http://www.mototuneusa.com/

Ok. So i might assume that the engine design and technology has evolved, but the owner's manuals didn't ? :roll:

It might be the best break-in method, but not for my engines.

I'm one old-fashioned guy, who has the strange ideia that the engineers that develop hi-performance and hi-reliability engines in Honda (and all the other major brands) should know a little bit about the best method for break-in an engine, but...i might be wrong !

Maybe by "full throttle starts" they mean don't hit the starter button with the throttle pegged? :wink: If you do, just make sure the kickstand is up and the bike is in gear. :shock:

"avoid rapid acceleration"...........yeah, like that's avoidable. :roll:

I tend to agree with the Moto Man. It's all about heat cycling. Ask any dirt bike rider who (re)builds their own topend what 'break in' method they use..

I've only had experience with one car that I know was broken-in according to the traditional [baby it for 1,500 miles] method. The motor in that Toyota expired at 65k miles.

-Pace

What about other things like transmission gears and camshaft lobes?

My bad. My car utilizes a cast iron block and liners with aluminum pistons and rods, so I was mistakenly speaking within that context.

But on the topic of alloy motocycle top ends: Nikasil plating forms a very hard surface. Wouldn't this essentially prolong the period in which you can successfully seat the rings. The cross hatching is still clearly visible in my dirtbike cylinder liner.

-Pace

That's something that mechanics always told NOT to do !
I've been told by more than one mechanic that the oil that comes on the engine from factory has some special additives that help in the run-in period... :headscratch:



The service manual says " Recommended Oil: HONDA GN-4 4 stoke oil or equivalent motor oil; API service specification SF or SG; Viscosity 10-40W" and a chart to use other viscosity values depending on the average temperature. I don't have it here with me, but from what i remember, i can almost bet that the Portuguese Honda manual doesn't even talk about Honda Pro Oil. It depends on the year, it was Shell, then Castrol, currently Galp...



It may say that on the USA owner's manual, but it doesn't say anything about it on the Portuguese one, and you can see the use of a soft brush to help cleaning the chain on Honda's service manual.

What i'm trying to say is that there are things that Honda recommends (but says that it doesn't have to be exactly like that), while there are other things that Honda almost 'warns' you about.
Running-in is one of them, and they 'warn' us to avoid rapid acceleration and to keep it below a certain r.p.m. until a certain mileage has been reached.

Personally, i find it very hard to believe that any modern engine would break just because it was ridden hard since the first day.
I've always heard a few people saying that a hard running-in would give more horse-power...and i'm not saying that it won't.
My only concern is the premature wear out of the engine...but i admit that i might have a wrong conception, given by the manufacters owners manuals.

That's why i bought a second hand 'XX, so i don't have to worry myself with running-in :wink:

I chat with Elton Fish of EFR racing today the Blackbird does not have NIKASIL plating. It has sleeves cast into the block.
If you have your bike bored 2 mm over there is no replating involved.

I have found where some manufacturers are plating cast iron sleeves so it may still have nikasil coating but it's not the same as an aluminium cylinder wall with nikasil coating.
I have a call into Honda central via local shop set for monday should settle it then.

The bird has steel liners that are cast into the block.
They are nonremoveable.
This comes from Honda.