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Radiator size


NoOne65

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Thas what I am going to do but without tearing mine apart I dont know the rad size...I have to buy 2 because the one I have has melted by the headers...its not OEM and I have forgotten where I purchased it from 3 years ago!

 

 

Edited by NoOne65
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Quote ~ "

The radiator is aluminum and from Ron Davis Racing Radiator in the Phoenix area.

The cost was just about the same as the stock Honda and it has a larger capacity.

However, I had to do some cutting on the plastic located just behind the front wheel and add an extension to the bottom red mount. Not too bad if you have a schrol or band saw.

The Ph # for Ron Davis is 623-877-5000.

The model they sent me was #10-1030 however that was for a 97 Bird and mine is a 2002. There is a difference between the two. You can mail them your rad and they'll match it."

 

I've been thinking about this mod myself.

 

 

post-24907-1306169189.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

So Ended up getting a pair of SPAL 6.5" fans. I am thinking I should probably use a relay? MFG suggests 13A fuse for one fan but I cant recall OHMs law to figure what they will be in parallel. Opinions? suggestions?

99CBRXX DUAL RAD FANS.jpg

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I'll throw this out here for the experts to shoot holes in:

 

I think SPAL says use a 15 amp fuse at 13 volts for that VA22-AP11/C-50A * 6.5"S/12V fan, so two fans in parallel, two 15 amp circuits.  Your main fuse is a 30 amp and the alternator is 460 watts output, which at 13 volts would be a tad over 35 amps total.  That sounds like a pretty big fan load unless the fans pull a lot less than the 15 amps.

 

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I've never heard of a 13a fuse, but you'd want one for each fan.  I'm guessing FiXX is probably right with the 15a suggestion, and everything else he said.  The fans are most likely to run while you're riding low speeds or stopped, when the bike is making the least amount of current.  The charging system's output rating is probably the max it'll do, at idle it'll be much less.  I've never heard of a Bird overheating without having a cause, seems like you're trying to cure a non-existent problem and going way overkill with it.  If you're gonna do it you probably need to re-wire the fan system pulling the power from a relay feeding off the battery instead of through the stock fan circuit.  Even better would be to run one fan off the factory trigger (possibly with a relay depending on its amperage draw) and the other off a separate thermostat that'll come on at either a lower or higher temp so that both will rarely or never run.  Or just run the stock fan, or maybe one of those if they pull more air than stock.

 

With so little space I'm surprised you're able to fit those.  Hopefully they'll survive the header heat and not cause more problems than you're already facing.

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If those mounting bolt heads are resting on the tubes expect holes, if they're not the fans are loosing efficiency.  The further they are from the rad the less air they'll pull through the rad.

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7 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I've never heard of a 13a fuse, but you'd want one for each fan.  I'm guessing FiXX is probably right with the 15a suggestion, and everything else he said.  The fans are most likely to run while you're riding low speeds or stopped, when the bike is making the least amount of current.  The charging system's output rating is probably the max it'll do, at idle it'll be much less.  I've never heard of a Bird overheating without having a cause, seems like you're trying to cure a non-existent problem and going way overkill with it.  If you're gonna do it you probably need to re-wire the fan system pulling the power from a relay feeding off the battery instead of through the stock fan circuit.  Even better would be to run one fan off the factory trigger (possibly with a relay depending on its amperage draw) and the other off a separate thermostat that'll come on at either a lower or higher temp so that both will rarely or never run.  Or just run the stock fan, or maybe one of those if they pull more air than stock.

 

With so little space I'm surprised you're able to fit those.  Hopefully they'll survive the header heat and not cause more problems than you're already facing.

They are actually only 2" deep so they fit fine compared to the 2 3/4" the previous fan was and the headers melted that one good!

 

I like your Idea of running them split.  

Edited by NoOne65
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14 hours ago, FiXXation said:

I'll throw this out here for the experts to shoot holes in:

 

I think SPAL says use a 15 amp fuse at 13 volts for that VA22-AP11/C-50A * 6.5"S/12V fan, so two fans in parallel, two 15 amp circuits.  Your main fuse is a 30 amp and the alternator is 460 watts output, which at 13 volts would be a tad over 35 amps total.  That sounds like a pretty big fan load unless the fans pull a lot less than the 15 amps.

 

 

also I was looking at the wrong fan spec...these are 6.5A at startup

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7 hours ago, NoOne65 said:

also I was looking at the wrong fan spec...these are 6.5A at startup

MUCH better, that seems pretty reasonable.  If the stock system can handle one that'll simplify things, if not, use a relay for the power handling and the stock fan power lead to activate the relay.  You can get an adjustable thermostat to run the other one and set it to a lower or higher temp, whichever you prefer.  The thermostat I'm thinking of has a long thin rod that goes through the radiator fins so it senses the temperature off the surface.  The rod is super long to work with thick radiators, you can chop it.

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