Pics to follow, and I will elaborate, but my setup is:

TSR front bracket for stock fork-mounted master cylinder removal.
Galfer dual line kit
CB400SF brake master cylinder / F4i brake lever
Stock calipers drilled, front and rear, to connect middle piston to outers.
Plugs in all three calipers for middle piston.
Single stock rear brake line

Unrelated:
Carbone Lorraine brake pads, front and rear.

Post yours.

Exact same setup with the following exceptions
Lines made locally with Ti colored jackets
2 line rear setup.

321ignition de-link bracket.
BSR lines (came with the 321 kit)
CB400SF brake master cylinder and lever (all you need is the perch. I swapped actual levers as mine is powdercoated black)
Drilled and plugged front calipers, rear is stock run on one line. (only using outer two pistons, it's plenty, IMO)

EBC HH on all three calipers.

I'll get some more photos up later today.


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In this photo the wire passes through the passage you're drilling into-

Thanks for the pics.
Just for a little further explanation...
The center caliper bore is not as deep as the side ones. If you look into the bores on either side, you cann see the hole(passage) where the fluid enters the side bores...these 2 holes are in line and the passage runs under the center bore. I just lined up the side passages and drilled a hole in the center bore to connect to the passage underneath.
I had to special order the socket head bolts and cut them shorter, to use as plugs for the now not needed banjo connection point on the caliper...using left over washers from the delink.

De-link bracket and Ti bolt plugging original inlet for center piston-



CB400SF brake master cylinder. The only difference in appearance from stock is that threaded tab for a mirror on the right side-

10mm x 1.25 (fine). Can't recall for sure, but I believe it needs to be <15mm in length.

I'll see if I can find a link. I looked at so many places for one short enough I can't remember where I finally ordered from. I did end up having to cut them down, though.

They look like the ones from Yoyodyne, they make one that's 20mm long.

www.yoyodyneti.com

J.

After you drill the rear caliper, the hard part is bleeding it completely of air!

With the hole drilled in the position shown you have to remov and manually rotate the caliper to get all of the air out. When the brake pistone are facing the ground, all of the air in the center bore will go to the top and will evacuate throught he hole.

Just something to keep in mind when bleeding the system.

That mirror mount looks like a marvelous place for a new FMP. (Farkle Mounting Point)

Same thing occured to me the second I saw it. Sadly, it comes fairly close to the windscreen at full left lock, not much would fit in the space available.

In my experience, not any different than stock. Still use both bleeders.

J.

ok so whats the cheapest way to delink the bird....the way Red is or the 321kit?

Better?





Travis, the 321igniton kit works great, but if you source a bracket somewhere else or use the fork mounted master cylinder itself, you can pretty much de-link for the cost of a couple brake lines and possibly a new front master.

If I had it to do over again my setup would be homebrew.

ok so a few lines and a new master cylinder....ok the search for parts is on....is a bracket kinda easy to make most likely?

A guy I used to be built one from aluminum that was damn near the TSR mount, and he built it for around 60 bucks, paying for waterjetting, milling and anodizing. I recall he said he did batch it with some pair valve covers, so the anodizing could be more expensive.

Personally, if I didn't have access to the TSR bling, I'd just do the double bolt method. It's free.

Then you have the lines, and of course the master.

I will probably be selling the TSR bracket at some point this spring.

J.

ok so what exactly is the doule bolt method....is there a thread i can just go through...theres a million delink thread to sort through

As far as the double bolt method, I guess I was wrong in calling it that. It's really a double nut or more accurately, jam nut. Redbird knows more, I think. Someone on here's done it, but I can't remember who. I thought it was Porter, but obviously it's not.

Maybe Tim knows, or maybe the mystery man will pipe up.

Whohoo! Page 2!

J.

Jeff (Byrdman) did it.

It involved disassembling the master and putting a solid bolt inside to make it rigid, I believe. He'll have details.


For the record, I may actually moderate a bit in this thread. If we can manage to keep on topic and cover common delinking question without going to 18 pages this one might be worth saving in the important and useful threads section when we're done.

Good idea, J.

ok looked at my bike this morning...can you just run 2 lines from the reservoir/master cylinder to the 2 front calipers and then just a single line from the rear reservoir/master cylinder to the rear caliper? then just pull all the factory lines off the bike....if not what am i missing.....


also....the 600rr....tlr and few other bikes use a 10x22 banjo bolt.....so could i find a cheap dual line set from one of these bikes to replace the front lines??? if not why not..

J. I did a hand drawing with dimensions of the TSR bracket and had it tranfered to AutoCad. I have that .dwg file here. I was going to get with Rickrad to make the bracket and offer a kit, but we never did . I maybe a few thousands off here or there as I measured with a dial caliper but it should be close.
You interested in trying it out?
I also have the line lengths around here somewhere

Yes, you've got the idea.

ok so will a 2 line kit of any bike that uses 10x22 banjo bolts work then....

No. There's the angle of the banjo fittings and the length of the line to consider. If you look at your bike you'll notice that most of the banjo fittings have a bit of a kink to them. Wrong angle or no angle will complicate the fitting or render it impossible.

Stick with lines made for the XX, or customs.

If somone would be willing to let me use their bike for a while..... (RANDY) I can build a brake line kit front and rear with correct angle banjo fittings and all necessary hardware.

Mike
CTSmoto

Lemme know when you want it, OK! 8)

so how hard is it to bleed the brakes when you drill the front calipers? off all day tomorrow and thinkin of having bike day

It's not as easy as a "normal" setup, but it's way easier than bleeding the LBS.

Have you got lines already?

pmed jeff a time or two...told me to bolt the second master cylinder ( left side sittin on the bike right?) open and then plug the extra ports and how to remove the one rear line.

not really sure how to bolt the cylinder open though

Hey Travis,

Pull the secondary master cylinder off the fork leg. Open it up and you will find a simple plunger and a spring. The distance from the end of the plunger to the end of the master cylinder body is the length of socket head capscrew you need. Fit the capscrew and re-install the master cylinder endcap.

This will render the master cylinder useless and will effectively turn it into a solid link. The front caliper then won't be able to rotate forward when the brakes are applied.

I have this done to my CB750 cafe racer and if you realy need a picture, I can tear it apart and show you. :wink: