superhawk996

A carrier would probably be easiest and possibly most aerodynamic if it's low enough, but probably limited to one unless you make something. To carry both I'd say bed, or maybe the zero in the bed and XR on a carrier.

Mouth suction is more than enough to open it, it doesn't take much. If the gas isn't super old, my guess is that the carbs need cleaning. The fact that it's trying to start says that it's very unlikely to be a battery problem.

Something I forgot to say; if it has LED taillights they probably won't do the goofy open ground stuff I mentioned, I've never tested it, but guessing not. If the light only has two wires then it's being internally grounded by the mounting screws, usually only one of them. If it has an external ground wire it 'should' be white and is almost always attached to one of the light's mounting screws, or it'll have its own screw. I've never seen a trailer that had a ground wire going back to the lights, they're always frame grounded at each end. If it uses normal bulbs check it, trailer bulbs and bulb sockets shit out way faster than on a car. I can't imagine the axle causing it. The hub could if it was machined wrong, super loose bearings might be able to cause it. Either can be easily checked.

When a trailer light has an open ground it'll usually do weird shit like flash all the running lights when you hit the turn signal and light them all with the brake applied. If they're wired straight to the vehicle's taillight wiring the car's lights will also act up with turn and brake.

Many, maybe most, trailer lights ground through the mounting studs/screws. First thing I'd check is the weights to make sure they didn't fall off, next would be to spin the tire and make sure it's not out of round. I had a clip-on weight fall off about a mile from the tire shop, and watched a stick-on fall off Carlos's dirt bike while it was just sitting there.

How else am I to stoke the fire?!?! But no, this is a proper Blackbird, the original fastest bike in the world, not that white thing with fuel infection. Which was beautiful. This one's living outside for now, but I'm glad you mentioned that because I've been considering moving it indoors.

No, the valve is in tact and normal. I added a piece of vacuum hose, the new and original hoses connect to eachother with a barb fitting just below the fairing on the left side. Since the bike sits a lot I wanted an easy way to drain the carbs. Before parking it I disconnect the hose which shuts off the fuel flow so I can run the carbs dry. When I want to start it again I suck on the hose connected to the diaphragm to prime the carbs instead of cranking a long time. Then I reconnect the hoses and fire it up. If the diaphragm were to fail while parked it would empty the tank onto the ground instead of into the engine. I originally planed to use a tiny ball valve, and as often happens I couldn't find it when I wanted it so I just did the barb fitting as a temporary fix...about a year ago.

If/when the diaphragm goes bad gas can go through the vacuum hose straight into the intake port. A bad float valve 'should' send the excess gas out of the overflow onto the ground.

Actually, I just realized that mine can't because I've by-passed the vacuum line. Fuck you beetlejuice!

No, that's an EFI only thing. The carbed bikes could become flooded due to a failed fuel shut-off valve. Hasn't happened to mine...and I might have just summoned Beatlejuice.

Well duh. You can't just go and cut a strap willy nilly, you'd need a hot knife cutter which will require lots of input. But seriously, not having a bunch of strap to have to secure makes life easier. A less permanent alternative is to roll up the excess and zip tie it...and figuring that out 'should' only take two pages and three failed attempts.

Are you going to commit and cut the excess off the straps?

Take note of the chain guard RXX, I think someone here has been holding out.

Crash protectors? All I see is a large round pillow for a proper nap.

Thanks, I feel better.