i have a 99xx and if anyone can direct me to a web site were i can get a lockup for my bird.e mail me at 954kid@comcast.net :twisted:

So, how does a lockup clutch work?

A lock-up clutch is basically like a clutch with gears on it. Once it engages, it locks in place, so it takes an extreme amount of horsepower to make it pop-out. I know for a fact my bike has one in it, and I bought my bike brand new, so it is stock. If it doesn't have one in it, then they took clutch material and springs out of an 18 wheeler because mine locks up all the time, which creates a serious problem when trying to "slide" out of the hole at the track. The clutch is always locking in place, which means you either get big wheelies or bog out of the hole. It takes a lot of finesse to make my bike 'slide' out like you need it to do for good ET's. I thought all XX's came with them.

A LOCK UP CLUTCH WORK ON SENTRICKAL(CAN NOT SPELL) FORCE HIGHER THE RPM THE MORE FORCE APPLIED TO THE CLUTCH FOR NO SLIPPAGE :twisted: :twisted:

Our bikes didn't come with lockup clutches, but came with a clutch that's overbuilt, so slippage is hard to come by. You can finnesse a bit of slip if you play with it right, but it's tricky.

The other problem is that it's hydraulic. A cable type clutch is easier to "work" off the line.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a lockup clutch allows for some slippage at the lower rpm's, but engages harder as it revs up, like "The Kid" said, through centrifugal force.

That sounds like the clutch that I have in my Cobra. A Center Force duel friction. It has weights on it all the way around and as the RPM's go up, the weights press on the fingers putting more pressure on the clutch. I had never heard of it called a lockup clutch though.

Actually, I have streph throat and a serious headache, so the answer to that question would be yes :lol:

However, I was under the impression that the XX had a lock-up clutch of some type. My clutch is a PITA on dragstrip launches, and I actually feather it in and out while I am staging to keep all the clutches spinning so they don't "lock" as hard once I actually let the clutch all the way out. Whatever it is I'm doing when I do that seems to work, because most of the time it results in a good launch. Still, there are some times that when I come out of the hole the bike stands up or bogs big time, therefore I thought that it was a "lock-up" type clutch.

And I know for a fact that they do make lock-ups like I described. I have seen one for a KZ1000 back when I was racing mine, and it did have teeth that progressively locked into place to prevent slippage once it was engaged. Almost like a locking rearend on a 4WD or drag car.

Yeah, the grabbyness of the XX clutch is well documented. Just do a burn out then try to do it again, pop, stall!!!!

MaXX

See, mine is the exact opposite. When I come off the trailer I have the grabbing problem, but after a couple of passes I can slip it. It might be me though, not being able to practice launches before I actually make a pass.

If you can find that post about a cure for that, I would sure appreciate it. I'm sick, am organizing a huge car show for this Sat. for 2 car clubs, and am re-furring the bike, so I'm slammed right now. Besides, I wouldn't know where to begin to look!

:twisted: I also have an MRE multi stage lock up and stacked my plates like you but I still can foot shift fanning the clutch with no problems and no need for an air shifter. I run the lock up with the small springs that hold the arms in and just the bolts and nuts ( no washers) for weights on the arms. I also put in lighter clutch springs. When launching the clutch feels like a 600cc bike, very light, nice slip. Then down track the clutch feels just slightly heavier than stock. The only problem is having to put new plates in every 2 to 3 races. A small price to pay when you go as many rounds as I do. :twisted: