Thanks to Redbird for the photo and AirborneXX for the writeup!
1. Put bike on the center stand.
2. Remove gas tank.
3. Loosen the nut that holds the upper shock mount.
This nut is sometimes very tight and you may have to grind the plastic from the inner fender that surrounds the nut in order to get a good grip on the nut. Loosen the nut until the rear tire touches ground.
4. I used 7/16" flat washers, you will need 3 or 4 and measure the thickness until you get enough to make 6mm. Cut out enough of the washers so they will slip around the shock bolt, in a C shape.
5. Put them between the upper shock mount and the frame. This space will open up as you loosen the nut.
6. Tighten nut reassemble bike and enjoy!
* Photo is from the rear of the bike looking forward, the black you see in the background is the battery box
Full Version: HOW-TO: Shim The Rear Shock
2) Removing the tank is probably overkill. I found propping up the rear of the tank was more than sufficient.
3) I wouldn't grind any plastic. If the nut is too tight you can pry up that plastic tab a bit and slide an open end wrench underneath it to break the nut loose.
4) Another option is to remove the lower shock mount bolt and slide the entire shock assembly down far enough to slide whole washers over the bolt. More work, but no worries about those slotted washers working loose.
6) I'd suggest some sort of thread locker when reassembling. The locking tabs on the nut will have less thread to grab onto. Mine loosed up a bit after the initial mod. Loc-tite, done.
* Photo is from the front of the bike looking rearward. The black in the background is indeed the battery box.
3) I wouldn't grind any plastic. If the nut is too tight you can pry up that plastic tab a bit and slide an open end wrench underneath it to break the nut loose.
4) Another option is to remove the lower shock mount bolt and slide the entire shock assembly down far enough to slide whole washers over the bolt. More work, but no worries about those slotted washers working loose.
6) I'd suggest some sort of thread locker when reassembling. The locking tabs on the nut will have less thread to grab onto. Mine loosed up a bit after the initial mod. Loc-tite, done.
* Photo is from the front of the bike looking rearward. The black in the background is indeed the battery box.
QUOTE(Redbird @ Dec 15 2006, 08:50 AM) 
2) Removing the tank is probably overkill. I found propping up the rear of the tank was more than sufficient.
+1 When I recently put in a 900RR shock, 1100lb spring and 6mm shim I just removed the seat and propped up the tank with the stock 900RR spring
3) I wouldn't grind any plastic. If the nut is too tight you can pry up that plastic tab a bit and slide an open end wrench underneath it to break the nut loose.
+1 I did the same - lifted up the plastic surrounding the nut - I did not even disconnect the battery :icon_shhh:
4) Another option is to remove the lower shock mount bolt and slide the entire shock assembly down far enough to slide whole washers over the bolt. More work, but no worries about those slotted washers working loose.
+1 on the full washers - One of the guy's on Ozblackbird here in Aus actually got some stepped 10mm-6mm aluminium plates made up with a hole to shim the shock and it also stops the shock from twisting
6) I'd suggest some sort of thread locker when reassembling. The locking tabs on the nut will have less thread to grab onto. Mine loosed up a bit after the initial mod. Loc-tite, done.
+1 Yeah I put Loctite on mine even though the nut seemed to have plenty of thread to bite on and with the stepped shim there should be less likelyhood of movement and the nut loosening
* Photo is from the front of the bike looking rearward. The black in the background is indeed the battery box.
Correct tank removal is not necessary, but mine is a carbed bike and in about 10 seconds after removing the bolts I can have the lines disconnected and have the tank safely out of my way.
Also after the initial write up I realized that with a couple of extra minutes of work the whole shock can be removed and whole washers can be installed. This is also a good time to clean the linkage and lube the bearings.
Also after the initial write up I realized that with a couple of extra minutes of work the whole shock can be removed and whole washers can be installed. This is also a good time to clean the linkage and lube the bearings.
QUOTE
.....mine is a carbed bike and in about 10 seconds after removing the bolts I can have the lines disconnected and have the tank safely out of my way.
Hell, if it's that easy, I would have pulled it, too. The FI models are a royal PITA.
I did the shim recently, big improvement in handling. Thanks for writing up.
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