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cleggben
I live in Dubai and am sick and tired of trying to get hold of Castrol GPS semi synthetic API sg 10w40.
I simply cannot get a semi synthetic oil out here, I have tried and tried , Shell , Mobil, Castrol etc etc etc.
I am told adamantly NOT to use FULLY SYTHETIC. Does it really matter?



HELP!!
RodeRash
no
rockmeupto125
Yes, it does, and no it doesn't. The technical difference between synth and semi-synth DOES matter, and it DOESN'T matter what you use in your XX.

#1. There is a big difference between synthetic and semi-synthetic. Basically, semi-synthetic is synthetic with "real" oil poured into it...which makes it NO LONGER SYNTHETIC. They do that so companies can charge more for having "synthetic" in the product name. Hey...they are supplying a consumer demand. Uninformed/miseducated consumers are the target for this marketing.

#2. It doesn't matter if you use synthetic or real oil in your XX. The clutch and transmission debris will break the oil down and pollute it long before you reach the mileage that synthetic starts to become an advantage.

People all over the world use both real and synthetic oil in the XX without problems. However, there's no expert on oiling for the street used XX. Some of the drag race guys may be considered oiling experts on short use high output XX motors, but I don't think there is anyone actively engaged in high mileage street use research of oils in the XX engine. So there are no experts. Whoever told you adamently NOT to use full synthetic is talking out their ass, because they're not an expert.

I'm not an expert either, but I've had no problems in 40k miles of fully synthetic, nor any problems with 115k miles of "real" oil. As a non-expert, I suggest you change your oil every 3-5 thousand miles, and replace it with clean oil. If you can't change your oil, then change your filter. The thing is, experts did BUILD your motor. :wink:
cleggben
Cheers

My thoughts too , but it was Honda himself that told me this?

Anyway Screw him! Sythetic it is then
rockmeupto125
If Soichiro Honda dropped out of the clouds and told me not to use full synthetic, I'd probably do what he said.

But if some mechanic at a dealer told me so, I highly doubt it. While not experts, I think that most of the people here have more experience with an XX than nearly any dealer.

One thing is, don't tell them you are using full synthetic, or any failure on your motorcycle, from chain tension to front headstock bearings will be blamed on using synthetic. :wink:
blackhawkxx
QUOTE
If Soichiro Honda dropped out of the clouds and told me not to use full synthetic, I'd probably do what he said.  

:lol: Only Joe would know how to spell Mr. Honda's name.
cleggben
From the IXXRA web site

Quote
If your bike has been Honda serviced previously, then you will have been running mineral oil for the past 8,000miles on your bike. This means that your engine will be in superb condition and bedded in perfectly. To be honest, at this stage the choice is up to you. Most oils today have far better lubricating properties than your engine requires anyway. You can still opt for mineral, but lots of people opt for SEMI-SYNTHETIC at this stage. Reason is that your engine has already been ran in so a little better lubricating performance at this stage really cannot harm anything at all. Either way, do NOT use FULLY SYNTHETIC.
unquote
rockmeupto125
LOL....and I know quite well the guy that wrote that.

My statement stands.
cleggben
Good man

Nice to have talked.

Thanks for all your help

I'm out tommorow to but new filter and Synthetic oil

Ben
Clinton Horn
Of all the vehicles I have ever owned, only one was done in by an oil related failure. I had purchased it used and I did not know its service history. The pan was full of sludge and clogged the pickup screen.
I run Rotella Syn because it is affordable and available. I will echo others here. Oil is a " blind" purchase. Your decision is based on what you read, hear, and previous experience. My XX is entertainment. I do not stress it as a competition motor might, but I am not going to tear it down every week to replace parts either. In that regard, I believe the experience of real world use is most reliable for recreational users. There was an interesting article In Bike about a courrier in UK that had put 400,000 miles on a first generation Bird and was on his way to wearing out a second. He changed oil every 3,000 miles with "car oil" but believed in Honda filters.
I will wager that the oil you use is much more important to you than the motor. If one oil was vastly inferior to others, that mfg. would soon be sued out of existance right here in the good ol' litigious USA. As for endorsements, those racing enterprises would sell their mother for cash. The amount of wear on a racing motor is incredible. I would be inclined to think that the most humble grocery store oil would last 500 miles or 9 seconds. Flame away with facts not hear-say.
Redbird
QUOTE
I will wager that the oil you use is much more important to you than the motor.


