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Stinger_916

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About Stinger_916

  • Birthday 08/31/1967

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    Stinger_1100

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    Torrington, Connecticut aka "The North West Corner"
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    Everything motorcycle, woodworking and being a menace to society
  1. That's exactly what I did today & the whole thing went very smooth. I did get a bit of a scare when I fired it up, dam thing make one hell of a shrieking sound for about a second or two. So I shut it down, tried it one more time & no noise. Did it a third time & still no noise. So I am wondering what the hell the noise was, has any one had this happen? Never heard of such an occurance before. Is your stator's output now correct? The only thing I can think of is the new stator wasn't aligned correctly, and it was grinding. Sure hope not, but I can't imagine where a screeching could have been coming from. Maybe it was your AC belt Nope it was not the AC belt, I checked that first and it seems to be in good order I thought of the stator being misalighned as well but I took my time and made sure that was correct, so I stop by a local dealer and the mech I talked to said it might be the starter clutch. He said since I swapped out the stator and cleaned all the oil out of the case the clutch might have been starved for a bit of oil and was making that sound I heard. He told me to keep an eye on how it starts and if the clutch is going it will get harder and harder to start. I took it up to Americade this weekend and it ran like a normal Black Bird no more shrieking.
  2. That's exactly what I did today & the whole thing went very smooth. I did get a bit of a scare when I fired it up, dam thing make one hell of a shrieking sound for about a second or two. So I shut it down, tried it one more time & no noise. Did it a third time & still no noise. So I am wondering what the hell the noise was, has any one had this happen?
  3. What year model bike do you have ? They probably sent you one for a 1997-98 BB which have different connectors, send it back !!! I have a 03' but I double checked the order and they sent me the right one but I did not order the 4 pin connector kit thinking it would come that way.
  4. Has anyone installed a Electrosport stator? If so did Electrosport send you the wrong connectors for the BB?? I just got mine & when I took it out of the box I noticed the connectors were different. So I am thinking just swap out the old 3 prong connector, well that's not as easy as I thought. Would anyone have a source for the OEM spade connectors used on the stator wiring???
  5. I would say it is really straight forward but I would not remove the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork. You are asking for troubles if you do that. Also you want to loosen the 23mm ( I think that's the size) bolt on top of the forks before you take them out of the trees. This makes removing it sooo much easier. When I did this procedure I had a bit of light weight oil, like trans fluid handy to flush out all the oil fork oil. I just added a few oz's and worked the forks up and down a bit then dumped out what was left over. I was amazed how much old fork oil came out after doing that. Last thing was to make sure you have an accurate measuring device for when you put the fluid back in the forks. This way you won't have to much or to little in either fork. I hope that helps you
  6. Nice unbiased comparison of the two methods. You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube (and hope to hell the damper rod doesn't spin with the bolt, as it does about half the time in my experience. Do you own an impact wrench? No? Gonna have to remove the fork now, anyway). The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained (after you've loosened the fork cap and released the lock nut underneath. Not a lot of room for the two largish tools required, but who cares about a nick or two in the tank, you've saved half an hour of work. BTW, keep some towels handy, because you're going to get fork oil all over the the bike). The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick (honestly, even if I did it this way, I'd flush the fork out with some fresh oil to try and get all the sediment/crud out of there). Reassembly is straightforward (watch that tank, you don't want more scratches, you just stopped swearing about the first ones). You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts. (don't forget that that damper rod is just as likey to spin when the bolts go in as when they came out. You buy that impact wrench yet? No? Gonna have to pull the fork now, anyway) I've done it both ways, and believe it or not, I find it easier and a lot less frustrating to just pull the forks. YMMV. Wow who knew this post would stir up so much controversy All I can add is that I tried pulling the allen bolt first and that did not work so I did a search here and decided to pulled the forks out. So having done it both ways I would have to say pull the forks off and do it right. Luckily no scratches
  7. Well thats way more info on chains then I ever wanted to learn
  8. Thanks for the info guys. I liked the cable site very cool stuff there.
  9. Has anyone here mounted a Garmin Nuvi 200 to the Bird? If you have what kind of mounting system did you use? Also how did you get power to the unit? I was thinking about using a universal mount from Cycle Gadgets with the generic bolt on ram mount & installing a cigarette lighter style power source near the unit. Any opnions???
  10. After looking at photos of your bike, the "bracket" you're missing, isn't a bracket per se. Rather the right lower cowling bolts to a tab on the oil pan, or rather it used to. The tab breaks off easily. Several members, myself included, are missing the tab. You have to replace the oil pan to get that tab. The cowling secures just fine without it. Yes, that tab is broken off as well, but that's not the bracket I'm referring to. I'm talking about the one that is almost right across from the oil fill cap that the black plastic insert piece mounts too. I can feel a small hole on the backside of the frame where the missing little bracket mounts to (plus I can see a bit of the bracket on BPG's 'Bird). As for the busted oil pan tab, has anyone successfully tried reattaching the broken off tab (I've still got the tab in hand) with a JB Weld, or epoxy type product? I've no interest in replacing the pan (especially if the fairing will hold fine w/o this mounting point), but figured I might give it a go with such a product while I'm fiddling about. I tried to JB weld mine. It broke off again almost immediately. Hey Brett, I thought I read something about a Harley rider using JB Weld to seal some oil leak on his bike, maybe you should PM him for some tips on how to properly use this product??? Al tho he did do a few thousand in dammage to his bike so maybe that's not a good idea
  11. If I would have seen this post a few weeks ago I would have said go with the rivet type but I just had a rivet type let go on me last week or so. Bottom line is what ever you choose make sure it's installed correctly.
  12. I count my blessings every day, someone was watching over me that's for sure. I don't believe the master link failed, I think I failed. I should have had someone just take a look at it to make sure I did not forget anything. We are all human and make mistakes, I am just lucky that this mistake only cost me $5 for a new link, it outcome could have been very, very different.
  13. I am sure the clip type will last as long as you put the clip in it!!! I still cannot believe I did that! Oh and to top it all off now I don't want to get on the gas for fear I will do some real damage. Go figure
  14. Just a few things come to mind, do you still have the stock drive sprocket installed? I recently installed an aftermarket drive sprocket that does not have the rubber around the outside like the stock one does. That just might cause a vibration. Or maybe something stuck in the tire?
  15. Where was this eight ball when I was fucking up!!!!!
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