HID lighting is worth every penny spent. And the price for a H7 kit (include two bulbs/ballasts) is now $65 to your door.

...soooo, here you go, for the non-believers, if there are any of you left that is,

Stock low beam H7:


HID 4300K low beam H7:

You've got a nice chest!

Where'd ya get the kit?

... Thanks for the compliment!

Search "H7 HID" on ebay, there are a number sellers there. I got the one that was bragging $65.99. Came from Hong Kong DHL in 3 days just as stated.

What is the amperage use on the hid vs standards? Also, do they seem to get any hotter?

Starting is 10A, running is 3.2A... or 35W running (vs. 55W). Not noticeable to the rider, the ballast gets very hot but is tucked behind the dash, the bulb is well... I don't know, it's in the housing. But works great nonetheless! No melting etc.

Stock bulb draws 55 watts HID is around 35 watts, but the HID draws a bit more for a few seconds while it fires up.

I was next to a friend of mine the other night on his FZ1. My HID low beam made it look like his lights weren't even on.

+1 I reckon the HID LB is brighter now than the old HB was

Click to view attachmentHere's another HID light comparison pic on low beam.

Good choice on the 4300K bulb. They aren't blue enough to cause unwanted attention by LEO's and they still offer GREAT lighting ability.

I ordered a set.
But this is an area I'm green.
Does this H7 4300K work with low and high beam?

You posted only low beam.

Bjorn,
The H7 is a single filament, 1 bulb/ballast will replace with upper light, low beam. I kept the high beam bulb non-HID because I switch it on and off with traffic frequently enough that if it was HID, it wouldn't be very effective. As the HID bulb needs a few minutes to full brightness after switching on. But if I was doing desert run's at 3am a lot, then HID high beam would be very effective too.

OK.

We're so far north that from mid of may to mid august it doesn’t get totally dark.
It will be great to have in the fall.

This set should cover both bikes.

I have low and high HID 5000k.... riding these dark CO roads at night is awesome. Yeah, I'm one of those pricks who likes to rocket through the night, and the HIDs bring your visibility out so far it's incredible. IMO, the farther you can see, the sooner you can stop... I'll never have a bike without HIDs again.

Did you have to do any mods to get the HID bulb to fit the stock socket? Is it a plug and play system or how much mod was it to installing it?

Is this the one you got?
http://cgi.ebay.com/HID-Xenon-Conversion-K...1QQcmdZViewItem

I ordered this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...p3756.m14.l1318


H7 HID 4300K

How much of it was plug and play to install? Never installed one of these, just curious.

EASY!

I got from the seller posted above, flashplus. This particular one came with a rubber guard for the wires... I slid it up the lines against the back of the bulb and put it into place and latched it. Like Byrdman said.... EASY! You do have to find a spot for the ballast though, a little trickier but still no problem if you are an expert at the fine art of.... zip-ties!

Or ppal me $35 and I'll send you the other half of my kit.

PM sent

+1 I ride into the hills of Perth, West Aus all the time in the dark for work and the HB works great
Already saved me form a couple of big Roo's



I got my 5300k from HIDSeller and basically you need to discard the stock plastic plugs and just use the spade connectors to hook up the wiring and you will need a large rubber washer under the clip for the bulb to get the clip to hold the bulb in tight
On the FI bikes I believe the ballasts can be mounted on the back of the instrument cluster, on my carbed bike I had to run some Ali angle from the 2 bolts either side of the headlight and bolt the ballasts to that

I have both of my headlights converted to HID. As for the high beam needing alot of warm up time, I have not had that bad an experience with that aspect of them. If you just fire them up every so often while running along, the ulb must stay "warm" or something as it will fire right up when I hit it. That way I have the best of both worlds.

I have LB and HB 4300K bulbs. Activating the HB takes about 15 to 20 seconds to come to full brightness. The only downside is that you lose the ability to "flash" your highbeam from the off condition.

Forgot what color I bought for my old XX. What's the "whitest" temp?

With low beam HID the following conditions make the HID light flicker and pulse from low power, even after the ignitor has already fired the bulb.

