So, at 12,000mi I had to replace the stator with a Rick's. Now at 21,300 it stopped charging. I immediatly figured it was the recitifer and the test in the tech manual confirmed it. Now with a new recitifier from Ron Ayers, yaaaaaay! it's still not charging :evil: :evil: :evil: I really could care less about the money to buy another stator but I'm really worried this problem is systemic.

I was using a manual fan switch on the first stator then took that off when I put the 2nd one in. For the past 10,000 I've been running without a headlight to save juice and just flicking the high beam on when I want to be seen so, I havn't been taxing the system with high beams, electric vests etc... WTF is going on here. PLease Help.

http://www.electrexusa.com/electrex_fault_finding.html

This is a great fault finding chart. (just don't buy their products) Print it out and grab your multimeter. The service manual procedure is also good.

Check ALL the connectors from the stator to the reg/rec.

Don't assume the new reg/rec is good.

I still have had no problems with my system since I put on a R1 reg/rec. Can't recommend it enough. Still have the origional stator.

I'm now running an electric liner (77 watts) and still no problems. I was out yesterday for a few hours with it cranking the heat.

My battery is now 7 years old and still going.

Don't run without a headlight. It's the one you don't see that will get you.

The shop manual test results indicated my rectifier/regulator was bad, when in fact is was a bad stator that passed the shop manual test. Check the alternator output with the alternator disconnected (read between the three yellow wires) and you should get, if memory serves, at least 60-80 volts AC under no load at 5000 rpms or so. Mine put out about 8-13 volts, but passed all conductivity and ground tests using a multimeter. It was internally shorted between its' windings, but not to ground, as I could see once I removed the stator and inspected it.

Just got done inspecting.

Yea goudy, I replaced my rectifier under the same test. My alternator is putting out 56V on one coil and nothing on the other 2.

We checked all the connections and they seem to be fine, 3-5ohlms for all. The only thing I can think of is we had to rewire the three wires coming from the stator to the connector because the Rick's didn't have OEM connector, but it was fairly clean and seemed to work. :roll:

I suspect the one from Rick's may have not been good from the start but I never knew since I didn't run the headlight.

Just pulled the cover off and it's crispy just like hte forst one. WTF couild be causing this after 9200miles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think I'll just go back to OEM or should I?

That's what I ended up doing after a couple attempts with ElectrexUSA.

Did you crispy stator look like this?




Fried stator wires:



Insulation burned competely off:



However, all this was on a staor with 60,000 miles of fairly hard-core competitive Endurance Riding.... PIAA 910 aux lamps, Widders from head to toe, etc.

Two stators in 21,000, methinks you have go something else going on here... other connections, wire harness issues, there must be something else happening....

You might consider Biting the Big One, and score a new stator *and* R/R, and be done with it. Yeah, it'll cost, but nothings worse than a dicked-up electrical system.

Me, I'd be going over all attending wire harnesses with a fine-tooth comb before installing your new components.....

I tend to agree with Silverbird 1100 regarding something else going on here, as I've run 110 watts of auxilliary lighting, and during previous winters, an additional 150+watts of Gerbing heated gear with no problems until my stator finally died at 43K miles (Gloves/socks/pants/jacket).

I replaced mine with an OEM stator from somewhere (not Ayers but a Honda Parts place) I found on this board for around $140.00 or so. Would check all connections for good continuity, but suspect maybe one part of the bridge rectifier/regulator may be shorted. Sure miss the old days when you could actually check the bridge diodes, as well as the isolation diode on the old style units.

I also installed a SunPro Voltmeter after replacing the Stator just to monitor voltage. One problem that does occur at times is when voltage drops for whatever reason (rectifier/connections/etc.) current goes up accordingly (E=IR) which tends to overheat components. The manual calls for a charging voltage of <15.5 volts, while I generally see something closer to 14.5 volts max.

One other check you might make is to read battery positive to ground on an AC scale on your test meter. This sometimes shows up a bad bridge rectifier loop, if shorted, by indicating an AC voltage being passed to the battery.

I'm cleaning all electrical connectors and dressing them with dielectric grease while down for the winter in hopes of eliminating any other electrical gremlins before they show up.

I went over all tests from the electrixusa flow-chart. There seems to be no more that .5 continuity for all connections and most more like .3. There is also a clean circuit from the recifier all the way back to the battery ground.

My part# for the Rick's stator is 21-111 (It says '0Honda) on the invoice)and it did not have the right connector, we had to splice and dice but there were no leaks. I think I know why the first stator went, over using the fan manually :roll: but the second one may have been for a 99' :???: which I may have never noticed not running the headlight.

Warchild, it's even darker than yours and even smells crispy. My recitifier is brand new so I'll have fresh compentents once I get my OEM stator. Is Ron Ayers "EXACTLY" the same as my local dealer or do Ron Ayers get the old leftovers?

What I'd really like to know is, will a half faulty R/R have over worked my second stator? The bike cranked like a demon all last year :?: :?: :?:

Get part # at Ron Ayers but buy it here:

http://www.hondadirectline.com/

They seem the cheapest.

Thanks Pete, got on one on the way for $157+air shipping about $10 less than the dick's at Ron Ayers.


:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
I just found out my 9200 mile stator was for a 97-98 XX :evil: are those 360watts? Hopefully someone with a manual will be able to tell me. :wink:

Rick's does not sell Fi Model stators. I guess i'm stupid for not questioning the plug not fitting but they could have said something...

Sooooo, I remember 2 days before my first stator went my bike was absolutely baking for a good 10 hours in a row with old crappy Bel ray dino oil and over using the fan. Maybe, just maybe that was enough to finish it off? I'll keep looking for a leak but anyone have a stock stator go out around 12K?

Thanks

97 and 98 have 390 watts @ 5k rpm.

How much for the FI bikes?

Hope I don't have a stator in my future. :cry:

460 Watts @5000

The part numbers are

31120- MAT-004 for the 97-98
31120- MAT-E01 for the 99' and up

Rick from Rick's motorsport said usually unless the first part (31120) is different it's probably the same part. You really can't argue with 390 vs 460 though...

I still can't find any problems in the wiring. I'm just going to hope that my rectifier started over-working my stators just before the first one went out and the 360 watt was just too weak. If a brand new OEM recitifer, stator and battery doesn't fix the problem I'll probably sell it :evil:

Hey Silverbird. What was the verdict? Bike fixed?