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StPeteXX

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About StPeteXX

  • Birthday 03/16/1908

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St Petersburg, FL
  • Interests
    motorcycles and chicks !!

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  1. I have the Yoshi RS3 full system. Love it. VERY LIGHT! The sound is great. Nice at idle and sounds great when you get on it. Not as harsh/loud as a D&D system. Did I mention it weighs almost nothing? Pics of it in my profile section. Rich
  2. That exhaust is just.... ORGASMIC !! No doubt it will sell quickly. Hang in there. Better times ahead! Rich
  3. Never bought anything from this seller. Just looking for XX stuff and found their listings. http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&...0&_from=R40 Rich
  4. Rear wheel & Tire: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/3341635508.html Calipers (may have cover you seek): http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/mcy/3337023430.html http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/3341167101.html 2003 GSXR 750 parting out: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/3338437222.html Front rim and calipers: http://southbend.craigslist.org/mcy/3336471299.html Happy hunting! Rich
  5. I'll triple check that when I get home. Thanks!! Rich
  6. A little backgound on my '97 XX. My R/R failed about 2 years ago. I replaced it with an inexpensive one from eBay. I got about 8 months out of it before it failed. In the process, it killed my Dyna 2000 ingnition (now repaired by Dyna with a new board), fried starter relay, cooked the battery and did unknown damage to the instrument panel. The instrument panel lights all come on, however none of the gauges work. No tach, no speedo, no fuel gauge. Grounds have been checked and rechecked. New R/R is from a GL1500, which will handle more than I will ever ask of it. Everything is repaird and back in working order with the exception of no gauges. Is there any service out there that repairs instrument panels? I have a very low mileage Bird (under 20k) so if I go used, a low mileage one would be necessary. Thanks for any help or guidance. Rich
  7. I will have to check out the details on it... I think FUXXT was my last event.. With the "Yellow Submarine" incident. Rich
  8. It's been too long. Time gets away from me these days. Kids, work.. you know.. Hope everyone is safe and well !! Can't wait to get back out riding ! Rich
  9. Hello everyone!! It has been forever. Life gets busy for sure. I had yet another RR fail and pretty much do some significant electrical damage. Dyna ignition, starter relay, battery, ect.... Last thing needing to be replaced is the digital instrument cluster. It's a 1997 but I switched it out with the digital cluster some years ago with another board member. I would like to install another digital cluster if anyone has one available. Thank you in advance. I miss riding my XX !!
  10. R/R replaced with new connector. Everything wired correctly. Bike was still dead. Nothing, no clock, headlights, nothing. Battery was fine. Turned out the connector on the starter relay was crispy too. Replaced that and all is well !! Bike runs great. No flickering of the HID anymore either. Thanks again for the help and guidance !! Rich
  11. Perhaps, but there is something called an "administrative cost" to doing things. You can spend 2 hours looking for something that will do the job a little cheaper, but what is that 2 hours of your time worth? I got the Fuzeblock for my XX, and it was almost $90 with shipping....ouch. Still, I don't have the skills of others here who could whip up a homemade device in an afternoon. To put something together with something cheaper would mean buying other parts needed to make it do the same thing. In the end, the guy did the design and testing to make a quality product. Unless I can make my own easily, it's worth the $$$ for someone who did the work for me. Paid almost $700 to fix the truck A/C at a shop (w/2 year warranty). Not happy about that, but I might have saved $100-150 in parts by doing it myself (but 1 year warranty max) and still have to bring it in for shop to evacuate and charge the system. Add in the time and aggravation to do it on my time, and the labor charge (while unwelcome) was easier than doing it myself. I only have reason to be pissed if the repair work doesn't last well beyond the warranty period. You pay to avoid the hassle of doing it the hard way. My thoughts exactly. I bought one right away. I have no desire to fabricate my own connector or spend forever searching for one. The spendy part was also the shipping. Originally they wanted just under $15. I had them verify if that was the correct shipping price as I typically can ship 16lb bowling balls anywhere in the US for about that same price. They gave me a "discount" code which reduced shipping to $7.50. Total is $21.xx shipped. Rich I'll keep ya posted on how it turns out.
  12. Their live chat pointed me towards: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...df80375317ce9ce Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do?
  13. I found this site for generic pin connectors for vehicles. http://www.vintageconnections.com/ The only problem is that you have to order like a bag of 5 of them for any given set. If you want the unlatching kind, you can just get the latching kind and snap the latch off so you always have the option. Thanks for the link. I checked the site. Which connector is it that I need? Any other ideas for a connector source? What have other's done? Rich
  14. Ok, so I went and pulled the fried rectifier. I pulled the connector off and sure enough, yellow end wire is burnt all to shit. Now, can I yank that wire out and simply replace the spade connector and plug it back in or will I need a complete new connector? Any clue what size spade connector it needs. Can post some pics if needed. Rich
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