arcticflipper

I;ve used the Stealth Tri-Metal sprockets before, but only rear,didn't like the front that we could get down here. It lasted the longest of all sprockets I've tried on the XX, and it looks oh so darn pretty with a black XX!! Bitch to keep clean but well worth the cash IMO.

I have a simlar setup as the OEM ones. Same mounting brackets, but with VFR800 (interceptor) panniers. slightly bigger panniers and they were cheaper.

It's definitely mid corner as soon as you get on the throttle. Speed is anything above 200kph (124 mph). I did also notice that I can somewhat reduce this by pulling the handle bars slightly back whilst in the corner. This seems to stop the shake a bit. Pulled all teh bearings, stearing, wheels, swing arm etc. and checked , cleaned and repacked them all. Bad news is nothing needed replacement or showed any damage. So now I'm even more lost.... besides for the fact that I live in africa.... lol Talk to me about the under-load effects? I've had the chain and sprockets replaced about 80miles or so ago, so they still fairly new. Could it perhaps be a snatch effect from the chain when I roll on the power? Could this have anything to do with the front sprocket drive shaft or bearings that might move when under load, or would it rather be towards the rear axle that might move or pull under load? Could it perhaps be the swing arm that passes 0 degrees whilst in the turn, which then causes the chain to pull the wheel towards the one side, which could then cause the shake? Perhaps this would then be one reason for me to seriously reconsider the 6mm spacer on the rear shock, to provide more of an angle between the swingarm and 0 degrees? I know for a fact that I've not exceeded the handeling of the XX, had some comments like that. I'm just simply not a good enough rider for that. I'd like to get some more info on the mid corner ideas you have.

Thanks at least you made me smile!!! I've now moved over to the following: Replace front and rear wheel bearings. Check front and rear axle check front and rear rim replace all bearings in and around swingarm. Next step will be to get hold of another XX shock and test that.... Anyone have a OEM shock they want to sell????? Please??

How often do you guys change the needle bearings on the swingarm? 02 XX with 86 000km on. It feels like the swingarm is moving. Flexing under high speed sweeps. Could there be anything else to check? or just the swingarm bearings. What is the correct torque settings for the swingarm?

Thanks for the info, I stripped the fork completely, but can't seem to figure out how to get to the valving inside the dampning rod. I think I'll send it off to get done. It's clearly not a DIY job for me.....

I'm looking at the racetech website, wondering what I need to buy. I see there's a fork gold valve kit, and also a rebound valve kit. Do I need both? Or do you normally only replace the rebound valves? http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/S...angname=english Is there any cheaper place to get these from?

OK opened up the fork. Pumped the dampning rod a couple of times, and it never gets harder - this kinda tells me that when the shim stack in the valving was cleaned it must have somehow been damaged. Now the dampning rod on the inside of the fork is connected to the valving? Or is the valving also known as the dampning oil piston? If I order valving online, do I just replace the old OEM valving with the new set, or is there more to this than that? HELP

Fuck that's what I thought! I've now had the forks out twice in one week! Taken it to a dealership ant told them that it wasn't right, they keep on giving bullshit stories. So now what do I do? Do I strip the fork down that feels like it has no rebound dampning? or do I get new valving and replace both? SHIT this is frustrating the crap out of me now. Can someone please give me advise on this? I don't really understand or know how the valving works together with the oil piston. From what I can gather the oil pistons actually controle the flow of the oil, and not so much the valving on OEM setups. Thus the reason why you change the valving on the forks to allow better oil flow control to be handled by the shim stack (valving) instead of the oil piston. So from this it seems like the oill piston could be clogged up? I've recently opened and cleaned the shim stacks on the valving - not me but the stealer did it while I was watching. I did notice that the valving looked different on the two forks. Does anyone have more info, the workshop manual doesn't say much about the forks and valving nor oil piston.

I've recently had the forks service, valves cleaned etc. Now I got them back today, but I'm not sure the job is done correctly. The left fork returns slower than the right. Is this right? Does the one fork control dampning or is there a compensation for the LBS built into the one fork - left fork when sitting on the bike?

Who's got them? What works? Any problems with them? Any recommendations?

There's no glue that comes with the kit, only the FendaExtenda, tape and I think 2 screws. The glue you will need to get yourself.

What can I use to buff the panels to give a new bike shine? Have some scratches and paint damage too that I need to take out.

Thanks Can you buy this stuff in sheets, I don't really want to go to the local stealer for this, if I could get the same thing for cheaper elsewhere....

What meterial is used on the inside of the fairings. It looks like sponge, but I'm sure it's not just normal sponge? I'm respraying and checking the XX - it's close to 100 000 km. I saw that the "sponge" was looking a bit worn and damaged, thus with the respray I could just as well replace that too.