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1968 Moto Guzzi V7 Restoration


RXX

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One of the issues the Convert has is a dead alternator rotor, open circuit in the winding.  When I looked around previously they were a few hundred bucks so I didn't do it.  Found a used one on ebay yesterday for $55, ordered.  Hopefully it's the only problem with the charging system, guess I'll find out.

 

The Guzzi uses a very car-like alternator, but driven straight off the front of the crank instead of a pulley.  From what I could find the rotor isn't an off the shelf part adapted to the bike, it's Guzzi specific.

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Sounds like you may have it handled.

 

There's guy Ray in your neighborhood that is good Honda mechanic that used to rewind stators. 

 

 

4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

One of the issues the Convert has is a dead alternator rotor, open circuit in the winding.  

 

..., it's Guzzi specific.

 

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On 4/25/2021 at 6:56 AM, JoWhee said:

Nice, I noticed your desired outcome will have no back seat, why the monoposto?  

Either way: gorgeous. 

 

That picture is just a serving suggestion. I am keeping the stock seat. It was stowed out of the elements and is in great shape. Same for the tank. Except the chrome pads had been painted over so it will be finished back to original appearance. 

I am trying to keep as many existing parts as possible.

The mufflers are not stock, as are the carburetors. Finding them stock is going to be a bitch.

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On 4/28/2021 at 10:06 AM, superhawk996 said:

I hope I didn't steal your Guzzi thread with my project.  Motivator; mine's running so get off your ass! 🙂

 

Not at all. I have seen some threads go more sideways than this. BTW, if you see any old Dellortos, give me a shout. 

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On 4/29/2021 at 9:35 AM, superhawk996 said:

One of the issues the Convert has is a dead alternator rotor, open circuit in the winding.  When I looked around previously they were a few hundred bucks so I didn't do it.  Found a used one on ebay yesterday for $55, ordered.  

 

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=90618.0

 

 

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On 4/24/2021 at 7:50 AM, RXX said:

I have become fully committed now. Hopefully this will be the end result:

 

 

 

7F489B5C-4216-4C0F-9F4D-006FAC1B0142.jpeg

I like the look of the single seat, looks very sporty.

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2 hours ago, XXitanium said:

The stator doesn't seem to be a problem with these, but the rotor goes out around 50k miles, this bike has 55k and a dead rotor.  I found a new OEM on ebay and it's on it's way.

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Just found a better picture of my goose, ca. 1993 in Louisville, KY right after purchase. Modeling this beautiful bike is my beautiful daughter, D1.

 

The bike will go to her when I’m dead.

 

 

5484B2CD-60CD-4A15-9188-9B91A5BD62F1.jpeg

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Analysis of oil that has been in the motor since 1997-98. I am not a tea leaf reader, but it looks to me like a tear down and inspection. Last motorcycle engine rebuild I did was in 1986 on a sportster.

This bike does not use an oil filter. It has a mesh screen strainer.

 

 

MGV7-210415.pdf

Edited by RXX
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I'm with blackstone.  Change the oil and run it. I'd change the oil, run it 'til it starts and runs down the road reliably, change the oil, put 500 or so miles on it, and then send another sample.  That will be over the winter at earliest and you'll be able to plan future work on the bike.

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3 hours ago, RXX said:

Analysis of oil that has been in the motor since 1997-98. I am not a tea leaf reader, but it looks to me like a tear down and inspection. Last motorcycle engine rebuild I did was in 1986 on a sportster.

This bike does not use an oil filter. It has a mesh screen strainer.

 

 

MGV7-210415.pdf 17.29 kB · 7 downloads

Did you run the engine before draining?  Also, at what point during draining did you pull the sample; right after plug out, around half way drained, near end of drain?

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9 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Did you run the engine before draining?  Also, at what point during draining did you pull the sample; right after plug out, around half way drained, near end of drain?

 

No, the bike had been sitting for20+ years without the gas tank, the carbs were froze up, the battery was well, 20 years out of a charge.

It turns over pretty easily using a wrench on the generator belt shaft. I drained the oil and mixed pretty vigorously. I told Blackstone this. 

 

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I was thinking that if it had sat all this time you could have gotten a large concentration of settled metals in the sample throwing it off, but if you mixed it all up that shouldn't be the case.  Unless you want to do a tear down I'd wait.  Run it, see how it sounds, then send in another sample.  If there's no bad sounds from it I doubt you could hurt it by running it and that would let you get more data before getting further into the project.

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The carbs should clean up pretty easily as long as they're not corroded.  Hook up a battery and fire that bitch up!

 

You had said something about your carbs not being stock; what's on it and is there a reason to swap back other than originality?  If it's not some kind of hack job swap just run with them.

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On my quest for an alternator rotor: I ordered one, then was messaged saying they couldn't find it.  The same seller had another one in a different listing with much higher mileage which I didn't like, but I ordered it anyway.  Right after that I found another person selling a "NOS" rotor for not much more so I cancelled the second and ordered the NOS.  When I took the protective sleeve off the slip rings it was obviously used, but very little so I was gonna let it go, but the measured resistance is double of spec., 7 ohms and it should be 3.5.  I messaged them and they refunded me.  He had bought out a dealership's entire stock, saw this was still in the box and assumed it was new.  My guess is that someone installed it then realized it was defective and it was never returned to the supplier.  I'll probably install it and see what it does.  In theory it should do something which should let me know if the rest of the system works before I hunt down another rotor.

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27 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

The carbs should clean up pretty easily as long as they're not corroded.  Hook up a battery and fire that bitch up!

 

You had said something about your carbs not being stock; what's on it and is there a reason to swap back other than originality?  If it's not some kind of hack job swap just run with them.

 

I just got a set of Dellortos (thanks Bill). My intent is to get it as close to stock as possible. The air box on this series does not play well with others apparently. 

 

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Interesting. Pulled the rubbers off the foot rests and found evidence of a pretty hard drop. Cleaned it up and it should work. I just need to keep an eye out for anything else like this. 

When I bought the bike I sort of had an idea I was dealing with a pig with lipstick, but it ran fine, so I did not go into a lot of effort into inspecting it.

 

Got all the parts ready to go get powder coated. 

0655E4EE-C1DE-4A71-9F8A-F8E35FF3A33B.jpeg

42252D55-8A30-45B8-98DA-C0094912F9A4.jpeg

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