Thought that might get your attention :mrgreen:

How the hell do you get the brake bleed nipples out of the calipers (to put some teflon tape on the threads) without all the fluid draining out?

After a turn or two the fluid began pissing out all over the place....the mityvac was next to useless as a result as it sucked about 90% air...

So how'd you do it?

"How do you get the brake bleed nipples out of the calipers without all the fluid draining out? "


Ummm..........you don't. The bleed nipples are what's supposed to hold the brake fluid in. Removing them will, indeed, let the fluid out.

so I just let the fluid run out while I am putting the teflon tape in the nipple?

NOOOOOOOOOO

Brake fluid likes to eat paint.

Drain the system then change the Nipples

well that's screwed up then! Does the teflon tape last a few bleeds or does it have to be done each time? If that's the case this MityVac's gonna see the bin! :cry:

Maybe I'm not clear on this, where exactly was the Mity-Vac sucking air from?

Air can't sneak though those threads unless it's already in your brake system, in which case you'd want it sucked out anyway. I've had some fine bubbles sneak in around where the hose meets the nipple (usually very fine bubbles), but I just ignore that, it doesn't really have any effect on the bleeding process.

Well the rear calipers are good, only a streem of small bubbles say 1mm in diameter. The fronts see huge bubbles with only a tiny amount of fluid between them. They seem to have a very loose thread. So much so that even less than a quater of a turn allows bucket loads of air thru. There is no air in the system, the brakes are fine, but the nipple can 'wabble' around in the threads even at small amounts of un-doing. The mighty vac isn't sucky air from around the connection to the nipple and the tube because when I close the nipple the air stops and the vacuum is maintaned. I ended up just using the mity vac like this and the fulid replaced well with a little help from the lever but I'd rather have saved my $$ and done it the old way.

You can get a brake line clamp, (usually made of plastic) from your local auto parts store, you can then clamp the line just up-stream of the caliper, this will stop the fluid from leaking out and allow you plenty of time to wrap your nipples in teflon :holyshit:
You can also use vise grips to do the same thing but you must be carefull with the tension and wrap the jaws in a soft rag or similar to prevent damage to the line.
Cheers,
Smithy. :lol:

That doesn't sound right. If you bother removing the nipples, I'd replace them. The shitter in this situation is that the nipples are steel and the calipers are aluminum, so the threads that would most likely be damged are on the expensive part.....

Hi Smithy!

No... it doesn't seem right but it. It's also the first time they have been undone! What's the point in replacing them? Are you suggesting that the threads are out of spec?

They certainly shouldn't be wobbling about with only a bit of turning out. Beyond that, you're guess is probably better than mine, you having the bike in front of you and all.

I'd say at the least you need to remove them and take a good hard look at the threads on both pieces.

I just put on Galfer Front Lines and at the Left Caliper the Mity-Vac line seemed to be sucking air forever. More air than fluid like you're describing. Finally, after quite some time the air was out and everything seemed OK. Are you sure you're not in too big a hurry? I know I was and I was convinced I had a problem.

Maybe, but you had empty line, so it stands to reason that there was that much air in there. I was just replacing the fluid by sucking down from the res. There was no air in the lines at the start as if there was that much they would have been spongy. FWIW the clutch did it also.

OK, I missed that part. Sorry.

I've never used a mity vac but I've heard of what he's describing.

The fix IS indeed to remove the nipple and wrap it with teflon tape and screw it back in. There is nothing wrong with your nipples. :liftshirt:

I'm wondering if you applied the brake lever fully, opened the bleeder, and then tied the brake lever in the activated position that no fluid would come out. No air to let it out.

Hmm no I never tried to tie the lever. I would seal the res. off wouldn't it...

I'll have to give that a go next time.

Thanks