Okay, here's a riddle.

I've been getting intermittent charging issues when it warms up it seems to not charge so well. On the way home, sitting in traffic my fan kicked on and killed me dead, ZERO power. I got a jump from some guy in a pickup that didn't know how to use jumper cables, that's a whole other story... Needless to say (oh and I have an HID kit, both hi and lo) i pull the headlight fuse to save power if she's not charging and break all kinds of laws to not sit in traffic any more on the way home. I go in the garage the next day, put the headlight fuse back in and no lights, not hi, not lo, nothing. I checked the fuse and it's good and the fuse block gets power. I pulled the relay, don't know how to check it, the one terminal has crazy high voltage. Anyone have info on how to check the relay or any suspects as to what the issue might be? Other than the nut that's loose behind the handle bars that is.

Edit: 2000 bird, brand new gel battery, I'm pretty sure the charging issue is a loose connection somewhere, it's charging now when I have the test meter on it. Replaced the stator and did the R1 regulator on it summer before last. HID setup has given no trouble till now. Double checked / worked the switch a couple dozen times, not even a flicker of headlight.

Thanks!

Perhaps a bit obvious, but did you inspect your HID power connections? Mine are rather piss-poor (you have single wires plugging into the OEM socket which could work loose. If one of those worked loose and hit a ground? Why the company didn't make a template to hold them firmly in the socket, I don't know.

Yeah, I reached up behind the lights and felt around, seemed like everything was intact, nothing loose. They're only 2 years old. Just odd that things would quit working for running without the fuse, they shouldn't have had any power for that ride home. Very strange.

Have you used the test meter to check that there is voltage at the connections for the HID units?

I guess that's the next step, I just didn't want to take the dash apart again. Just doesn't make sense how they could both go at the same time being separate units and all...

More testing today. I was able to jump the connections where the relay is and had the high beam on so I knew at least one light was good and connection there to. The only thing between the relay and power is the starter switch. I started fiddling with that (which I had done before but not to this extent) and if I push it in slightly and wiggling it up and down I can find a good spot where both headlights come on. What a weird coinkydink that that switch chose to go bad while the fuse was out. So it looks like I'm in for a switch.

Does anyone know, do I have to replace the whole cluster or do they just sell the bottom half with the starter switch only?

Noticed this Thread in the sales floor.
Looks like a complete assembly for sale in that list.

Thanks for the pointer, I ordered a complete salvaged right bar that included the instrument cluster, lever, throttle cables etc. off a 2002. 35. bux with shipping, not bad!