BigMig Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 OK team, I FINALLY bought a left side engine cover and gasket for my 2000 XX. The existing one got rashed up a bit and I "patched" it with JB Weld - color was similar. But in truth, it looks like crap, and there has been a tiny oil leak - I suspect from this point. So in looking at my new cover, there appears to be components that attach to the insode of the cover. Can anyone share a procedure to do this swap-out for a guy with modest mechanical experience? Also, since I have the gasket, is it recommneded to use any liquid gasket material, or just let the gasket "do its thing?" Lastly, what about the place where the stator wires go into the cover - any "stuff" you recommend to apply there or will the rubber square that surrounds the wire group work well? Thanks in advance Mike (BigMig) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 It's self-explanatory. Just make sure you're on the center stand. The "stator cover" has pretty much nothing as far as oil in it to worry about if the bike is level. Anything attached will be easy to remove and attach to the new part. No gasket sealer SHOULD be needed, but if you want to add a dab, it's your call. When I did my stator replacement, I was terrified it'd be a mess. My bigger hassle was the wiring to the new RR. Installation of the stator was simple. BTW, I similarly rashed the cover in a low side. My dad did a good job with JB Weld (or similar product, but the color was ass. I found a nice gray metallic and just masked and painted the cover. When I didn't like how it didn't match the right side, I just masked and painted the right side as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 If any gasket material is left stuck to the engine case, use a file or razor blade and make sure it is all gone and only perfectly flat surface remains. Gaskets are only as good as surfaces are flat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I did this yesterday to change the stator. It took longer to fish the stator wire out than to R&R the cover...not counting razor blade time for the stuck-on gasket. You're not changing the stator, so that's not a concern. If you don't have a lift, use pads on the bike and lean it against something on the right side to about the same level as your sidestand would be on the left. Take off the left lower cowl. Clean around the cover. An 8mm socket takes the cover bolts out. Tap the cover with a dead blow hammer, or pad it and tap it with a regular hammer. Then use a flat blade screwdriver to work the cover off. Use the pry tab on the cover, do not place the blade on the gasket surface. At the top where the cover "points" is the starter drive clutch gear. The shaft that it spins on rests in a boss cast into the cover. Sometimes this pulls out with the cover and the gear falls out. There is only one way it can go in. Take the shaft out of the cover and replace it into the gear. This shaft and a dowel on the left lower of the cover will locate the cover when it's replaced. The dowel may come out with the cover, or stay in the engine case. Doesn't really matter. A 5mm hex removes the four stator bolts and the wire hold down. The rubber block pulls free. Wrap the stator in a cloth and support it while you clean the gasket surface on the engine. Do NOT use a file. Scrape with a fresh razor blade at an acute angle to remove the gasket. Be mindful that there are unmachined edges inside that CAN cut you. The gasket surface doesn't have to be "as new" but reasonably flat. If there are little bits left, its better to leave them rather than damage the surface scraping at them. Clean the gasket surface with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner or starting ether. Not much. I also like to take a rag and sop the oil on the surfaces just inside the gasket surface...it seems that sometimes oil tends to leach out onto the gasket surface even though its uphill (assuming you've tipped the bike to the right). Pick out any big pieces of gasket that may have fallen inside. Don't sweat little ones...the debris will be swept into the oilpan and filtered. Even if you lose a big one, don't spend any time worrying about it. If you lose a cleaning rag down in there, now that's something to worry about. Use silicone seal in the valley of the new cover where the rubber blocks will seal. Honda recommends a dab of silicone at the juncture of the cases. Some people like to use silicone on the entire gasket, on one or both sides. Your call. When I have time, i try to use thin silicone on both sides of the gasket because sometimes it comes off without tearing and I don't have to buy a new one. Sometimes. Pop the cover back on...sometimes a gentle tap gets it that last couple millimeters into place. (Don't forget the gasket.) Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern, button it up, and go for a ride to celebrate. Park in a clean place so you can check for leaks. Have beer, applaud yourself on being a mighty fixer of machines. Yay! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Very good write up Joe. You should do more of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 I like to use Honda Bond instead of silicone. Way easier to clean off the next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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