pcinpdx

Sent you a PM. LMK if you're interested.

If I could save $160 rather than $100 I'd take em...

Hey John, Just put in an order for a CCT and some push-pins. Thanks for having these in stock and at such a great price!

Anyone have a straight front rim for an '02 that they want to sell for cheap? PM me with a price and let's see if we can work something out.

You might be in luck. I think I've still got my full set from when I put the wave rotors on my bike. The bonus is that I'll be in Eugene tomorrow (Thursday) for a cutover so we could hook up after I get done. I'll look for them when I get home tonight.

I've got the same one. Looks like prices have gone up as I got mine for $50 shipped but that was about a year ago. The build quality is decent and it works fine but I can tell you right now, it's no Givi, but for the price differential it's not a bad case. As far as that cheap ass universal plate goes, throw it in the garbage. It started bending on me within the first 400 miles and the case was bouncing around due to the wind buffet. Nothing a little bending and strategically placed duct tape couldn't handle but the plate is more of a hassle than it's worth. BTW, with a little finesse this case will marry up to a Givi rack...

Ahh yes. Lower viscosity headlight fluid works better in low light situations - kind of like ISO on a camera. I don't know why all these guys are getting HIDs when they could just use lower viscosity headlight fluid. Be careful though - the negative viscosity fluids will burn out the headlamp quicker.

I noticed the same when I changed my brakes this weekend. Since the dealership didn't have them in stock, I put everything back together without them. I've ordered the new ones. For my '02 the description and part number are: O-RING (2.5X1.5) 45111-MAJ-G41 Cost is $2.73 per ring. I figure it's just as well to spend <$10 for something to do with my brakes. I don't care how mundane the part is.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check the stock length vs. new length and take the bike in after I get everything installed to set sag, etc.

I'm just wondering if I'll still need to do the shim with the Penske. If I'm not mistaken, the Ohlin doesn't need the shim as it is ~6mm taller than the stock shock but I'm not sure of the Penske.

Check out this thread. Lots of good info in there.

I vote you take it back to stock and sell me the Penske for a fair price.

Damm it, I will have to throw on my 16T so I can keep up with you on 36. LoL...I'm doing that just so I can keep up enough to smell your exhaust! Check out http://www.whitebuffaloracing.net.

Thanks for the tip. I'll definitely consult the manual to make sure I've got the right numbers I'm almost positive that's what I'll do next time but if I can tear it down, see how it works and put it back together again without majorly fucking something up, it gives me some sense of accomplishment.