Alright I have an oil leak comming from the cylinder head cover. It appears that I over torqued a bolt up there :(. So i need to gain a better angle so i can drill and easy out the bolt.
Is it possible to just drop the exhaust and unbolt the front of the motor from the frame and tilt it down?

Yes...leave the lowest rear bolt in and it will pivot
You'll have to pull the rear axle to give the chain room too.
Watch all wiring as it gets a little tight but I've replaced head gaskets that way.

sweet thanks

New problem. My EzOut broke which never happens to me. Any Ideas on how to get the bolt out now ?

Left hand drill bit.

A little more thought leads me believe you should be able to remove the VALVE HEAD COVER without much trouble (no tilt needed) then the broken bolt with a lot of work using vice grips. Keep several cold six packs handy and plug the kid’s ears.

How about a picture?

Good Luck!

Mike

I'll post a picture. I already tried the left hand drill bit. I needed to tilt the motor to get to the bolt.

If it were me, I'd get a welder with a tig and a lot of talent. Have him weld a nut on the ez-out and have him get it out. He may have to do some welding on the aluminum after he fixes that...

At times, I defer to those who know a hell of a lot more than I do about how to unfix what I fix. This would be one of those times for me.

Childress welding here knows my by my phone number.

Man that sucks, but for me heating the area round the bolt is a must and a knowledge of breaking points of metals.

How goes it?

I can hear him swearing from here.......

Dang, Wetzel, I think you need to lay off the energy drinks.

I doubt you will be able to drill through the hardened metal of an easy-out, but I think 79cbxMike has the right idea. Remove the valve cover and then use vice grips to grab whats left of the bolt. Heating the area around it should also help. Of course, if you stripped the hex off of the head of the bolt (tell me if I'm getting warm on this), you're looking at some quality time with a die grinder first.

Looked at the parts list and service manual. I believe those cylinder head cover bolts are what Honda calls FLANGE bolts (the washer is a part of the bolt, gives more gripping surface) Can’t see the actual bolts without taking things apart which were just re-assembled after installing HID lighting and destroying a mouse colony between the air box and the engine cylinder head cover -- big operation by those guys, lots of construction, anyway they got some good rides while they were residents.

Just finished a similar operation on my car, had to use a Dremel with a cutoff tool on the head and washer followed by lots of penetrating oil and patient turning in and outto get the damn thing off and out. The threads had corroded into the block. Tight space too. (4 or 5 hours total).

But with the flange gone that bolt should come out fairly easily once the cover is off.

Those bolts have rubber washers/seals on them, might as well replace them Honda had them in stock along with the bolts at reasonable price.

Picture might help.

Sorry I haven't been able to post School is keeping me busy . I found a machine shop that can get the bolt out by electrical destruction. Not sure what that means but for now im going to swith the heads out till i can afford to have them do the work on it. I was going to work on the bike and get some pictures on Thursday but we had a good storm and i got water in the basement. I will post pictures as soon as i can.

I don't think the process is very expensive, if you have the head off.

Getting confused here, are we talking about the head gasket or the head cover gaskets?

After restoration of a CB750, two CBX’S and just routine work on my 02 Bird (plus installation of the Audiovox speed control and HID lighting) some real hard lessons come to mind:

1. Have a Honda Service Manual AND Honda Parts List on hand (we have these online)

2. Gently clean and smooth all surfaces, get all that shit out of the grooves and off the to be adjacent surfaces (like new)

3. Discard and replace all rubber components with genuine Honda parts, worth every cent down the line.

4. If, during reassembly things don’t seem to fit easily (you have to pry and pound) then you are fucking up somehow (step back, look at the books). These bikes are built like fine watches, one of the reasons for their overall excellent reliability. Before our trip out west last year I asked what tools we should take and the reply was “Tools? Hell we’re riding Hondas, we don’t need no stinking tools.â€�

5. Take millions of pictures at different angles for reference if needed.

7. Review the our Garage and Help sections of this and other sites keeping in mind they probably won’t be step by step complete but overall a huge help.

These rules are a direct reflection of the rules I developed as a veterinary surgeon: One must be completely prepared right from the start. Our advantage with machines is that we can pause, re-evaluate and think on the problem overnight or longer without the worry of having to go back in to correct some problem, or watch the patient die because of our incompetence.

Installation of HID lighting (where to mount the ballasts, what type of connections and wire routing is needed to insure solid connections to handle the needed power while maintaining the ease of removing the nosepiece) took a month of planning while I thought and fiddled the problem.

I was talking about the sonic ultrasonic metal destruction of the easout broke off in the hole.
I have done the same thing by using a hardened center punch and then picking the cracked metal out of the hole.

This sonic ultrasonic metal destruction technique sounds interesting but I was unable to find anything on it. Please send a link so I can read more about it.

Thanks, Mike

Don't know of any, but it is used in the machine world to remove Taps, and hard drills. I will look for something.

http://www.brokentap.com/

this one uses a process I know about, edm, and it is what I use to machind complex shapes to extreme precision with the wire type, and metal vaporizing with the plunge type. Basicly electro metal vaporizing.

Not what I was talking about.

http://cammann.com/

more like this...

http://www.2linc.com/tools_broken_tap_removal.htm

this looks cool.

http://www.engineeringhobbyist.com/project...oval/index.html

cool solution

Thanks, never heard or thought of such techniques but might be darn handy. I'm going to check with machine shops around here to see if they do this kind of stuff.

Great info Stan.