Obviously I drain out the old oil but the bike will "drip" oil into the pan seemingly forever after the majority is out. Was doing some work inside for about an hour so just let the bike drain/drip w/the plug and filter removed. After an hour, no dripping. Do most of y'all wait until no more dripping or just refill after 15 min or so?

BTW....I always refill w/4 qts never 4.1 like the manual says and I don't torque the plug. I just tighten it pretty well......always done it this way since my torque wrench is effed up.

Thx,
Barry

about a minute.

till its empty?

Properly place oil drain pan
Remove drain plug
Crack open a cold beer beer and finish
Button 'er up
Move oil drain pan to under filter
Remove filter
Crack open a beer and finish
Remove oil drain pan,
Install new filter
Remove oil fill plug
Empty gallon of oil
Bungee gallon of oil so can drain
Crack open a beer and finish
Cleanup
Crack open a beer and congrat myself on another job well done

+1 8)

Anything else is just anal :lol:

Whadda ya mean... drain the oil? :?

In the cars I take the plug out, Check the rest of the fluids, tire pressures, drink a beer, and lube the hinges. By then it's drained enough.

On the bikes I have a pan that allows me to drain the oil pan and remove the filter at the same time. While that's dripping I wipe the bike down with Honda polish while drinking a beer.

i think i am gonna crack open a beer myself after that one....

At least six days.

I drain it until I get within .01 Imp/Oz of what I put in. I use a calibrated scale and always change it when the Barometric pressure is falling. Unless it's a Leap Year.

...or a blue moon :wink:

I got yer Moon :moon:

Warm the bike up before hand, then shut it down, wait 15 minutes for oil to collect in pan, then drain. Wil get a better drain that way with the hotter oil. As far as time, no more than 10 minutes is necessary. As said, pop the plug, then go do something else like check fluids or get drunk, then come back to it. If you watch it drain it takes longer.

When I come home, I'll let it cool down alittle and take the plug out. I put the new oil filter on the seat and go in the house. The next day, I take the other bike to work. When I come home, I finish the oil change. I guess you can think of why I put the filter on the seat?

Same reason I put a Post-it on the speedometer, "No Oil."

Cause you like to sit on big round black things?

30 minutes or however long it take to convince the wife semen is good for her sore throat.. :twisted:

I usually let it sit for maybe 10-15 minutes after I get home from work and pull the plug...

Get new oil filter ready, fill out UOI card, clean up some stuff around the garage, you know... about 10 minutes...

I then tip the bike to both sides to try and get pools out of places in the head and such, then let it sit until it is pretty well done dripping again (10 minutes or so), which is usually how long it takes me to clean my headlight, taillight and turn signals, and lube the chain, and change the oil filter.

Then I button it back up, put oil in it, start it up, check for leaks, and we're off...

Mike

Until gravity has done its thing :roll: Some silly boys on this forum :)

Yeah.......usually I wait about 15 min but this time it was an hour b/c I was distracted doing something but no dripping after 1 hour but doubt I'll wait that long again intentionally.

Been using Castrol syntec non-energing conserving 10W-40 the last 2 oil changes. XX runs good on this stuff! 8)

Isn't this the same as asking how many shakes before you put your Johnson awayz?

Jeez, I thought the guys on the BMWST board were anal.
:lol:

Something like this? :D

If I remember correctly, Airborne knows a little something about the perils of leaning the bike side to side in the garage...... :D

So why exactly do you run the bike before changing the oil?

Cause it makes the oil all warm and runny, easing the task of getting it out of the motor.

'Sides, hot oil coating the back of your hand as you pull the plug is a character builder. Especially if your lying on your back and it runs clear up to your elbow and you bang your head on the foot peg trying to get out of the way. DAMHIK. Anyone who can avoid a string of profanity under those conditions has my vote for Pope, if not sainthood.

Actually, I don't know why people warm the bike up if they're not doing a UOI... If it's cold, all the oil is already down in the pan anyway, although it may take a bit longer to drain out of the pan when it's cold, but there is more oil drained down from the top end when it's cold too, which is why I usually let my oil drain for quite awhile if it's hot when I change it...

Mike

Bingo. All the oil that's gonna drain from the top of the engine is already down there. I've measured the difference...changing the drain pan after a minute. The average amount more that I get by waiting an hour instead of a minute is 30cc. That's 0.03125 quarts more I can drain out than if I closed up after my usual minute.

Honda specifies 4.1 US quarts with an oil filter change, and 4.9 US quarts after a teardown. That intimates that Honda, the manufacturer, feels that 8 tenths of a quart of oil is retained in the engine when the oil and filter are changed versus when all the oil is washed from the parts during a complete teardown.

0.03 gts is not a significant enough part of 0.8 qts for me to worry about. Draining that additional amount will not impact the degradation (or whatever you care to call it) of the new oil by the old oil retained in the engine. And if one has concerns about contaminents settling out of the oil onto the sump floor and not being drained out (because they haven't been circulated and mixed up with the oil), then one really doesn't know how oil works, or has been using their oil for quite a few thousand miles more than was ever intended.

I guess with those facts then it's not much of an advantage to warm up the bike. Never looked into the numbers, I just also never minded going for a spirited pre-change warmup spin. ;)

After draining the oil for 45 minutes in a humidity and temparture controlled garage (68 degrees, 17%-23% humidity) I remove the engine crack the case and clean the inside with a SOFT toothbrush. The Braun electric is very good for this. Working my way through the engine, I then use a hose cleaner I purchased from a fish store to clean the inside of all the applicable hoses.

Once everything is clean, I put a LIGHT film of oil on all surfaces prior to re-assembly. You can use your bare finger for this, just of course be sure you wash ALL the dirty oil off before hand and clean using a MILD soap and rinse and dry your hands THOROUGHLY prior to starting the application. Some people use latex gloves for this part, but I think that's just being anal.

Anyway, using this procedure I have had over 6,000 miles of trouble free useage of my engine.

How do you address the oil cooler? I've found that Brazilian fire-ants actually eat the oil, and if you pour them into the cooler, its perfectly clean. Just don't pour too many in, or they think its a nest and stay in there instead of bringing the oil out for the colony.

Be sure to count them all, and get them all out. Their byproduct of digestion is an acid, of course, and can eat through aluminum in a few hours.

What kind of oil do you guys use?

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

:kickntheballs:

Man! I thought I was the only one who does this! Here's a tip, when you drop them into the cooler, just make sure the queen is not with them and they will not nest. I used to count them as well until I spent four days looking for 7 of them (searched the cooler, the garage, it was a nightmare). Finally did some more research and found that the little bastards are cannibalistic in the right environment! Argh! Well, now I just use a light power vaccum to clean out any stragglers and have not had any problems.

Filtered air?

Ok, that does it, i'm changing my procedure. Drain the oil when cold and have 2 beers (vs. 1) to compensate for the extra drain time. Avoids hot oil and headers too.

Question, do you have to compensate for drain time based on oil weight and type (e.g. synthetic vs. mineral, 5w-40 vs. 15w-50, etc.)?

When I change my oil, I try to suck every last drop of oil from the pan.
Heating the motor up first is a bad idea cause it could burn your lips.

Group buy on the Brazilian fire ants???

Honestly, I just wait until there's a second or so between drips... That's when I button it up...

Mike

The only reason I do is....

too stir up any of the possible metal particulates that may have fallen out of suspention.
I'm talking about the supper little shit that passes through you oil filter.

I figure the more of it I can get out, the better. Why not... can't hurt.

Plus I like the warm-up ride,

Plus I'm never in a hurry when I'm servicing my bike.... I enjoy doing maintenance. So I'll let it drain for how ever long it takes for me to do something else..... like checking the air pressure, or lubing the Lever pivot points, etc.