:clap:
cleggben
You wont belive this

I can't get 10W40??

Gievn up now, settled for Shell Advance 15W50 fully Synthetic, If the bike drops to bits I'll let you know.

Thanks for all the advice though.
Stay sunny side up ya all

Cheers
Ben :whogives: Brit
chaserkeywest
Better of with 15/50 in Dubri anyway!

I put Syn in everything { after 5-6000 break in }

Many Miles later you'll have very little wear and high compression.
Justin
most important thing about oil is changing it .. I don't care if you use natural or synthetic. FWIW you can take the oil out of an XX at 8k and send it to a lab to be tested, and it will still have more than enough lubriscosity for any engine. Filter on the other hand won't. I play it safe and swap the oil and filter at 4k intervals.

P.S. I use old fashioned oil myself.
gharknes
I cannot confirm this until I change my oil again but after having changed to Fully Synthetic oil (motul 10W40) my gear change seems to have deteriorated dramatically, clonking serverly, very smooth when cold, seems to get worse as it warms up, I live in hot climate.
Red J
Average temperatures don't get below 11°C (~50°F) and reach 41°C (~105°F) in Dubai, U.A.E. While I would run dino oil in a watercooled sportbike there, if you run it hard at all, I'd run synthetic. Watercooled engines see more stable temperatures than oil/air cooled engines, but the oil is still responsible for removing a good amount of heat, from a source of high heat.

I agree with the sentiment that the owner cares more about the oil than the bike, but the bike will care at elevated temperatures. The bike's motor is expensive, much more so than oil, and that alone is the biggest reason why I care about the oil more than my bike does.

I run a high dollar chain, because it means longer intervals for me between changes. I use good gasoline and run cleaners regularly because they're documented to keep the top end clean and valve deposits in check. I run synthetic oil because I believe they're better for the engine, certainly more so than their cost increase over dino oil.

I don't fret about it, I just run what I feel comfortable with. I don't fret about what anyone else runs in their stuff either, since 1.) Not my money or bike and 2.) It's working for them.

J.
shovelstrokeed
Synthetic oils will hold up to heat cycling and higher heats better than mineral based oils but the more important thing is to change your oil regularly.

Your information source who told you not to use synthetic is talking out his ass. Lots of urban myth floating around about slipping clutches and the like. Mostly bullshit except for certain competition needs such as drag racing.

Put in whatever you feel comfortable with and enjoy the bike.
gharknes
you guys not see my post ?


i really do think FS can cause gearchange problems, I have also read this on other xx sites, semi or mineral is most likely more than enough for most "on road" none turbo engines, i competed in motor sport for many years and had a turbo engine which always got FS oil, if Honda recommend mineral or semi why use FS ?
shovelstrokeed
QUOTE(gharknes)
you guys not see my post ?


i really do think FS can cause gearchange problems, I have also read this on other xx sites, semi or mineral is most likely more than enough for most "on road" none turbo engines, i competed in motor sport for many years and had a turbo engine which always got FS oil, if Honda recommend mineral or semi why use FS ?


And, it's one man's opinion. There is more bullshit floating around the net on this topic or those like it than anything I have ever run into before.

Now, on to serious matters, what air pressure should I run in my tires?
Hobicus
Bacon Grease.

When you're riding in a group, everyone behind you will get hungry.


It's great.
tomek
I collect used extra virgin olive oil that we use for cooking.When 1 gallon container is full then I use it for oil change on XX.
Basically how often I change oil depends how much cooking we do.
80 K miles with this method,no probs so far.
gharknes
QUOTE
Now, on to serious matters, what air pressure should I run in my tires?


Honda book says 42 psi front and back I believe, I run 42psi front and back
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