Today I decided it was time to replace my chain and front sprocket. The front sprocket was the real culprit. My ScotOiler kept the chain from going bad, but the AFAM 18t front sprocket just couldn't last as long. I'll probably make a point of replacing them every 10k miles or so, just so I don't have to do both the chain and the front sprocket at the same time. For the most part, I replace the front sprocket when I do the chain, but with the ScotOiler, I get 30k out of a chain. The stock front sprocket pretty much rocks, though, and many people only do them every other chain, especially if they don't have an oiler. I've never seen a stock rear sprocket wear out.

So.... First step was to remove the left lower fairing, and then the bolts on the clutch slave cylinder. Once you've pulled the slave cylinder off, DO NOT PULL THE CLUTCH!!


Here's the front sprocket with the cover removed. Note that I've already pulled off the spacer that goes behind the cover, too. It's a mess in there! I've also removed the rod that connects to the clutch slave cylinder and runs through the engine. Usually this rod is pretty filthy, you should clean it while you have it out.


Usually this rod is pretty filthy, you should clean it while you have it out.


I ran a pole through the rear wheel and used it to keep things from turning while I loosened the 14mm bolt that holds on the front sprocket.



After loosening the bolt that holds the front sprocket, it's usually easiest if you drop the rear tire and push it forward to slack the chain. You can then pull the sprocket off. I've already cleaned up quite a bit here before the picture was taken.



Here's the new sprocket all mounted up and ready to be torqued:



To tighen the bolt that holds the sprocket in place, you put the pole that holds the rear wheel from spinning under the swingarm. Note that I've already re-installed the rear wheel axel. The spec is 40 ft lbs


That's it for the front sprocket. Now on to the chain. Note that if you were just doing the chain, you could start here.

To replace the chain, first you must find the master link. f you're still on a stock chain, there is no master link, so you'll have to just pick one.



Some people dremmel out tip of the master link, but I've found that they usually don't require it. If you're still on a stock chain, you'll have to just pick a link and use a dremmel tool and remove the tip of a pin before you put your chain tool on. Then it's a matter of using the tool to press the pin out.



IF you have the proper length chain, or trust your counting if you have to cut the chain, you can hook the old and new chains together like this. Then you just pull the chain through the front sprocket.



The chain I bought was a 120 link chain, and the XX takes a 110 length (DID ZVM2.) Since I already had the front sprocket cover off, and I didn't really want to have to trust my counting, I opted to go a slightly different route. I pulled the old chain out and laid them next to each other, using the old to measure the length of the new:



To cut the chain, I took a dremmel cutting disk to a pin, grinding off the head. I then used my chain tool just like I did when I took apart the old chain:



So after feeding the chain through the front sprocket, it's tough to get the master link in place. First, remember to loosen the rear axel and move the chain adjusters all the way in, so you have plenty of slack. Next, what you do is put the ends pins on the rear sprocket



The master link will come with 4 o-rings and a packet of white grease. The o-rings go against the plates, so put 2 on the inside of the link, coat the pins in grease, and slide the link through. Then you put the other 2 o-rings on the pins:


I usually just hand press on the outside plate to hold things in place, then move the chain to under the bike so I can work on it:



Pressing the plate in is usually a bit of a challenge. The tool works well for this, but you want to be careful and make sure it's lined up straight, and be careful to not over tighten the press and ruin the O-rings.



I usually press it on a bit, then pull off the press, look at it, put it back on, tighten it down again, etc.. until it gets to a point where it feels like it just won't go any more. Make sure that the link moves freely when you're done. Sorry this pic is so blurry.



Using the rivet tool is pretty straightforward, but take your time and make sure that the pins line up straight. I have looked for a micrometer specification for how big the rivets are supposed to be, but I haven't found one. I have found that for the most part, if I get the tool to tighten down to where it's as tight as I can get it without hurting myself, it's good. Another blurry image, had trouble getting the camera to focus with my greasy hands at this point.



Once that's done, you'll need to tighten the chain and align it. Remember that it needs to be on the side stand for proper chain tension.
I have a neat tool that I borrowed from DavesXX01 for aligning the chain. It clamps on the sprocket and basically draws a straight line on the chain. Really makes it a no brainer to get the alignment perfect. I've found that the marks are pretty spot on on my bike, but this is nice just to make SURE. Check out http://www.project-one.us/


Remember to tighten up the rear axel, and you're done with the chain replacement.


To replace the sprocket cover, first you need to re-install the chain guide. There are 2 dowel pins that it sits on, if you can't find one, check the inside of the sprocket over. You can grab the dowel with a set of pliers and gently remove it from there, and put it back in the engine. While this picture has the pole that goes into the clutch in place, you will need to remove it to get the cover in place.



Here's the cover in place, just about to put on the clutch slave cylinder. If you have trouble lining up the clutch slave cylinder, put the pole in place, pull it out so that it fits into the slot inside the cylinder, and then line it up. Note that the 3 bolts are all different sizes. The shortest bolt goes in the lower right, the middle length bolt goes in the top right, and the longest bolt goes in the lower left. You may not be able to get the cylinder to seat quite flat, I have found that if I get it close, as long as I tighten the bolts down evenly, it finds it's way to where it needs to be.


Remember when you're putting in the 2 bolts that go in the right side of the cover that the kickstand wire holder needs to be positioned. You'll need to to reposition the idle control back in the holder, too. Time to replace the lower fairing and RIDE!

Thanks for the write up Rich. I never thought to have the two ends on the rear sprocket to make the link install easier.

Nice writeup, Rich. Thank you.

I'd like to add a little bit if I could. Not to criticize your methods, but to offer alternatives, and perhaps better understanding of the procedure by benefit of two different viewpoints.


Its possible to perform this procedure without removing the fairing. Its tighter of course, and you can't remove the clutch actuating rod. If you do elect to leave the fairing in place, be sure to protect the fairing edge with some duct or masking tape. Also, pull the clutch rod as far out as you can, clean it, and put some lubricant on it. A strap of 400-600 grit sandpaper or some crocus cloth may be handy to get the hardened gunk off the rod, and while the rod doesn't require lubricant in those areas, it will decrease the corrosion.

I usually leave the slave cylinder in place on the cover. Its one less bolt to remove, and keeps the slave cylinder in capture against the possibility of something bumping the clutch lever and leaving you needing to bleed the system, and worse yet cleaning up hydraulic fluid that hopefully didn't get on your paint.

When installing master links, there is a specific width you should install the sideplate to. The manufacturer will supply that in either overall width of the link that the sideplate should be pressed, or the length of pin extending past the sideplate. Additionally, they should specify the minimum and maximum diameter the pin should be expanded to. If you absolutely have no data, measure another link, press the sideplate to the same width as other links, and expand the pin 10 to 15% more than the pin diameter.

Many folks know I rant about cleaning the clutch rod...but they often don't understand the relationship of the parts. Here are a couple photos to perhaps clear up any uncertainty in anyone's mind. The first picture shows the cap over the clutch rod that presses into the throwout bearing of the clutch assembly on the right hand side of the engine, and the second pic shows the end of the rod with the cap removed. Its important that a bit of grease go on the end of the clutch rod if you completely remove and clean it.

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Thanks for your insights, Joe.


I personally can't imagine trying to get into that tight space to work without removing the lower fairing. Of course, I've done this a few times, and it takes me under 5 minutes to pull the fairing, and 5 minutes to put it back on, for the benefit of all that lovely extra space to work.

I did realize once I'd pulled the slave cylinder off that I could have left one of the bolts there. However, by removing it from the cover completly I was able to hang the slave cylinder out of the way, and it let me take the cover out of the way and give it a good cleaning. I certainly appreciate the concerns, though, about having one less bolt and leaving it in place and keeping the clutch fluid off of the paint.

I could not find ANY specifications for the side plate pressing or the size of the rivet diameter. I dug around on the DID web site, and the chain did not come with any. I was really hoping to find them, because I would have gladly measured them. If anyone can provide links to that information, please post up!

In the past I've found that information on a small note contained within the packet the masterlink parts are secured within. A quick check of my stock reveals that none of the masterlink packs I have contains that information, and I can't find it with a quick search online, either. Perhaps another may have a secret source bookmarked. Its pretty ignorant that these suppliers can't provide that information that's important to the safe and appropriate installation/use of their product. Guess I'll stick with my previous....measure the width, match it, and rivet to 110-115% of original pin diameter.

Great write up Rich, as I will be doing this shortly it will be a great help
Is that a Stealth sprocket on the rear? If so how have you found it compared to others?

I have the AFAM's on mine at the moment and they have been good
38 000km so far on the chain and sprockets with fairly sporadic maintenance

Sprocketcenter.com has the AFAM/D.I.D. 530ZVM2 Chain & Sprocket Kit ($208.95US) at ~ $267AUD shipped to Aus and the STEALTH/D.I.D. 530ZVM2 Chain & Sprocket Kit ($254.95US) at ~$316AUD shipped to Aus

Do they seem like good prices? Would you recommend the Stealth for the extra $49AUD?

Very good write up Hobie! Very timely too, I have to replace my chain too. My DID is getting kinked at around 20K miles. I need to consider getting an oiler for longer chain life. Instead of pushing the pin out, last time I just used my 4" grinder to cut right through a links side plates. Just like butter. Oh and lots of good sparks.

I have my original stock rear sprocket somewhere that was on the bike for 20K, and I have the current AFAM steel sprocket that was on for 20K. They don't look too worn. Joe, don't you advise using them again?

Great write-up - I just installed a new DID ZVM2 110-link X-ring chain and 18T steel front sprocket this evening; your pics helped get me motivated!

I just ran it down the street and back and only got into 3rd gear, but man that 18T really makes the Bird feel "right"!

FWIW, my stock 17T sprocket had minimal wear at 59K miles... Do the aftermarket ones wear out faster??!

The aftermarkets I have tried wear about twice as fast. Great write-up!

I just put a stealth sprocket/chain kit on my 97. the Honda service manual has the specification although I cant recall what it is at the moment

Some good tech there. You should get a pressure washer for such a fine write up and photo assay.

Actually the easiest way to change your chain and sprockets is to ride to NEXXT and say "Hey Rich, can you help me out"

I've tried the NEXXT method & it worked great.

I just replaced sprockets with my 2nd chain but did not pull & clean the clutch connecting rod. Should I be worried?

If it wasn't dirty... then no. Due to my Scotoiler.. mine was pretty filthy. The point of cleaning it is to protect the seal between the rod and the motor.

Thanks Rich! Your write up is very helpful BTW

While you have the cover off, do a really thorough job of cleaning the spooge off of the inside cover, clutch rod (as described above) as well as the engine case. A lot of that crud contains bits of abrasives that when warmed up will potentially carry road grit, metal shavings, etc. to crud up the new chain and sprockets. In ADDITION, use this opportunity to de-grunge your control arm and chain guides (after inspecting them for excess wear and tear) as well as your chain guard (tons of crud will accumulate in there, too).
A bike lift and a parts washer simplifies this chore tremendously (Christmas is coming).


BTW, if you are changing to a smaller, 16 tooth sprocket, don't line up the old chain next to the new one for length purposes, you will end up with too many links and not enough adjustment!