is it ok to use other weights.the manuel says 10-40?
i want to switch to syn,what's the best
thanks
scott s. xx

uh oh :devilnangel:

Scott, take the time and search through The Garage for various oil threads.

It's a subject that's been discussed more than a few times here, and each thread has a lot of good information, as well as more than a few strong opinions. :lol:

yep. wd-40 works best.
















as far as whichMobil one to use, just stay away from the ones that say "energy conserving" on the circle on the back, your clutch will thank you.

I'm using Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40. Seems fine to me. It was a little hard to find. I had a friend who owns a swiftlube order it for me.

I run Monsanto it's pricey $900 a quart, but that's what the original Blackbird used. :D

So, you are saying that you use 40 weight? :D

To tell you the truth scott s. people on here use all different weights and there doesn't seem to be any failures. So use what you think is best.

Just been throught the quest for what oil we should use in the Bird. Also what fork oil. Recommendation from suppliers is semi or blened synthetic. Now not just any oil as it will cause problems with clutch.

Check this site out for your bike oil requirements it covers most bikes.

http://www.infomedia.com.au/corporateoverv...w_frameset.html

Then follow links at bottom of page to manufacturers ie BP etc. for recomendations for various bikes. to sumarise this is what I found below there are 2 colums read down.

Manufacturer Engine Oil 4 litres Fork oil [483ml x 2] or 1 litre

Caltex Havoline Premium Texamatic 1888
Havoline Synthetic 5w 40


Shell Advance vsx4 Advance fork 10
Advance sx4

Mobil Mobil 1 racing 4t Mobil fork oil medium 10
Mobil extra 4t 10w 40

BP Superbike 4 Bartran HV 32


Pennzoil GT Performance Syn Blend

Valvoline Durablend 10w 40 ATF Dexron 111
Ultramax Hydraulic Oil 32

Castrol Activ 4T Fork oil 10
GPS
R4 Superbike


Honda GN4 4stroke 10w 40 Pro Honda ss8

I am using Castrol GPS as it is the only oil on the list I could find at a discount parts store. Most bike stores seem to use Shell Advance sx4 which is the cheaper Shell version. In Oz it cost around $40 for 4 litres.

One thing I was surprised to find was tha Valvoline reconends Dexron111 Automatic transmission fluid for the front forks. Any one with a auto in car usually has this stuff lying around the garage which makes it easily accessable for fork oil top up or change. However do not mix oils completely drain and change.

Do not use mobil one as it will play havic with the clutches.

All synthetic oils are basically the same -- Mobil 1 owns the patent on it, so everybody is bound by the same licensing agreements.

I'm running 10w-30. I think I used Valvoline this time.

Anybody toyed w this M1 flavor?

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO..._SUV_5W-40.aspx

I'm running the M1 5-40 truck and SUV oil. I like it.

I've got a supply of M1 15-50 though I have to use up so last change I put that back in. Did notice a slight power drop, not much but noticeable for the thicker oil.

I think I'll use 3 qts 5-40 and 1 qt 15-50 to get it used up next changes.

Since I sold my XR650L I don't need the 15-50.

I've been using Mobil 1 Heavy Duty 15-50 due to the recommendations here. So far so good at close to 40,000 miles.

Other than that, I can only recommend Spectro Golden 10-40. I've used that for years in bike with good longevity too.

I beg to differ that all Synthetic Oils are the same. There are three types of lubricant classified and marketed as synthetic:

Class III - Highly Treated Mineral Oil, most likely any sub $4.00/qt oil is all or part Class III lubricants. Better than regular oil, but follow regular oil change intervals.

Class IV - PolyAlphaOlefins (PAOs). This is what many synthetics used to be but got too expensive, so many have been blending Class III's into their products. Buyer beware, esp. anything that says it has been reformulated. The pure thing is the best for a street synthetic. I use Amsoil's Motorcycle 10W40 product which is a pure PAO formulation in my 98 Blackbird.

Class V - Esters, great for racing and gas turbines. Red Line is an ester base. Doesn't hold additive packages well. Not the best for street use.

This Mobil site gives some info as to the differences in Mobil 1 oil as to Mobil 1 Bike oil

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...cycle_Oils.aspx


Read it there is a difference to normal mobil 1

I use Amsoil motorcycle specific syn (10-40w) as well and have be very pleased. Kind of pricy...think I paid $6.50/quart IIRC from their website. They have filters too...can't remember what they cost, but cheaper than the stealer.

Put Amsoil in a little over 1 year ago.
The motor immediatly ran cooler and the trans shifted cleaner.
Today, the same oil is still clear and I have not noticed any degredation
in the feel in the shifter.
Amsoil, I'm sold.

What's Pedro's recommendation?

:lmao: :clap:

I just heard on the news that the world has no more oil left.

You may have to use chain wax or monkey squeezins'. :?

Same here, Mobil 1 15W 50 in my ZX-12R since completion of break-in (3 years and 15,000 miles ago). My tranny shifts silky-smooth and I have not found any debris on my oil drainplug magnet since I've stopped using dino oil. 8)