Anyone have an idea what it should cost to have the cam chain and tensioner replaced on a '97, along w/ any other parts needed to get into that area? Mine went a few months back and I don't possess the skill or tools to do it myself. A local shop is quoting me about 1k to fix. Appreciate any comments. Thanks...

Why do they think you need a cam chain?
Cam tensioner you can do yourself in about 30 seconds... you can get those from John01xx for like $35 shipped

Joel, the common replacement part available from John is actually a cam chain tensioner lifter. The tensioner itself is a different animal and involves some minor engine work.

The question is a good one, though- why do you think the tensioner and/or chain needs replacement? A grand sounds a little high, but I have no idea what the parts cost.

The bike has been parked for a few months due to this issue. A load noise suddenly developed in the engine which I quickly shut down. The shop I mentioned broke it down and found that the chain was shot and it took out the tensioner as well. At the time it seemed like a lot of money to undertake the work and I did not want to part w/ the $ so I had them put it together for the time being. I am trying to get an idea what something like this would run to be fixed in a shop. Also, anyone from WA w/ a recommendation on a shop?

Thanks....

Something doesn’t sound right. It would take a whole lot of abuse to ruin a cam chain. I think they are trying to screw you. When the tensioner starts to get weak you will here the rattling sound at 3000 to 4000 rpms, Just in this range. Most XX's it right at 3800 rpms. Heck mine is starting to make noise again also. Then again stranger things have happened.

+1

It's the first time I can remember anyone asking about the chain. The XX's engine is built pretty damn strong...

I would so like to get my hands on this, It is not that hard for me to do the repair of the chain and rub guides. If I remember it is just pull the valvecover and the pulser cover at tdc compression on number one. pull the cct and the cams, might as well check the gaps and the guides pull easy as well as the chain.
Hour tops.
Wish you were here.
beers or bottle good blues great time.

I heard nothing that would have told me there was a potential for any problems. Basically I was riding then instantly this loud noise came out of the engine. I was like WTF and shut it down immediately. What I was told from the shop was that the chain went and took out the tensioner w/ it. They are also saying it's around a 7 hr job. This sounds like a lot time for this.

Does Honda have guidelines on how long certain jobs should take, like autos have?

I wish I could find someone in the Seattle area w/ info on a decent person to work on my bike...Texas is just a bit too far to go. :-)

did it die, as in quit running at the same time or did you have to kill it????

My 97' done the same thing at 45000mi. I was riding and all at once it sounded like a diesel. I knew from the wisdom here that the CCT had went out. Two things, I am very tight and mechanically inclined. So I pulled the CCT and took it apart and found that the thin coil spring had broke. About one coil worth of the spring had broke so I bent the end of the spring just like new so it would fit in the slot and not turn thus creating tension. I then made a key to put in the end and wind the spring with tension. It works perfect. I have put about 5K on the bike with no problems and it was a no cost fix but it does take some mechanical ability. I just thought I would share my experience.

PS I believe all you need is a CCT and nothing else. The dealer is trying to take serious advantage of you.


Mike

My CCT just started rattling last week too. '99 with 43,xxx miles. Get a hold of John's Bike Bits. CCT is around $36. Two bolt install. If that does not fix it, you may have bigger problems. But, at least you know it is not the CCT this way and it does not cost 7 hours labor.

No, it did not die, I shut it down. Started once after that to let someone hear the sound.

I'm no expert but I highly doubt the bike would run without the cam chain.

If I recall correctly I was told there was a kink in the chain....

If it's running try this.......... link.......... before you give the dealer a dime!!!!!!!

I currently have 4 CCT's left in stock

I have 15 more on order but expect a two week delay in getting them since this is the time of year when they get ordered the most often.

Well lost my first post, so here goes again

If your motor will run it is not the chain. If it broke your valves would be bent, and it would cost 1500 to fix.

To turn the motor over by hand. There is a plug on the right side that you can remove. It is the one that you open to find top dead center number one. It is right at the center line of the crank. You will have to remove the right faring. It might be better to pull the pulser cover that it is in. You will be able to see the bottom of the chain, and if any thing is in there in the wrong place. Broken parts.
you will see a bolt that is connected to the crank and you can turn it clockwise slowly and see all the chain go by. Check it for kinks or broken links. It will get hard to turn if the plugs are in. Don't turn counter or will unscrew.

I am sure if you can run the motor you need a cct from john and if you can do the above you can change the cct

It seems like this will end up being one of those hard, and expensive lessons. You all provided useful info but I'm sort of caught in a position where I can't exercise your suggestions. My lack of mechanical experience created this situation which I now find myself. As mentioned, I brought my bike in several months back to a local shop who went in and came back saying the chain was kinked and it took out the CCT. I could not part w/ the money so I had them button the bike up but I was told to definitely NOT start it since it was not as it was prior to them going in. What this means I don't know and at the time I didn't think to ask. Lesson learned. W/ that warning in mind, I don't feel comfortable trying a CCT since I have no clue what else should be replaced as a result of the initial recon into the engine. It would be nice to find a shop/mechanic that you just know you can trust. Maybe I'll just break it down w/ the help of a manual and see what happens, or I'll pay the money, or....

