Hey all,

The threads on my 00 blackbird's oil drain plug hole have begun to strip. I think it's good for about the next 2 oil changes, but after that I don't think I'll be able to tighten it down enough anymore.

Has anyone repaired this type of thing and if so how? I.e. is there enough of a shoulder on the hole to drill it out and retap it for a larger plug?

I've always used a torque wrench on it so I'm pretty sure it's a defect. The dealer doesn't believe it though and won't do a warranty repair, so I'm pretty much screwed there and will have to fix it myself.

Thanks,

LS

I suppose the cheapest option would be to try a heli-coil, and use the stock drain plug.

Ah, ok, that's an interesting idea I hadn't thought about. I thought about replacing the whole pan, but without knowing how/why the original one stripped in the first place, I don't want to spend the money....

Hole in the plug it is....

LS

What kind of torque wrench are you using? Dial type, or bent pointer type? The dial types are horribly unreliable many times. I would never use one. Also make sure you're reading the right scale, have seen a lot of people read the wrong one in either the manual or on the wrench.

I'm with Joe; replacing the pan is the right way. Using the tap-and-seal replacement plug is a very good option too though.

I wouldn't replace the pan, but remove it to install a Heli-coil.

That way you will end up with stronger threads, and won't be out the $110 for a new pan.

Don't try to install the Heli-coil on the bike, as you can never be sure you have removed all the little bits of metal from tapping the new threads.

most torque wrenches only seem to be worth a shit in the middle 1/3 of their range, anyways. fer a draiin plug i just get it snug and give it a bit more, never had a problem.

This is why you should replace the crush washer every time you change your oil.

Not if you put it on the grill and bake it at 350F for a hour. :lol: :lol: :lol:

If the threads aren't too bad try running a tap in it.

Methinks a dealer tightened the plug too tight.

I've never used a tourqe wrench on drainbolts on any of my vehicles and never had a problem.

Still on factory washer also. :razz:

I did try once to dry out a fouled plug from a lawn mower in a gas barbeque. It melted :!: :oops:

I WOULD TRY A NEW PLUG FIRST .HELI COILS DON'T SEEM TO WORK WELL ON DRAIN PLUGS.SEEN SEVERAL I DID NOT INSTALL COME OUT.I WOULD TAP TO THE NEXT SIZE THREAD.WORKED ON A CAR PAN.

Absolutely not true.

Someone either installed it wrong, or there was another problem with it.

If you do a Helicoil right, it will work fine in an open-ended hole. If you're unable to read directions, you might have more success in a closed hole where even a moron would have a hard time doing it wrong.

:grin:

Never had one heli-coil repair go bad, ever.

I was an automotive machinist for almost 10 years, installing Heli-coils every day. If they are installed correctly, there is no reason to come out with the plug.

The only way I could see that happening is if the plug threads are bad, and binding on the heli-coil.

The other problem I've seen more than once, and is a common misconception that it's a heli-coil problem, is where the aluminum threads come out with the plug. Looks like a heli-coil, sort of, but it's just the aluminum threads that have been overtightened.

THANKS rockmeupto125 .I THINK THE OIL SOAKING IN BETWEEN THE THREADS HELPS IT COME LOOSE EASIER.MY OTHER GUESS.ALL MY ALUMINUM HEADER BOLT THREADS WORK GREAT.OF COUSRE QUICK LUBES HAVE PEOPLE WORKING ON CARS THAT COULDN'T FIX A BICYCLE . :grin: