clip something off flush.

*Might be an exageration.

Thanks

Any recommendations for resources (web pages or videos) that show how to do it in detail, step-by-step, and with what tools to get it done?