Perhaps this isn't too useful, but here are pix of a Xentec setup.
Click to view attachmentI did use the garden hose washer scheme. In fact, two were required for each headlamp.
Click to view attachmentThe wire grommets fit nicely into the boots. At least they did for me.
Click to view attachmentThe ballasts are fastened to the fairing with "Industrial Strength" Velcro. Were I doing this over again, the ballasts would be aligned with the edge of the fairing, not a half inch away. That would make the connectors at the ends of the shorter cables more accessible.
Click to view attachmentWhat you're looking at was taken right after my first attempt at reinstalling the upper fairing. I was working by myself, and quickly discovered that I needed at least four hands to keep wires and cables organized. So duct tape and twist ties were required.
Things worth doing or remembering:
1. Take a moment to put the bike on its centerstand around 15 feet from a wall. Turn on the headlight and use masking tape or something similar to mark the top edge of the low beam on the wall. If there's a visible bright spot indicating the center of the low beam in the horizontal direction, mark that too. If you'll be moving the bike to work on it, then mark the location of the centerstand with tape before you move it. Once your HIDs are working, you can easily align the headlight by using your tape reference marks. Looking at the back of the headlamp housing, the upper left knob is for vertical adjustment. You'll need a long arm and a little patience.
2. Presumably you'll reinstall the fairing before making the final connections. You can give yourself additional maneuvering room by placing the rearmost of each pair of fairing holes over the frontmost of the two bosses into which the mirror mounting screws thread.
I completed all the wiring with the fairing in this forward position. Once both lights were working satisfactorily, I moved the fairing to its proper position. The very last step was to mount the two transformers (the small black boxes on the longer cables) to the air intake ducts. Once again, Velcro was used.