2fast4love

Thanks for the feedback on the gaskets/crush O rings - I feel more at ease with using based on your comments - plan to button it up tomorrow, so perfect timing!

Just an update/feedback on this project - I removed original header pipe without breaking off any studs - thanks God! Three studs stayed in head, rest came out with nut. I soaked those for a week in PB Blaster and they still would not separate - only way I got them apart was to heat the nut cherry red with torch - bunged up a few studs in the process. As the nuts were all rather rusty, I order new ones from Partzilla - not cheap, nut nice OE ($3.50 each PN:11-90304-MM5-000). I also bought some studs from them ($3.61 each PN:11-90035-MM5-000). The Honda exhaust gaskets I ordered (PN: 11-18291-MW3-670) are an O-ring shape and seem to be a composite type material. The OE ones I took out were a more standard washer style gasket. Has anyone used these O-ring style gaskets/do you think they will work out ok with Yosh header? One little trick I used to install the studs that worked well - I cut one of the old nuts in half to make two smaller (thinner) nuts. I used them as "jam" nuts on the stud to allow me to screw it in all the way to bottom.

Thank you so much for your thoughts on the SS studs - I will just leave the originals in the place and (hopefully) just remove the nuts with a bit of heat from a propane torch. Any other removal tricks out there - I'd really hate to strip or twist off a stud... Can I also assume that OE gaskets are the way to go?

I will be changing to a full Yosh system soon and would like to go with complete new SS stud set - any suggestions on where to buy good quality set? Thanks!

Thanks for the additional commentary on the Yosh fitment issue. As I understand it, all the Yosh RS3 slips for the Bird have a fixed in place mid pipe (secured to the mufflers at the factory). The rotation of the left muffler as seen in the pic placed it in the correct (plumb) vertical orientation (they are oval - nor round). I am/was unaware of any way to separate and rotate the mid pipe. EVLXX - since I plan to ride this bike till I'm 80ish, I will likely hang onto the stockers in case the Yosh pipe is too much for my hearing aid... I did however see a nice factory set on Craigs List - Chicago a week or so ago you may want to check out. As I recall, they look real nice, but price was a bit high. Thanks again!!

Just starting to look for a pair of Givi E41 side cases for my '97. Sold the E460's I had - hung out too far for my tastes. Ideally, I hope to find a pair of matte black E41's with gloss black lids in like new condition - but may consider other options. I expect shipping will be expensive, so I will try to get an idea before I have shipped from any distance. I am in Western WI near La Crosse just in case I got lucky and found some I could drive over and pick up. Let me know what you have - thanks!!

Thanks for all the insight on this topic. I worked directly with Yosh tech support on this and ended up sending the slip-ons back to them. They checked out ok on their fab jig, so a replacement set would have been no different. We ended up working out a deal on a full system which will elimate the left side fitment problem all together. I'll have to save up some more $ for a rejet and will run factory in the meantime (might see temps in the 40's soon!) It took awhile to sort through this with Yosh, but all in all, I am happy with the outcome.

Thank you for all the valuable opinions on this topic. Based on the comments and some "deep thought" over a few beers, I decided to go with stock VFR bars and am very happy with the decision. I was looking for a nice used set for some time, but not having much luck, so I explored new ones. Ended up running across a few very good online sources that had full exploded view diagrams of OEM parts. The lowest costs were generally from Powersports Plus - for 03 VFR left bar (PN5315-MCW-D00) was $109.34. For right side (PN: 53100-MCW-D00) was $116.24. Still a fair amount of $ but I plan to ride this bike till I'm dead, so a I justified the cost of new. A few install comments/observations for any other rookies (like me) that can benefit from it: * Out of the gate, I had a little trouble with the retainer rings at the top of the fork tube. Thanks to a few of the members for posting suggestions (and some better lighting) I was able to see the split ring better and pop them out. * Left side: Used very thin cut off wheel on die grinder to deeply score the retainer tab on the clutch handle housing. Then a mild tap with a hammer and punch and it snapped off clean. Was able to peel back the OE grip and reuse it. Otherwise this side seemed to go failry well. * Right side: Could not quite figure out how to get both throttle cables off. Figured out that if I removed the bar from the fork and just slipped the bar in toward the windshield, I did not even have to mess with it. The grip and insert assembly for this side were not affected so I reused them also. The brake line was a bit tight, but I loosened the lower line clamp on the front fork and moved the line up about an inch, and it fit nice. * General: The OE handlebar weights came out easier than I thought. A little WD40, sacrificial bolt clamped in a bench vice, a few good yanks and they came out. I mounted the new bars flush with the top of fork tubes for now to see how I like them. May move them up a bit if I want a bit more rise, but from what I can tell, this is exactly the solution I was looking for - thanks again!!

Thank you so much for your insight. After I posted the question, I went back down to the garage and moved over some better lighting and then was able to see the split in the stop rings (both were rotated around so the split was up against the riser portion of the bar, so were hard to see. Anyway, once I figured that out, yes, a small pocket knife or micro screwdriver was you need to pop the off. Not sure I will have time tonight, but I will give a full play by play on the bar install in case it can help out any other rookies like me. With a few challenges, I was able to them 95% installed tonight. I will post it under my original handlebar question from a few months ago "VFR vs helibars".

I purchased a pair of stock VFR bars and am in the process of doing the change over. I also have a service manual, so thought this should be a piece of cake... However, having some trouble removing the "stop rings" so I pull the bar up and off. Any quick tricks for that? I have all the basic hand tools, but discovered I shoudl probrably have invest in a pick set. Any help is appreciated. PS - I did search the forum and could not find any refernce to this little gem.

