OK, doing pilot jets on my 'bird from the jet kit... I should have just turned them out an extra 1/2 - 3/4 turn from where they were from the factory (assuming they had not been messed with before), but went ahead and turned them all the way in then backed them out to 3 turns. They are now at 3-1/2 or so turns out and the bike just now ALMOST starts as good cold as before the jet kit, and the idle-1/8 throttle is still alittle weak below 4-5k. It just seems like the idle mixture isn't the same across the board, because when it's freezing or so, it really kindof starts on 2-3 cylinders and adds the 4th one in about 5-10 seconds and runs fine thereafter except for the 0-1/8 throttle issue.

I guess the real question is: When you turn them in, and it starts to feel like a spring is bottomed out or something, but the screw doesn't bottom out for another 1/2 turn or so, when should you start counting as "0" going back out? When it feels like the spring loaded something bottoms, or when the screw bottoms??

Setup info:
-All screws were approximately 2-1/2 out give or take when I turned them in the first time (dont' know if it was factory or not)
-K&N drop in filter
-factory pipes with 1" hole in baffle (effectively slip-ons flow-wise I immagine)
-Factory series 10 (or whatever the stage one kit is) jet kit
-runs pretty well perfect everywhere else, every other throttle position

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

Start from where the screw bottoms out. Not tight just when you feel them touch.
I put the Factory jet kit in mine and it starts about the same as stock, if it hasn't set for too many weeks. When its cold there is a hesitation at about 3k otherwise its fairly linear.

That's what I mean though... something touches on a couple of them, and feels spring loaded, then about 1/2 turn later, the screw bottoms out.

Mike

BTW, I am running a tank with Seafoam though it as of last night to make sure nothing's clogged or anything... It did sit for awhile after it was wrecked, but it has done some miles since then... but it never hurts to take variables out of a problem...

Damn! lousy timeing. I just put my carbs in and was running mine/syncing the carbs this morning.

From memory, I can't remember any hangup while turning screws all the way in. Remember you're dealing with brass and alluminum. I would say turn all the way past the spring resistance till you feel it bottom out than count turns out. I'm at 3 turns out, stock jetting, pipes, intake.

Tha factory setting is almost closed for emissions. Bike barely idles.

Since you were stored awhile, it sounds like something IS gummed up with your running on 2 then 4 cylinders. I did the same thing this morning on start-up #2 didn't fire right away. I think it was because I had the plugs out and lubed the threads before installing them and got some on the electrodes.

BTW.. running the bike fully warm then running it out of gas while trying to hold it at about 4K RPM is a great way to clean plugs. The bike runs super lean.

I read a post on the Superhawk forum about a "bafflectomy" Is that what you did to the stock pipes? How's it sound?

I also drilled my slide vac. holes another 64ths. to 1/8th inch to see what that does for general throttle response.

Pete,

The "bafflectomy" ... As some of you might recall, I got these pipes for free from Byrdman... He's the one that did it... He drilled 3 x 1/2" holes in the baffle straight in, toward the front of the pipe, decided that wasn't quite loud enough, then punched the middle ofthe 3 holes out. I think it sounds GOOD. It's not loud, but it's not a sewing machine either.

Thanks,
Mike

Anybody know what the factory settings are?

2-1/2 I think... that's what mine were at... although they don't come with caps over them, so I don't know if they've been touched or not.

The factory settings are from 1/2 to 1 turn out using the idle drop procedure. Barely enough gas at idle to keep engine running.

Ignore all that and run them out evenly to 3 turns or more.

I just opened mine 3 turns. They seemed to have been at about 1 and 1/2 turns but they may have been messed with before. I didn't feel a point of resistance from the spring before they bottomed out either. It started and idled fine. I hope this will help get rid of the flat spot at 4 to 5 k rpms.

How hard is it to get to the screws just bought my bike and was wondering what all has to come off to get to the screws I had the tank off a while ago air box or can you get to them without removing it? Sorry for a dumb question.