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stator test


Dotetcher

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Having some charging issues (only 12.7 volts @ 5000 rpm) nad am looking for the info on how to test the stator. REplaced stator and rectifier a number of years ago on my first bird but can't find the thread. Just want to rule out the stator before i buy a new rectifier. plug into rectifier looks awesome for a 23 year old bike. No corrosion.

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A quick and dirty stator tester. Three identical 100 watt light bulbs should light equally to about half Brilliance at about 3 or 4000 RPM. The service manual gives the proper testing procedure using a multimeter. According to Jack at roadstercycle you should see about 16 volts ac per thousand RPM across any 2 of the 3 yellow wires

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Edited by joblock
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Honda shows the 97 stator as no longer available. I have found a lot of negative reviews on nearly all the aftermarket Stators. The fuel injected stator is apparently still available from Honda. I've read that it is higher capacity but that's not necessarily a good thing if you don't need the extra capacity. As I understand the system it will just put extra strain on the regulator rectifier. If money is No Object a new fi stator from Honda and a series regulator from roadstercycle would be the ultimate.

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The xtra capacity is always good as I run heated gear in the colder weather. I've put the higher capacity stator in my last 97 and if not mistaken I think an R1 rectifier was also part of the fix. Its been quite a while and my memory sucks.

 

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16 hours ago, joblock said:

 If money is No Object a new fi stator from Honda and a series regulator from roadstercycle would be the ultimate.

 

If you plan to keep the bike can you really afford not to? Also, second the voltmeter mounted on the dash.

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21 hours ago, Dotetcher said:

OK. Pretty sure stator is fried. I'm getting maybe 5 volts AC max across acouple of the yellowx. So recommendations on new stators for a "97?

 

How did you measure?  If you have the leads in two yellows I have no idea what a good one will read, and since you're only seeing 5v my guess is that's what you did.  AFAIK you should have your red lead in a yellow and black on a ground, altho reversing them would also work fine.  I believe you should see around 50-60v revved up and each of the three yellows should show a similar voltage.  If your stator was only putting out 5v. I'm pretty sure you'd have no charging and you do have some.

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We seem to have lost the troubleshooting guide in the useful thread section.

This https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle

Should work.  I do remember unloaded voltages at 60 volts AC.

Check the connector between the stator and the r/R. I lost charging due to the connector burning.

 

I finally put a Ricks stator and a series regulator on mine, with no more failures.  Sorry, I forget what type of regulator. It's been a few years.

Challenges. Bike is a 01. Regulator is mounted in the tail, upper right.

Earlier bikes were mounted different.  I mounted the replacement where the original was. It required a aluminum plate to adapt the regulator to the OEM mounting holes.

I also used a BMW electrical connector, cut and removed the other connectors. The BMW connector is the newer, hi current, waterproof design.

 

A failed stator usually is burned in appearance. You can remove the cover, and look at it.  If you are lucky, the paper gasket won't tear, and you can reuse it.

The conversions available when I did mine, assumed that I was using my OEM connector. Mine had burned pins. That is why I used the BMW plug.

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This may help

 

Fault finding guide

 

I simply measured the resistance between all phase combinations, they were all equal so I believe that confirms a good stator.

 

I have upgraded to an Electrosport and Shindengen Mosfet R/R as my original R/R was shot.  The stator I bought is for the FI, even though mine is a carbie.  2 advantages, firstly, higher output to power my accessories, secondly, the connector wires are long enough to reach the R/R on my bike without any joints.  Win win.

Edited by JaBr
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10 hours ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

Ok, what's the price differential on a Ricks stator vs the FI later model? Which is preferable for longevity?

 

The longevity of the stator is directly related to the type of R/R it is connected to. "Old style" shunt types clamp down on excess voltage on 1 leg only to achieve max 14.5V.  Mosfet type R/R's such as FH020AA clamp down on all 3 legs equally, spreading the load and the heat.  This is akin to a 3 wheeled car having brakes on 1 wheel vs all 3 wheels.  The series R/R mentioned by joblock above i.e. SH847 is more  sophisticated again and puts even less stress on the stator giving it the longest possible life no matter OEM or Rick's. 

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I paid $144 for my Ricks stator. Old rectifier. 14.5 volts at Idle. drops to a little over 13 when rpms are brought up. Think I may replace the rectifier also. The old R1 fix worked on my last xx. Much cheaper than Honda. Like Ricks! Stator definately was fried. Basically 5 volts across two of the yellow wires. Now about 25 volts at idle and up over 50 when revved.

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I would guess that your regulator / rectifier is probably bad. But if a new one exhibits the same behavior( falling voltage with an increase in RPM) I would investigate direct connecting the regulator to the battery. Falling voltage is a common problem on the Suzuki SV. It's usually caused by inadequate size factory wiring plus a bunch of unnecessary connectors. The Cure is to connect regulator directly to the battery with at least 12 gauge wire. I've done this on several SV's and it's always been successful.

Edited by joblock
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  on the cream-colored connector you depress the metal Tang on the Spade terminal. on the white colored connector you remove the u-shaped lock piece and then release the plastic catch at the side of the terminal.

H

 

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