-When the cooling fan is running on the bike at idle
-With heated gear and the high beams on when at idle

Basically the xx generator isn't enough at idle to juice much accessories.

I thought the HID's drew less current than the stock bulbs

They do draw less after they are on, but takes a bunch more for just an instant to fire them off.

Where was this reply when I asked a year ago? Gee thanks.....

Flickering HID's

PM sent with payment.

Got it, will send it out on Monday or Tuesday to you... this is where I installed the ballast fyi.

Nice clean installation Justin. Probably where I'll mount mine also.

Excellent write-up...I see LB and HB HID's in the near future coming my way....

So the easiest way is to remove the windscreen?

or do I have to take of the front?

Runner, you'll hv no regrets...


I've been doing other things at the same time so I have quite a bit apart... but I think at minimum, the windscreen and dash. I didn't remove the dash completely, just removed the mounting nuts and moved (w/harness still connected) towards the triple to get it out of the way. I also re-routed the large harness that you see in the picture away from the where the ballast was installed and moved it going through the center of the stay. If you use that spot for a ballast, one of the windscreen bolts will be very close to the corner so just be aware of that closeness when doing your final securing. Also, it'll be even trickier if mounting two ballasts under there. It can be done though, just trickier.

I'll only use one set on each bike

You're golden!... that part was meant for Runner above with thoughts of LB/HB.

They do...heres the problem.

Normal bulbs will just burn less brightly when they are lacking power. The HID's have a minimum voltage/current that they need in order to burn. They are either getting it, or not getting it. When they reach the min voltage they go out, and that is when the ignitor tries to fire them again. Naturally, it will not work, since you need more power to fire then the minimum burn.
So you get a flicker that doesn't stop till you rev the engine and decrease your power consumption.

I wonder if any of the electrical gurus on here could come up with something, maybe a capacitor set up or something to help cut down on the flickering at low RPM. Something to give the HID set up a reserve to store power to compensate for the lower power output at low rpms or while other farkles are being used taking away precious voltage needed to run the HIDs.

Just a thought. Maybe the better mousetrap theory

Or is the flickering not that big a deal?

This one came today.

Looks ok.

My experience has been, if the bike is operating normal with good batt/rr/stator/etc... no flicker.


Yep, looks just like the one I got. I pulled the two wires that connect to the H7 bike harness back out of the rubber washer/seal. Then pushed the rubber seal all the way up against the bulb, then strapped in the bulb into position. So it's basically used as a washer to help keep the bulb in position.

Not the case for me.

My batt and RR are sound as a pound. I monitor my voltage constantly with a live display.

Still get the flicker when running accessories or the fan is on.

I was at a show and shine in town here lastnight and one of the guys had installed a Voltage Stablizer in his car, apparently it helps to keep a constant voltage output from the battery/alternator. Instead of power flucturating between 13.5-15V is helps to keep it at a constanct voltage.

He claimed to get 30Km more per tank of fuel and he thinks he got a slight power increase at lower RPMs. When I first talked to him I figured he was full of crap but it does make some since when I think about it. Since the sensors in the car don't have fancy power supplies on them the voltage change on the input would change the voltage the computer was reading on the output. That MAY help make the computer more accuate.

May also help with HID flickering issues. Seems to be lots of different ones for sale but if your headlights flickering is bothering you it might be something to solve the issue. I'd say that it IF is does work, it would likely help more on a bike then a car as the amount of power the bike can make is MUCH lower.

VERY impressed with this HID kit. EASY installation and nice WHITE light. I have a Super White zenon bulb for my HB that is VERY white compared to the stock bulbs and this HID light is a lot whiter than it is. I pretty much don't need the HB anymore. It fills in a spot on the ground just in front of the bike.

Best $35 I've spent in a long time. Now I need to get a set for my wife's FZR 1000.

Thanks Jason!!

+1

Fitted both bikes today with the HID kit, and what a difference

$80 to Norway shipped and taxes. 1/2 price of what the sell in the stores.