blackhawkxx Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Had to remove the header due to damage. Some of the studs came out instead of the nuts. Should I blue loctite them in the head? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I'd say yes... with the blue you can always get the stud out again without too much trouble. On some engines I've gone right to the red (knowing I'd probably never want to remove them again). On some heads that may have been questionable (porosity, etc.) I've even gone to heli-coils first, and then the appropriate thread locker - never had to do that on an XX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biometrix Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I will have to weigh in with the dissenting view. My opinion is to NEVER loctite header studs. Here's why...had they been thread-locked THIS TIME instead of having them back out like they did they might have broken off and then you would have a much bigger project on your hands. I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. I've never had them come loose by themselves but if the nut won't turn (like yours) the stud is less likely to snap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I will have to weigh in with the dissenting view. My opinion is to NEVER loctite header studs. Here's why...had they been thread-locked THIS TIME instead of having them back out like they did they might have broken off and then you would have a much bigger project on your hands. I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. I've never had them come loose by themselves but if the nut won't turn (like yours) the stud is less likely to snap. +1 on the anti-seize. It's never really bothered me if the stud comes out rather than the nut coming off, beats the hell out of snapping off the stud. That said, if the stud/nut combo is rusted enough for the nut to be really frozen on there, I'd replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Also use anti-seize on the nuts when you put the header back on. Then the studs should stay in the head next time the header is removed. In case anybody is in need, I have a whole set of exhaust pipe studs from a ZX-11 just taking up space in my parts bins. I think they are the same as the Bird's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. Is there different types of anti-seize? What I have is silver in color. Thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biometrix Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. Is there different types of anti-seize? What I have is silver in color. Thanks for the replies. Probably but I am not sure what the difference is. Anti-seize is one of those "things" you buy for your home shop/garage and have the same container for the rest of your life. Mine is coppery...you must have bought the more expense silver kind...Dave K probably buys the gold anti-seize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I actually prefer to use anti-seize (copper paste stuff) on header bolts. Is there different types of anti-seize? What I have is silver in color. Thanks for the replies. There's copper, nickel, aluminum-graphite and zinc. All of them look silvery except the copper. As long as the silver you have isn't zinc (low temp rating), you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedEye Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 My studs were in bad shape when I upgraded my exhaust last fall so I replaced them with stainless internal hex bolts for just a few bucks more than stock hardware. The stepdown from 8mm to 7mm doesn't seem to be necessary, 8mm fits the holes in the flanges just fine. I also used antiseize, just remember to retorque after they've been through a few heat cycles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast4love Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I will be changing to a full Yosh system soon and would like to go with complete new SS stud set - any suggestions on where to buy good quality set? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 I sheared a head stud when doing a rebuild on a 250R. What a frigged nightmare to get out. Never over torque!!! Thank God for a 70 yr old friend of the family who is a machinist. He machined a long steel guide for the drill press. Worked like a charm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 The stainless studs are pretty but SS and aluminum don't play well together, I'd stick with OE. There might be a reason Honda did the step-down diameter, like stretch factor or something. There are many types of SS and who knows what they'll do over time. It may not matter in this application, but I've seen a lot of issues stemming from people rethinking the engineers on fasteners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 The stainless studs are pretty but SS and aluminum don't play well together, I'd stick with OE. That would be my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast4love Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Thank you so much for your thoughts on the SS studs - I will just leave the originals in the place and (hopefully) just remove the nuts with a bit of heat from a propane torch. Any other removal tricks out there - I'd really hate to strip or twist off a stud... Can I also assume that OE gaskets are the way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 The nuts are stuck to the stud and the stud is removed from head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 If you have ATF and acetone and the ability to mix them about 50/50 you have the best penetrating oil there is. Kroil works really damn well too. Heat is another option; torch the nut and it might just come right off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haWHYnXX Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 When I worked on mine awhile ago, any stud that came out with the nut attached went to the wire wheel, then some PB Blast, sat for about 20 mins, and finally into the vise for nut removal. Then ran a tap through each nut and a die down each stud - including the studs that remained in the head. Amazing how much cleaner the studs look after that. Finally anti-seize during reassembly. Worked like a charm. When I pulled them off again a few months ago, nuts came off easily. I made sure to repeat the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast4love Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Just an update/feedback on this project - I removed original header pipe without breaking off any studs - thanks God! Three studs stayed in head, rest came out with nut. I soaked those for a week in PB Blaster and they still would not separate - only way I got them apart was to heat the nut cherry red with torch - bunged up a few studs in the process. As the nuts were all rather rusty, I order new ones from Partzilla - not cheap, nut nice OE ($3.50 each PN:11-90304-MM5-000). I also bought some studs from them ($3.61 each PN:11-90035-MM5-000). The Honda exhaust gaskets I ordered (PN: 11-18291-MW3-670) are an O-ring shape and seem to be a composite type material. The OE ones I took out were a more standard washer style gasket. Has anyone used these O-ring style gaskets/do you think they will work out ok with Yosh header? One little trick I used to install the studs that worked well - I cut one of the old nuts in half to make two smaller (thinner) nuts. I used them as "jam" nuts on the stud to allow me to screw it in all the way to bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biometrix Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Just an update/feedback on this project - I removed original header pipe without breaking off any studs - thanks God! Three studs stayed in head, rest came out with nut. I soaked those for a week in PB Blaster and they still would not separate - only way I got them apart was to heat the nut cherry red with torch - bunged up a few studs in the process. As the nuts were all rather rusty, I order new ones from Partzilla - not cheap, nut nice OE ($3.50 each PN:11-90304-MM5-000). I also bought some studs from them ($3.61 each PN:11-90035-MM5-000). The Honda exhaust gaskets I ordered (PN: 11-18291-MW3-670) are an O-ring shape and seem to be a composite type material. The OE ones I took out were a more standard washer style gasket. Has anyone used these O-ring style gaskets/do you think they will work out ok with Yosh header? One little trick I used to install the studs that worked well - I cut one of the old nuts in half to make two smaller (thinner) nuts. I used them as "jam" nuts on the stud to allow me to screw it in all the way to bottom. Never had the header off my XX when I had it but from my other bike header "experiences" it's likely that your new O-ring gaskets are crush gaskets and will assume the "standard washer" shape once in place and with the header tightened down. The gaskets for my VTX and Valkyrie were O-Ring type when new but not so much after installation. In fact the VTX gaskets "crushed in" so nicely that they were hard to see when you took the header back off and had to be removed with a steel pick or similar tool to pry them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast4love Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks for the feedback on the gaskets/crush O rings - I feel more at ease with using based on your comments - plan to button it up tomorrow, so perfect timing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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