I sure do miss my bike!

If you have metric tools, and any mechanical ability, pm me and I will give you my number and with what I have said in the post before will walk you through it.
Stan

Many of you commented that it would be highly unlikely for the cam chain to break so I looked a bit closer at all the paper work obtained from when the bike was checked out. I figured I'd include additional info just as an FYI on this thread. The shop noted the following: Found cam chain to have tight/loose spots from tensioner failure. Recommend replacement of cam chain, CCT and both cam chain guards.

Thanks for all the comments and PM's. I haven't decided which way to proceed, i.e. attempt myself or find a local shop.

-Scott-

As others have suggested, try replacing the CCT. It's easier than changing a spark plug on these motors, costs very little, and even if you have no idea what you're doing should take no more than an hour even if you go about it slowly, especially if you enlist the phone help offered by Stan. I'd be willing to bet most cam chains have tight and loose spots, just as drive chains and most other chains do once they've been in use awhile. It's the nature of the beast IMHO.

+1

Try replacing the tensioner lifter(CCT)first, if that doesn't solve the noise, then buy the actual cam chain tensioner that presses against the chain itself and a spare head gasket and I will volunteer my time to come over and help you swap it if you cover my gas and ferry ride.

Chris

EEP.

My 'Bird has about 44K on it? How often does the CCT need replacement and what are the sure-fire signs?

Do you all replace them at a set interval as a matter of preventative maintenance or do you wait for the sound of it starting to fail.

Also, if you go by sound, how long from the time you hear it before it's toast?

I replied to your PM

Ride the Bird and forget about the CCT !!

In order to put closure on this thread and for the sake of posterity, here was the outcome. Brief history: I was riding the XX when instantly a loud tapping began. The bike was brought to local shop (MaxRPM in Bremerton, WA) and their diagnosis was a kinked cam chain due to a faulty CCT. No work was performed due to that I felt the quote was too high.

I then began this thread for suggestions and it was largely universal that the CCT was likely the culprit. Through bribery and promises of women, I was able to lure some list members, including Chris (CAPPEL)", and Noreen (Kuulei) & Vern (haWHYnXX), to the home of TOXXIC (Tim) who has a nice-n-toasty garage.

What I believe is called the pulser cover was initially removed. There was no tension at all on the CCT. The cam chain was inspected for any damage and it looked fine. The new CCT (from John) was installed. It was decided that we'd button the bike back up, turn her over and see what happens. The moment of truth arrives and...and...and a dead battery put things off until we could liberate one from Tim's XX. The bike had not been started in over 6 months but she came to life quickly and, more importantly, quietly. I've since charged the battery but am waiting to take the bike out to ensure all is well until the rain passes.

In order to retain at least a thread of hope in mankind, I’ve forced myself to believe that the shop just honestly made a mistake and was not purposely fleecing me. Tim made a poignant comment about this when he said that the shop likely has little experience w/ the Blackbird and could have unknowingly thought the cam chain had in fact went out whereas on the Blackbird site you have hundreds of people w/ intimate knowledge of this machine.

Lastly, thanks to all who provided input and especially to Tim, Chris, Vern and Noreen for offering up part of their weekend. You guys are awesome!

-Scott-

Great news, and sounds to me like a mini meet happnin.

I tell you it was the most XX's I have seen together in WA. Even though not all bikes were there, between 5 riders there was a total of 7 XX's and other bikes plus one gay MP3. Tim even did a nice short burnout with. He is so buying me a new rear tire! He was grinnning ear to ear!

I hope somebody did not forget to record this

Excellenty info...let us know what you decide.

I would put a CCT in it !!!

(It takes all of 5 minutes...)

Try a CCT!

All of 5 minutes work...

OK guys I am trying to figure this out so please be gentle:) I jus got a XX and it rattles as stated at exactly 3,500-4,000.

Is it very bad to run the bike like this if it is the CCT?
Also can anyone point be to the forum that has a detailed install on the part. I jsut did a full tune up on the bike so the bike and I are getting to know one another. Oh i am not very mecahnically incline.

Should I just get rid of the bike. I bought the bike planning and I say planning of not putting too much money in it from the get go if you know what i mean.

Thank you very much in advance.
Greg

Ten mins even for you

I have them in stock for $36.00 delivered in the States or $44.00 International

OK, now is this the problem and any directions?
Also can I ride it for awhile with this being the issue?




OK, now is this the problem and any directions?
Also can I ride it for awhile with this being the issue?

If you only hear the noise in a limited range you are probably still good for awhile. Get the part ordered and it take 10 minutes to swap the part, just two bolts for the CCT and a few more to pull the right lower plastic.

directions or pictures?

googus you are making this out to be something that it is Not.

As was said, it is a 10 minute job of which 8 minutes is the removal and replacement of the right lower fairing panel.

the only trick in the whole deal is to not let your curiosity get the best of you and force you to remove the retainer pin
before the CCT is installed !!!!

here is a link with pictures for the installation

CCT Installation Link Click Here

You don't even have to remove the right lower fairing. You only have to remove the one bolt on that pannel the one closest to the CCT.

very true if you know which bolt is the correct one.