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rc46

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    1999 vfr 800

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  1. the difference between the marine and regular is the marine releases a protective vapor to combat gas tank corrosion.
  2. Interested in the windscreen, do you have any better pics of that?
  3. dot 5.1 is NOT the same as dot 5. It can be used in any system that specs 3 and 4. Motul makes it and is very good and what I use. As a bonus it doesn't eat paint like 3 and 4.
  4. there was a test a while back in one of the brit bike mags that tested premium vs regular gas in the bird and a few other bikes. All the bikes made more power with the premium and the bird was 2 or 3 hp stronger. I think with the knock sensors in the bird allowed it to take advantage of the higher octane and run a little more aggressive timing. I really wish ethanol would just go away as it causes vehicles to get noticeably worse fuel mileage as well as drivability issues in some(especially older) vehicles. At least in my neck of the woods our premium is 100% gas and top tire certified as well.
  5. As far as stator quality oem Honda is hard to beat. Excess heat is what kills all electrical parts. I did a write up on the sh775 reg install for those that are interested. The series reg is the way to go as it cuts the output of the stator way down when it isn't needed. Since the reg doesn't have to deal with very much excess current it doesn't run hot.(only warm to the touch). Both the stator and reg should have longer lives due to lower heat levels.
  6. Check out the new series regulators(shindegen sh775, etc) Its a fairly new technology, but a few new bikes come with them from the factory. They reduce the power produced from the stator if its not needed. This should give longer stator and regulator life as there is much less excess current(and the destructive heat) to have to get rid of. I posted a little while back my install of the sh775.
  7. +1 A hydraulic clutch will never feel like a cable one. Big bikes usually go to hydraulic clutches to lessen the clutch lever pressure.
  8. My oem harness was in perfect condition(I live in a dry climate), so I thought why not use it.(and the kit from roadstercycle only has about 10inches on stator wire on the plugs, so I had to use the factory harness to try this out). Jack from roadstercycle makes a very high quality kit and will do custom lengths for the wires so you can keep the joints down to the minimum. I work in the electrical industry so just a few words about crimp vs solder joints. A lot of people believe that solder joints are better, and this is simply not true. It all comes down to the quality of connectors, tools used, and the skill of the person. With that said, I crimped my joints(supplied in the kit as well as solder joints if you prefer). What I used were non insulated heat shrink 14/16 awg crimp butt joints. Over that I used a longer heat shrink and over all the wires pvc sheathing to protect it all. As to the more power, I could not feel it, but it should make a little more as the stator is only working half as hard most of the time, and it takes hp to generate electricity. Yes to the question of wired directly to the battery, and a maxifuse was used as they are more robust. Hope all this helps you guys, I wanted to pay it forward for all the tips I have gotten of this site in the past years.
  9. Hi guys, I just put in the sh775 series regulator on my 01. I was able to mount it in the stock location(rh rear side). I did make an aluminum bracket to make it all work. I wanted to keep a plug and play capability with my stator, so I just cut off the wires on the stock r/r and spliced into the stator wires(with the proper connectors and heat shrink) and capped off the rest of the unused wires. The kit I used(from roadstercycle...highly recommended) grounds directly to the battery, so that's why I capped off the rest of the wires. Anyway the results are after a spirited run for an hour or so the r/r is only warm to the touch, where as the stock r/r would burn you. This totally makes sense as the r/r is having to deal with a lot less current from the stator. All in all very happy with this r/r and the added bonus should be much longer stator life as well. I should also mention that the rear cowl fits no problem with lots of clearance around the r/r.
  10. Left hand side. Had it written down on the wall in the garage lol.
  11. Like Dave says, Iridium. Ngk IMR9c-9H. They are about 12 bucks on amazon, but last much longer. The recommended change interval is at every other valve check(32k miles) Oh and if you haven't changed out the plugs on a bird, remove the airbox and go in from the top, not how it says in service manual. Their way only works if your hands are the size of a Japanese child lol.
  12. I have the rs3 slip ons and run with the baffles in(too loud around town with them out and no noticeable power loss with them in) and as well a powercommander. They give a nice power boost from down low to up high with it most noticeable from 5-7k rpm. The full systems gain more up high, but at the expense of the low end. Hope this helps.
  13. rc46

    Yuasa battery

    I got a 12 cell ballistic lithium battery and it cranks it faster than stock. I have started it up down to about 40f with no problems. It is also about 6-7lbs lighter than stock which is nice especially up high on the bike.
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