The purpose of this thread is 2 fold.

1. I did an OIL search in the garage section and went completely back through all the records to 2003. I found shit... but it was just that crap about nothin. Most all of the Oil threads between here and there all state that nobody wants to start another OIL FLAME WAR...

Well we Need to! It's been to long that a mass of good information has been posted on this subject.

2. I need to change my oil, and for the last 2 years I've been useing Mobil 1, well oil chemestry, development, and their ingredients have all changed in the last 2 years. Even Mobil one has changed. So it's time.

I had a read somewhere on the new Valvoline... but I lost it.

So Flame on!

Post up!
I want to read the lastest comparision charts availiable, that anybody has found.

OH ya... anybody been running any oil with Moly in it ? Haveing any problems ?

You're not all getting Old on me now are you? (Stuck in the same old rut, useing nothing but your tried and true!)

I use Castrol Gtx 10w 40. The only draw back is it caused the levees to break in New Orleans

I use Honda HP4 (Gold Bottle) synth blend, bike runs cooler and shifts smoother.

Todd

Mobil 1 15-50 ....always hot here or hotter!

I use Rotella T Synth around $13.00 per gallon at walmart

+1

That's what's gone into mine the last 2 oil changes.

Still using Mobil 1 15w50.

I use Motul 5100 (I think, it's the synth blend) 10W-40. 3 oil changes since the Honda standard GN4. No problems.

Whatever is on sale. I generally go 2-3K with Dino oil and 4-5K with the plastic stuff. Stay away from Canola, it makes you hungry when things heat up, mmmmmm that smell :P

Amsoil 10w40. Works good.

AH... No... I don't purchase products solely on the value of the SALE price.

I go for the Best performance for the Money. All around.

Hmmm lots to think about here...

I see nobody has posted any of those great Oil analysis Links yet. I always like to read those. How many ppm of what ingredients and all.

Well maybe tommorrow.

Same here, I also get WIX filters for like $5 at work.

I think maybe you'll find that some of us don't really give a shit about Parts/Million and all the technical stuff. Others would go out and find their own links to that stuff rather than expect someone to do it for them. I for one am a Sheep. If the smart guys here say Mobil 1 and Rotella Syn are good oils, I use them. Rotella when it's colder outside and Mobil 1 when it heats up. I change my oil every 5K with either one. I think thats fine. As far as I'm concerned those 2 do give me the "Best performance for the Money. All around." I think MCN came up with the a similar conclusion. BAAAA BAAAAA. Are you my DAAAAAAdy?

Peace Bro. Next week ask about WD-40.

:greenfingers:

+1 I run M1 1550 in ALL my vehicals.

Sean, You switch between Syn & dyno oil? I thought that was not good to do. There is so much miss information out there I could be wrong.

I use Motul 300V, 10W40 for the winter, 15W50 for the summer.
I am changing it just when it starts getting black. :shock:

You can put sand in the Bird and it will still run 100,000 miles.

Yeah, that's what I heard too, something about streaking the cylinder walls or something? Last time I changed the plugs (@22K miles), I borescoped the cylinders, and they looked like brand new. I have switched back and forth a few times now and it seems the Bird is only getting stronger, like it's mutating or something :lol:

Do the same with my dirt bikes, truck, car, lawnmower, etc....

:lol:

I was using Mobil 1 15-50, now using Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5-40 year round. I change it at 5k miles.

I've done my reaserch, I don't think oil problems or wear will be a problem on the XX unless you just never change the oil.

Mobil 1 15w50 in the XX and the MR2, the 24HP Honda V-twin in the mower, the 5HP single in the other mower, and the 17HP Kawasaki V-twin in the other, other mower.

Mobil Delvac in the Landcruisers (cause, they take 9 quarts each.)

Stihl oil in the blower, linetrimmer, chainsaws.

Motul 800 in the KTM 300 2 smoke.

Campbell Hausfeld in the air compressor.

Boeshield T9 in the spare engines for storage.

Canola in the stir-fry.

OK....

Next question? How many times have you hit a false Neutral using Mobil 1.

I recently got my Dad and a good friend to switch over to M1, and they both immediately started complaining about hitting Neutral.



Well I like knowing the parts/million shit, but I'm not very good at finding it. No I'm horriable at finding info like that. That's why I ask.

And Yes.... I want to know how You feel about your oil. Sheep or not. Do you like the way it feels ? Can you tell ? Do you care ?

How cold does it get in Greece in the winter?

Seems like you should be able to run that 15/50 year-round. I mean your only talking a diference of 5 on the viscosity at start up.

That's because your wearing them out... the looser they get the better they feel.

Until they just start eating oil.

? Does your bird use any oil inbetween oil changes? Mine No... not a drop.

That's bullshit J.

That's just Not right. That Canola is like Artery Killer.

What are you cooking?

Eric, you okay? Don't take what I put in my machines personally bro. I can guarantee I do not care what you put in your bike :lol:

And non of them eat any oil. I drain the oil, pour 4 quarts in, then pour the old stuff in the new bottle(s) and have 4 quarts. It's like magic or something :wink:

And yes, I know the book says 4.1 or 4.2, depending on which manual you have. 4 works for me just fine. You can correct me if it makes you feel better :P

I don't have any problems hitting a false neutral. Bike now has 32k on it and has had M1 for most of its life.
The Triumph has the motorcycle blend of M1 in it now but I think I'll change it to the regular stuff on the next change.

Canola in XX w 5k intervals, then recycle in stir-fry...

