I finally got around to installing my Datel Voltmeter this afternoon.

Later when I went for a ride, I found that the Datel never went above 13.6 at highway speeds.

When I turned on my bright lights, the reading dipped to 13.4

When I turned on my 55W PIAAs, the reading also dipped to 13.4

When I turned on the high beam and the PIAAs, the reading dipped to around 12.6

I thought that I read somewhere that the normal voltage reading for the XX is around 14.4 volts.

The positive lead is soldered to the low beam wiring terminal and the ground is bolted directly to the frame. Would it make a difference if the positive was wired directly to the battery?

What's the correct voltage for the XX at 4,000 rpm?

You need to wire directly to battery. The voltage is being stepped down from the headlight and other lights. You want to know how much juice the batt. is getting not the headlights.

As soon as you take it above idle you should see the voltage rise to around 14 if you have the stock reg/rec.

YEP

Wired the Datel directly to the battery and the voltage is 14.4 - 14.5

Hopefully, it doesn't draw much juice as it's now on 100% of the time. LOL

With my limited experience with the charging system I think what your experiencing is OK. One of the experts may disagree. Which is quite alright as there are a lot of smart lads out there. :bike:

Bill....WE NEED A PICTURE of your install !!!! NOW ! :lol:

Dave

http://www.superblackbird.com/images/mods/...point4volts.jpg

Here's a photo of Warchild's dash. I did mine the same way except my Datel is on the right side instead of the left.

I attached it to the top of the dash with velcro.

The ground wire is connected to the frame at one of the places that became available after I de-linked the brakes and removed the CBS hardware.

The hot wire is routed under the tank on the inside of the frame and is connected directly to the positive side of the battery.

All wires are SOLDERED, run inside of plastic looming and are zip-tied at various places on the way to the battery.

I don't think that the Datel draws enough juice to even worry about but I might end up adding an inline switch below the seat so that I can turn it off when I'm not riding. Then again... maybe I won't bother.

<sigh> I think that I'd have to agree. :oops:

Bill-

Ya really need your aux fuse panel to be relay-switched. Then you can pull the datel sense lead from there, and the voltage drop will be negligible.

I wouldn't recommend running the datel all the time. Even though it's not much of a draw, it's ANOTHER draw, and it'll discharge your battery over time when you least expect it. Guaranteed.

$5 of parts, swing on down and I'll do it for you.

It is relay-switched. I'll make the change.

Thanks for the advice.