I did try to rotate both ways, which will change up/down angle slightly, but not nearly enough. Also, since these are oval and not round, you really can't rotate much without it looking misalinged (not "plumb"). Attached is pic from rear with left wired to its highest level I can take it witout excessive stress on the header. I will get back to Yosh Tech early next week. Maybe I just got a bad pipe, but since they said their in stock units fit their jig fine and they have had no fitment problems with this model I guess I just wondered if anyone else has experinced this problem.

After considerable thought and insight from fellow posters to this forum, I decided to buy a set of Yoshimura Stainless Steel RS-3 "Zyclone" slip ons. Got a great deal on them from a place called Riders Discount ($475.00 incl shipping) - found them on ebay. Delivered in about 10 days and all looked good. Right side went on fine - left side, not so well. It hangs down substantially (about 1" low at hanger and about 2" low at end/exit of pipe. I have looked things over in great detail and can't really find the reason for this. My bike is a stock 97 with stock pipes which I pulled off the same day I tried to install the new Yosh units. The stockers fit and aligned just fine. I talked to Yosh Tech Support, they verified part number were corrent and even pulled a few from stock and checked on their jig - of course, fit perfect there and he said they have not had any problems with this model. He suggested I loosen all the bolts on stock header to see if that gave me enough movement. Even after loosening all nuts at the flanges and removing the rear mount bolt, I still can't bring the muffler up into postion where it needs to be even with moderate upward pressure. I have gone back through this forum and tried to read all the slip on posts I could find and have not run across others mentioning this problem - guess I am the lucky one... Has anyone run into this with Yosh or others slip ons? At any rate, I am pretty much out of ideas. Yosh offered to send another left pipe. Based on my measurements, and the fact that it fit their jig fine, I doubt it will be any different that what I have. They also offer single systems, but I prefer to stay with the slip ons for budget reasons (pipe cost and jetting etc). So I guess I send this back and stay with the "Buick sound" or try to modify this one - not real happy about either of those choices. Modification idea was to take the pipe to an exhaust shop and have them try to expand the inside of the pipe inlet from 1 7/8 to 2 1/8 and then use a factory style bushing gasket. I believe the reason the factory pipe fits fine and the Yosh does not is that there is some "wiggle room" with bushing/gasket mating system whereas alignment has to deadnuts on with a "pipe to pipe" fit lit the Yosh. Has anyone done this? Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated - I am pulling my hair out! Thanks!

Ditto the comments on the Wiss snips - I have been using them for years (have both a left and right.) Broke one cutting thick sheet metal, took it back to store and they gave me a new one. I have bought them at a regional "farm and fleet" type store for about $13 each on sale. Menards may also being carrying them now. Another nice quality - but likely more expensive option is the Lenex brand. They tend to be used by the HVAC guys mostly, but are nice! I see some Menards stores now carry these, otherwise your local HVAC distributor may be best bet. One suggestion on the Wiss units - get the "offset" versions. The blades are flattened out making it much easier for the metal to bypass the snips (and your hand). This is especially helpful when cutting tight radius curves. Their design is not quite as strong if you really plan to abuse cutting heavy sheetmetal (thats how I broke mine), but the ease of use is much better. Mark

I have enjoyed my 97 BB over a year now and truly love this bike! One of the few things I would like to improve/change is the exhaust - its too quite for my tastes. I will of course keep the original system, but want to swap to a new/more aggressive sounding system this winter. I have gone through several of the exhaust threads and pulled some good insight, however, I think quite a few of the options referenced are no longer available. I guess these are my basic questions - wondering if any of you have thoughts? * About the only current options I have found for a 97 BB are several varieties of the Yoshimira RS-3 (full system, slip on, carbon fiber, SS, titanium). Are there any others still made that I should consider? * From the other/older threads, I think the Yosh will give me the sound and appearance I am looking for at a reasonable price point. Have seen a full SS system for about $700 and Zyclone slip ons for about $600. Is it worth the work and hassle (exhaust gaskets, center stand issues etc) to change the whole system, out versus just using slip ons? The adddtional $100 is not the main reservation, just wondering if it a wise option and worth the extra work? * Will any carb mods be needed? Thanks in advance

Thanks for all the suggestions - I really appreciate it!! Thought I'd pass along some feedback on what I ended up with and how it worked out after a summer of riding: Tank bag--- * I looked at Cortech 10 at a local dealer and tried it on the bike. Looked like very good quality unit, about $120 or so, but I did not like the looks of the magnetic "wings" on the sides - they splayed forward and covered up the Honda logo on the tank. * Ended up buying a Joe Rocket Manta XL and really like it alot. Seems like the perfect (mid) size unit, stays put (even at 120+), have not had much of an issue with tank scratches, but I think you do have to be very careful to not get dust and grit under the bag. I started carrying a small bottle of detail spray and micro fiber - seems to do the trick. Tank bra--- * I searched high and low and could not find any new tank 1/2 bras other than Targa - I did buy one from Dennis Kirk, but did not like the fit so returned it. * I had an older Lockhart 1/2 bra that I had been using and was hoping to replace with a new one. I ended up having an auto upholstery shop put a new elastic cord on that one and fix a few weak stitches and that got me back in the game - for now anyway. My new tank bag seems to work out fine with the 1/2 bra, although I was skeptical at first.