While down at HookersXX on Saturday I had stopped for gas, soon after starting up and idiling the bike died and would not start. Hugo suggested turning the key off and on checking to see if we could hear the fuel pump run. Well it ended up being the 30 amp fuse to the fuel pump had blown. Hugo stuck with me as I moved the fuse from my Motolights to the Fuel pump socket and was able to ride back to the Hotel without another blowing. I picked up some spares for the trip home and had it blow twice more on the leg from Portland to Seattle. I did make it from Reno to Portland without incident after I fried one prior to departure.
Where should I start? Has anybody else had this happen?
Thanks
Chris
Full Version: Fuel Pump Fuse Blowing
Chris, the fuel pump on my 97 hasn't blown a fuse yet :lol:
I'm thinking you have a bad ground....or....the 12V+ is rubbing through somewheres. I absolutely hate electrical work, but that's the easiest place to start IMO. Lift the tank, perhaps one of the wires has worked free and is contacting metal??
Good luck bro. Tell me this didn't prevent you from getting video :lol: :lol:
L8R
I'm thinking you have a bad ground....or....the 12V+ is rubbing through somewheres. I absolutely hate electrical work, but that's the easiest place to start IMO. Lift the tank, perhaps one of the wires has worked free and is contacting metal??
Good luck bro. Tell me this didn't prevent you from getting video :lol: :lol:
L8R
if u havent, id check the connector to the fuel pump under the tank. i had one severly corroded once.
if it is this, sand paper and some dialectric grease should do the trick.
if it is this, sand paper and some dialectric grease should do the trick.
Thanks for the replies, I will start there and try to do some electrical testing.
Sean - I still got video!
Sean - I still got video!
Fuel pump may be drawing too many amps but that would be the last resort if all wires, grounds, connectors and relay in that circut are good and no pinched wires are found. I don't have a book on the FI model but I would make sure there is nothing else on that circut.
Eithe the pump itself is shorting out or the harness somewhere along the way is. I'd put my money on the harness, not the pump itself.
Ran through electrical tests and the R/R and stator looks fine. Going to go ahead and start with a new battery.
Chris
Chris
Doubt if it's the battery. Sounds like a short somewhere. Probably got a part of the harness pinched when you were doing the new SS brake lines. Check you connections under the tank.
Let us know what you find out.
db
Let us know what you find out.
db
I think it was the wiring for my grip warmers, there was a bare spot on the wire that was contacting the frame. I could see arcing from my throttle lines which had the sheating coming off(replacements on order) to a bolt holding my helibars when the wheel was turned tight to the left. Since that was a 30 AMP fused circuit as well it was blowing the 30 amp fuel pump fuse.
The battery is almost three years old, but I had it load tested and it came back fine and all three legs of my alternator where putting out 50+ VAC and the R/R was controlling voltage properly when charging.
Chris
The battery is almost three years old, but I had it load tested and it came back fine and all three legs of my alternator where putting out 50+ VAC and the R/R was controlling voltage properly when charging.
Chris
QUOTE(CAPPEL)
I think it was the wiring for my grip warmers, there was a bare spot on the wire that was contacting the frame. I could see arcing from my throttle lines which had the sheating coming off(replacements on order) to a bolt holding my helibars when the wheel was turned tight to the left. Since that was a 30 AMP fused circuit as well it was blowing the 30 amp fuel pump fuse.
The battery is almost three years old, but I had it load tested and it came back fine and all three legs of my alternator where putting out 50+ VAC and the R/R was controlling voltage properly when charging.
Chris
The battery is almost three years old, but I had it load tested and it came back fine and all three legs of my alternator where putting out 50+ VAC and the R/R was controlling voltage properly when charging.
Chris
I replace my batt every year $50 at wally world, 35 bikes and I've never had a charging system or starting issue, except my GS1150ES, it vibrated the wires apart in the stator.
Even though I bought a brand new Yuasa battery this spring in an attempt to repair a charging system problem, I'm still running on my original 2000 model battery, and it's survived total discharge on more than a few occasions.
Not sure what heated grips you are running, but my Dual Stars only draw 36 watts. On a 12v bike that's only 3 amps. I think they send a 5 amp fuse with the kit. A 30 amp would be asking for trouble on such a small load.
You should check out your grips draw and resize if necessary.
db
You should check out your grips draw and resize if necessary.
db
I believe I have found the culprit!!!! Went for another ride yesterday up to Mt. Baker and blew some more fuses. For clarification I was blowing the Main Fuse B(30amp). This timed it blew while at speed and I then coasted to a stop.
Coil wire pinched between airbox and FI intake stack on left side of bike!
Wire bare in spots
Coil wire pinched between airbox and FI intake stack on left side of bike!
Wire bare in spots
Well, that'd definitely do it! :D
Now, whose fault is it? :evil:
Now, whose fault is it? :evil:
QUOTE(Northman)
Well, that'd definitely do it! :D
Now, whose fault is it? :evil:
Now, whose fault is it? :evil:
All mine, :shock: that's the kicker. I took it out for another ride tonight without the lower plastics on. No fuse blown and I only got a little wet in the downpour. I should have my new Avon 49/46 in and my Wilber suspension hardware this week. Then I will be ready for another ride to Monterey for GP racing. I hope to get up to Yosemite since the pass is open now.
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