I have run dino Delvac and Syn Rotella both and can't tell a bit of difference. I am interested more in shifting at the moment. My bike's got 26000 on it and it feels rougher going from neutral to first. That clunk is starting to get on my nerves. I believe that there is a rubber piece in the motor that slows down the shaft when the clutch is engaged? Mine must be wearing out. Anyone feel that the higher moly oils improve shifting? I know some feel that the Mobile One is better in this department.

If you really want to find out what oil provides the best performance, ask the guy with the suspenders on the scooter in the pub post. I guarantee you that he will find out soon or seize it. I had an S-90 when I was a kid and it coughed up two pistons on gas station oil. People who ride small bore bikes have a real concern / opinion in oil selection. Blackbird owners do not need to give it a second thought (as long as it is full) IMHO.

You have a borescope? Those things are not cheap $$$. What would a cop be doing with a borescope? :lol:

Just a guess. Body cavity searches? :lol:

Massage oil - maybe something like Pikake as women seem to dig it. Some guys are using WD-40 but that's just too expensive for me as I cahnge mine about every 200 miles. :P

You can't call bullshit and not make a suggestion.

I think, actually, we use peanut in the stirfry.

Veggies, mainly. To go with eggrolls.

J.

+2

I was running M1 15/50, but I can't find it anymore. Going to switch to HP4 or Spectro Golden 10/40.

I can't find it either....

at least not at any of the Local Yocals. :?


Maybe I'll throw some Valvoline Syn Power in it.... it's supposed to have over 2000 ppm of Moly in it. Then see if the clutch slips.... :twisted:

Fuck... I just might. Wouldn't be that hard to wash off the Clutch disc with some BrakeClean and slap it back together.








Good point, My bad, I'll have to go home and see what we use... :oops:

Stan Wilson is a bike messenger in the UK, who put 410,000 miles on his '98 XX and had 205,000 miles on his '01 XX when he was interviewed by a British bike magazine a few months ago. In the article, Stan stated that he uses Honda OEM filters and cheap 10w 40 car oil. Of course, he changes them each week.

Therefore, just ride all the time and you'll never have to worry about which oil you use in your XX.

Wally World still has the M1 15w50

:lol: :lol: Well, I never said I owned one :wink:

It's good having neighbors with expensive hobbies :twisted:

I've had my XX for about a year, and the previous owner had used regular 10-40 petroleum oil for 21,000 miles. I did an oil change with Honda HP4 and soon noticed it was making more noise on initial cold start-ups. The noise would only last for a few seconds, and I think it was coming from the clutch basket. I drained it after about 500 miles and put Honda GN4 back in, and it soon went away. Now have 28,000 and all is very well.

Does ANYBODY have a link to some of those OIL analysis charts...???

New charts, that is.... I've got an old chart that's over 2 years old, and I've been searching the web, but haven't found anything yet. The one I've got is a Butler "CAT" or something like that.





and J. I was wrong.... Harvest Canola. :) gotta watch them saturated Fats you know. :wink:

That's just not right. That Canola is like Artery Killer, or so I'm told.

















:lol:

:wink:

It gets close to 0 deg in Athens.
I feel that the g/box works better with the 10W40 (especially in my daily 20km trips to work). For this and the reduced parasitic losses, I would like to use it all year round, but during summer temperatures can go up to 45 deg C, so I am not taking any chances.

Motul 3000 10W40

:shock:

(113°F)

Wow. 0°C - 45°C temperature swing in one place? Bravo...

J.

Welcome to my world :wink: :lol:

I've got the MCN, and Sport Rider articles on oil. Don't know if they have them on their web sites. All the PPM's you want. (no I can't scan, sorry)

Mobil 1 was at the top, above a lot of motorcycle oils costing $10 a quart!

Mobil 1 is $20 for a 5 qt. jug at Wally World.

That is why I use it.

MoBil 1 ya it is a great blend of petroleum and synthetic, but.

AMSOIL is "SIMPLY THE BEST"
and it is a "full synthetic"

we've just received a new Motorcycle only fully synthetic oil in South Africa, haven't got the name with me, but these guys gives the following guarentee on the oil: if the oil damages any clutch, clutch basket or any gears they will replace the system free of charge. We have used this oil on a Honda GL1100, GL1000 and GL1500 and man did we notice a big difference in smootheness overall. The bikes run smoother, lighter on fuel, and also starts with less noise.

Overall this product seem worth while to test on a Bird.
Also used it now on a Honda CBR 600 F4 to test it for higher performance requirements.

Will post the name tomorrow, as soon as I get it.

This stuff is not cheap here, 1 litre will cost ZAR 60.00 = +- USD 9.0 per Litre

I know that there was a post about not to use fully synthetic oil on the XX, the clutch doesn't like it. Seeing how the company is prepared to pay for any damage caused due to their product, I think I'll ty it on the next oil change.

Will let you know

Been reading up on Amsoil...

and I'm not quite sure about it yet.... according to Amsoil, there product is better than every other oil out there, and it doesn't have shit for an additive package.

Strange.

Still reseaching.

Uh, that's not exactly right... Amsoil and Mobil 1 are true blue synthetics.

Mobile 1 is a blend.
A few years back, when Castro released their Full Synthic.
It has a petroleum base.
Mobile sued, and "lost".
The Federal Board of Petroleum products in their decision
decided that petrolium from the ground was being refined
to such a high state that it did not matter if it was used
as a base stock for oils that bore the Fully Synthics label.
Mobile jumped on this. Why because it's alot cheaper
to produce the synthics product this way.

Amsoil, put some 10/40 in the bike last year.
It still looks clean, the bike still shifts clean, and I
can still run up through downtown Los Angeles on the
110 and not have the cooling fans come on, unless I just get
stopped and cannot get some air moving through the rad.
"that also has Amsoil full syn ani freeze".
Amsoil, "I've been sold since I 1st put it in my bike".