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rca29

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About rca29

  • Birthday 02/11/1973

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  1. Thanks. I will try to 'read' the ECU and see if there was any error registered. I will try to keep this updated.
  2. I'm in Europe, and I believe that it might be hard to find any of those two (Seafoam or B-12 Chemtool). But if I understand correctly, we're talking about fuel additives, right? Sometimes it does feel like this is some kind of dirt in the fuel system problem...
  3. Thanks for your reply. I replaced the rectifier earlier this year, and I did all the tests as described in the service manual. I didn’t have any other electrical problems since then (battery related), so it wouldn’t be my first ‘target’, but it doesn’t hurt to check. Thanks.
  4. Hi there! One of these Sundays, I went for a ride and started to notice that the bike was choking at low rpm. In the meantime, I put more gas on the tank, went for a highway and although it was running fine at higher rpm, the FI light came on. I stopped the bike, and the idle was at 800-900 rpm. I turned the ignition off, turned the bike on again, the FI light was off and the idle back at ~1100 rpm. A few miles after that, I stopped for a coffee, and when I started the bike again, I had the FI light on again. I did the same thing (switch off and switch on), and the light went away, although it was choking a little at low rpm (2000 / 2500). I did a few miles after that like I had stolen the bike, and everything went back to normal. Nevertheless, I checked the “loom problem”, and I did have some work to do (I cleaned the contacts with WD40 as they had that ‘green stuff’). I never saw the FI light again and the bike seemed perfect after that, but today I went for a ride with some buddies (70km), but I did the last 10 km behind a new Honda Scooter (125cc and slow as hell). :icon_silenced: By the time I was arriving home, the bike started to choke again at low rpm and with low idle (again 800 rpm). I had a little space to give it some “heat” to around 7000 rpm, and it was fine again (normal iddle, normal response)! I have no FI light warning, but it seems obvious that something is still wrong in an intermittent way. If someone has a clue of what the problem could be, please let me know. Thanks for your help
  5. Thanks a lot for your help. In the meantime, I've read a lot of threads around here, and also did the tests from the manual. I have output from the stator (something like 9 volt at iddle and more than 40 volt when reving, but my battery wasn't fully charged yet). The continuity tests are all as stated in the manual, so I guess it must be a dead rectifier. I really don't understand why Honda still makes s**t like this, because my father's '95 VFR 750 had the same problem around the same mileage (19.000 miles), and this is a well know issue in several Honda bikes. Some recent models still have this issue. I guess that some of Honda's engineers were working too hard and sleeping in working hours.
  6. Hi there! It's been a while since my last visit here, but to be honest I haven't ride the 'Bird for quite a while. Today I went for a ride with my wife, so I left home, stopped 7 miles later and when I tried to start the engine again, the starter was slow and stopped. I then pushed the bike and got it running again and made something like 25 miles, stopped (in a downhill), and when I came back (10 minutes later) the same thing happened. Then I did 25 more miles, stopped for a launch (about 60 minutes) and when I got back, it started perfectly. When I got home (7 miles later), I started the engine again, and the starter was slow again. I measured the voltage with the engine idling, and this was the result: At 4.000 rpm, no big change… Bottom line, it isn’t charging the battery at all. What could it be? (Rectifier? How can I test it?) Cheers
  7. I started to notice that when i brake harder i feel that the bike vibrates a little, and i notice more with two up (something similar to warped rotors on a car). On the other hand, i've checked my head bearings and they ARE bad, so i'm going to have them replaced. My question is, do the bad head bearings can cause this kind of effect, or can i have warped rotors ? :???: I don't abuse on the brakes, but i'm starting to fear for the worse...
  8. I've been reading the service manual, and i've found out that it's the perfect time to paint the fork slider. :cool: Correct me if i'm wrong, but all this amount of work/time is to replace the lower and upper bearings only ? :shock: Just as curiosity, while i'm riding i don't notice anything wrong with the bike (maybe because i bought it used). What are the usual 'symptoms', and is it urgent to replace them ?
  9. After my morning ride, i was cleaning my bike and made a steering test that i was planning to do for a while. So, i lifted the front wheel and confirmed what i was suspecting: - When i turn the handlebars from side to side, i feel like 'stop' on the center position. A few months ago, i asked my honda guy to check the steering for me, but i suspect that he didn't checked anything. Assuming that this isn't the normal behaviour of the steering, My questions are: 1) What does this mean ? 2) How can this be fixed ? Is it a hard thing to do ? Thanks for your help
  10. That's something that mechanics always told NOT to do ! I've been told by more than one mechanic that the oil that comes on the engine from factory has some special additives that help in the run-in period... :headscratch: The service manual says " Recommended Oil: HONDA GN-4 4 stoke oil or equivalent motor oil; API service specification SF or SG; Viscosity 10-40W" and a chart to use other viscosity values depending on the average temperature. I don't have it here with me, but from what i remember, i can almost bet that the Portuguese Honda manual doesn't even talk about Honda Pro Oil. It depends on the year, it was Shell, then Castrol, currently Galp... It may say that on the USA owner's manual, but it doesn't say anything about it on the Portuguese one, and you can see the use of a soft brush to help cleaning the chain on Honda's service manual. What i'm trying to say is that there are things that Honda recommends (but says that it doesn't have to be exactly like that), while there are other things that Honda almost 'warns' you about. Running-in is one of them, and they 'warn' us to avoid rapid acceleration and to keep it below a certain r.p.m. until a certain mileage has been reached. Personally, i find it very hard to believe that any modern engine would break just because it was ridden hard since the first day. I've always heard a few people saying that a hard running-in would give more horse-power...and i'm not saying that it won't. My only concern is the premature wear out of the engine...but i admit that i might have a wrong conception, given by the manufacters owners manuals. That's why i bought a second hand 'XX, so i don't have to worry myself with running-in :wink:
  11. I bought my '99 with 11000 miles, and it always made that noise. When i start my bike from cold, the engine revs up to +-1.500 r.p.m. (it's difficult to hear the noise at this point). After a minute or so, the engine drops the iddle speed to the 900 - 1000 r.p.m. range. At this point, the engine isn't at it's normal operating temperature yet, so the iddle is not "100%" stable (it is slightly irregular), and that's when i start to hear the clutch noise. After it warms up (to the normal operating temperature) the noise goes away. It's strange and a little annoying at first, but a lot of Bird's do the same noise, so...i don't care about it anymore. And i've also found out a way of not earing the noise: when the iddle speed drops, i start ridding it (gently) until the temperature is at it's normal operating range. But i also have my left clutch cover scraped... :sad:
  12. Ok. So i might assume that the engine design and technology has evolved, but the owner's manuals didn't ? :roll: It might be the best break-in method, but not for my engines. I'm one old-fashioned guy, who has the strange ideia that the engineers that develop hi-performance and hi-reliability engines in Honda (and all the other major brands) should know a little bit about the best method for break-in an engine, but...i might be wrong !
  13. Never used it. I only use mineral oil (currently Shell Helix 20w50). Can you feel the smell of burned oil from the upcoming oil flame war ? :twisted:
  14. In Portugal, we only have 95 and 98 octane fuel. :grin: I tried both of them and i never noticed ANY difference... :roll: except for the price of it...
  15. I always lube my chain with the recomended gear 80-90w oil and apply it with a brush (an toothbrush to be more precise). I don't remember where i found someting very similar to this, but... http://motorcycles.about.com/cs/maintenanc...tolubachain.htm
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