97bbxx Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 hey guys new to this forum. The names Kevin. I just bought my blackbird last week the only issue I have not been able to trace down is my lowbeams are intermittent which is weird I replaced both the left and right switch clusters checked the wiring to make sure everything is seated correctly and all the pins looked good. I changed both bulbs just to be safe. I have hi beams but still can not figure the other one out. Any hints would be great. Also on a side note does anyone know of a good site for aftermarket parts for this bike such as cams and such. I found a good clutch already but it seems like anything else is hard to come by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Check your grounds for corrosion or just run a new ground to the headlights to eliminate that as a potential issue. Since you've replaced the low/high switch (hopefully with a new one and not a used one that could have potential issues of it's own), the only other possible thing could be a bad connection at the fuse terminal but I'm not sure if the 97 has a dedicated fuse for the low beam alone. Maybe instead of just checking the seating you should detach the connectors and see if you have corrosion inside the connector itself. I had that on my 99 but the source on those is a terminal that is used for diagnostics on the FI bikes which yours doesn't have. If you have that, it should be just that connector and not full lengths of wiring that need replacement unless the bike suffered serious neglect. There's not a whole lot of us that have had to go internal on these engines as they are pretty much bulletproof, so internal modification help will be few and far between. It's a snowball effect as cams mean timing changes, jetting the carbs, might as well do exhaust, go ahead and turbo, well this deep let's put a strut/slick/wheelie bars/nitrous and now you're at Kent Stotz. 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Check connector between main harness and front section. It is inside of front fairing, on the left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 33 minutes ago, Furbird said: Check your grounds for corrosion or just run a new ground to the headlights to eliminate that as a potential issue. Since you've replaced the low/high switch (hopefully with a new one and not a used one that could have potential issues of it's own), the only other possible thing could be a bad connection at the fuse terminal but I'm not sure if the 97 has a dedicated fuse for the low beam alone. Maybe instead of just checking the seating you should detach the connectors and see if you have corrosion inside the connector itself. I had that on my 99 but the source on those is a terminal that is used for diagnostics on the FI bikes which yours doesn't have. If you have that, it should be just that connector and not full lengths of wiring that need replacement unless the bike suffered serious neglect. There's not a whole lot of us that have had to go internal on these engines as they are pretty much bulletproof, so internal modification help will be few and far between. It's a snowball effect as cams mean timing changes, jetting the carbs, might as well do exhaust, go ahead and turbo, well this deep let's put a strut/slick/wheelie bars/nitrous and now you're at Kent Stotz. 🤣 I'll pull them apart and look i didn't check the ground so I'll do that as well. And yea it is a snowball affect your right haha that gave me a good laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOXXIC Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Welcome to the Asylum!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 I figured it out and don't know how I missed it. The wires On the back side of the light hosing were coroded and causing a bad connection appreciate the help guys 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 With you being in PA you are very close to a number of well educated blackbird owners and one person in particular that has just about most any stock part needed for any year Blackbird and is an honest straight shooter as a bonus!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 I need to get to know them haha I literally don't k ow anyone here or that has a bike at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) Check out the ride events thread and plan on attending NeXXT in Sept right there in PA. Edited April 27, 2020 by John01XX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 6 hours ago, John01XX said: Check out the ride events thread and plan on attending NeXXT in Sept right there in PA. Thanks man ima definitely have to go to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I think there's a trick where you install a stock exhaust cam on the intake side, or vice-versa, for a small gain. If you google CBR1200XX you might find some of the details of a custom "50th Anniversary" build. I know it got cams, but don't know if they give a manufacturer or other details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 What size sprockets do you guys run i was considering a 48 tooth but I don't want to change to drastically. I want it a little more torque and not to worried about loossing top speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Most of us just dropped a tooth on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptxyz Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 +1 on a 16t front to increase low end acceleration. rears are 44 or 45t. besides a supersprox, i was unable to find other sizes for the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Fronts are available from 12-18 in steel, but most rears are limited in size unless you go aluminum. Aluminum will wear faster. All that to say another vote for -1 up front and ride on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) Thats what I noticed with the rears and thats what I wanted to do but I have not found a 16t for the front yet cause thats what I'd rather do. Ignore all that I found it and ordered it haha I swear I can sit here for hours and not find it. Then I post on here and then search and its the first damn one I look at hahaha Edited April 28, 2020 by 97bbxx I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Don't know how long you've been riding but don't trust the notches on the chain adjustment when you go to tighten it (which you will have to do going -1 up front.) My street bird is dead on but my dragbike wasn't even in the same damn ballpark. My Victory is much MUCH worse though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 4 minutes ago, Furbird said: Don't know how long you've been riding but don't trust the notches on the chain adjustment when you go to tighten it (which you will have to do going -1 up front.) My street bird is dead on but my dragbike wasn't even in the same damn ballpark. My Victory is much MUCH worse though. My bird seems to be pretty accurate as well but ill keep that in mind when the new sprockets and chain come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 For cams, you will likely have to send your stock ones to a company that specializes in weld-up and re-grind. Probably at least a $600 endeavor. However, you will also need some good head porting to get much out of a new cam grind. I think someone here once built a kick-ass N/A Bird motor, and said the best flow numbers he could get was no better than a bone stock gen 1 Busa head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 1 hour ago, jon haney said: For cams, you will likely have to send your stock ones to a company that specializes in weld-up and re-grind. Probably at least a $600 endeavor. However, you will also need some good head porting to get much out of a new cam grind. I think someone here once built a kick-ass N/A Bird motor, and said the best flow numbers he could get was no better than a bone stock gen 1 Busa head. I was figuring thats was the route I was gonna end up having to go which I'm fine with. That gives me a good heads up so I appreciate it. There wouldn't happen to be a thread on that build would there. I'll start looking itd be good to see what all he did and specs if there were any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joblock Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Jon has had some success with a high-performance blackbird( gross understatement) 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 13 minutes ago, joblock said: Jon has had some success with a high-performance blackbird... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 7 hours ago, jon haney said: I think someone here once built a kick-ass N/A Bird motor Northman. I don't know if his build is still on here or the size he ended up with. As I remember, he parted the blue Bird out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97bbxx Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 2 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: Northman. I don't know if his build is still on here or the size he ended up with. As I remember, he parted the blue Bird out. I'll start looking that would be awesome if its still on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 (edited) Thanks, guys. Appreciate the recognition, but I really can't take credit for the (minor) improvements in engine performance. I just paid attention to what others here have posted. 97bbxx, if you do bigger pistons, pay close attention to the "squish area" (piston to head clearance). IIRC, You want about .030". Really bumped the torque on mine. Had to cut .060" off the top of the cylinders to get it there, but that was with Wiseco pistons. Have no idea where the compression ratio ended up, but it ran great on 87 octane for over ten years. This is not piston-to-valve clearance. You'll want more space for that. At least .040", I think. Edited May 1, 2020 by jon haney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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