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F350 Project Compilation


rockmeupto125

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Well, this reminds me, I need to complete my portion of this thread.

 

Truck started blowing white smoke, no codes but wouldn't run for shit.  Had to take it to the dealer for a $150 scan.  I got the printouts, everything looked good except the EGR was stuck.  They could install a new one for $1100 after deducting the cost of the scan. 

 

Jess and I put an EGR delete kit in it.  Could not have done it without her tiny hands.  Much of it was either you can't see it, you can only feel it, or you can see it, but you can't reach it without losing sight of it. It started, ran, didn't make horrible noises, and didn't make white smoke in mosquito fogging quantities.

 

With time crunch, lots of little things didn't get done, but we made it to Racer and back.

 

New headlights didn't get installed.  Present headlights suck.

Didn't get rear view cameras installed. Had to do it the old way.

New stereo...still won't play video.  Grounding wire hooked to ground. Crutchfield support is pleasant, but limited to "you must connect the pink wire to the parking brake" which is just about offensively stupid.

Disappointed with fuel mileage, but we did weigh 15k pulling a flat front trailer.

Did not really notice hills. 

Had to top off the coolant a few times as the system purged.  Nothing on the 1000 mile return trip. Waiting on nitrate test strips.

Looks like a rear main seal leak is the source of a 5 quart loss of oil during the trip. There's another thousand dollars unless I pull the tranny myself (groan).

 

Now gas is $2 and my blue truck with a new set of cats gets 19mpg, diesel is $2.65 and the red truck gets 19mpg.  I can't win.

 

 

 

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According to a friend of mine still installing car audio systems, these new screens don't just look for ground to display video, but for the voltage of the circuit at the other end.  A truck your age probably has a literal bulb in the dash that illuminates when the parking brake is on (bulb is hot when the key is on, ground comes from the parking brake switch), so the screen is looking for the resistance that a bulb would have.  You also have to realize that a DC circuit through a filament bulb actually does show voltage on the ground side and ground on the voltage side when it's illuminated (that is a solid wire connection, hence the resistance of the bulb.)

 

Get a small bulb on a pigtail (like a marker light socket off of a parts vehicle or whatever you have laying around that takes a 194-type push-in bulb), attach the hot side to the accessory/ignition wire that goes into your radio, ground the other side, attach the pink wire to the ground side of the bulb, cover the bulb in electrical tape and shove it behind the radio in the dash somewhere.  The radio will "think" the parking brake bulb is illuminated.  If your parking brake switch actually provides power to the bulb in the dash (highly unlikely) just switch the pink wire to the other side.  Little trickier on the newer stuff as the LED versions will actually pulse the wire and the screens look for the pulse.

We used to do something tricky like this back in the day to protect tweeters.  People would put tweeters on amps and have so much distortion that the amps would clip, causing DC to go to the tweeters, which would blow them.  We soldered dome light bulbs in line with the tweeter and the bulbs would light up to literally burn off the voltage and save the tweeter.  There was one company that actually made a tweeter filter/crossover that did this same exact thing.  You could open the box and all it had in it was a dome light bulb.  When the tweeter stopped working, you open the box, replace the bulb, and back to destroying your hearing in no time.

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16 hours ago, OMG said:

There is a 2000 F350 I'm looking at at auction in Billings with hail damage. I've bid it up to $3750 a couple times, not accepted.

There are a few around at $6K. This one has 236k miles.

Any point in going much past 4500?  I'm dodge cummins 5.9 so the 7.3 would be different.

resizer.jpeg

The following is assuming the truck runs well and doesn't have any big issues other than the hail, using my California pricing, AND I'm taking Covid out of the equation:

I can't see the hail damage, I can't imagine it going for less than $6k.  If the hail damage is as minimal as it seems to be from the photo my guess is $8k minimum street value.  Right now should be a good time to buy from auctions, or even private party.  Most of the auction buyers are dealers and I'm guessing they're not getting many sales so they're not buying much.  Assuming the small independent dealers are even open, haven't paid attention.  IF you're over it and it's still available I'd love a link to it.

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https://www.iaai.com/SalesList/361/04082020

Auction is the 8th

They have changed rules, I can no longer get on the lot to see it. It does look like a nice truck.

I have a 99 dodge that does all that I ask. For your business the ford makes sense.

I don't really need it, If you want, I'll bid it for you, let me know your max. Of course you need to be a buyer, $200/year.

You need to account for all the fees, 5K and above adds 15%, bid fee around $100, get out of jail fee $59.

There has not been much interest for this truck, it's been in 4 sales I think.

 

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Auction is marked "other" and "hail", you can definitely see the dents on the closeup.  Clean title, and if it's not bringing that then the people that have gone and seen it must be avoiding it like the plague.

https://www.iaai.com/vehicledetails/35948148/60

Car sales are way low down here, as are all the shops.  Unemployment skyrocketing, some of my dealers have closed out of caution but the state order excludes them from the mandatory stay at home the governor announced yesterday.  We're number 3 on March's background check report though, so gun store owners will be buying Bugatti's.

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With the new rules, you can't go see it.

It's an odd thing, the last auction I bought a tool trailer and probably paid too much considering repairs needed, it was desirable.

Same auction had a late model GMC 1/2 ton low miles hail damage that sold for $3250, regular lot price is around 8K.

You just never know. My son bought a low miles VW diesel sedan for $1250, small dent in a front fender that another son bumped out.

This is Dodge country : )

 

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6 hours ago, Furbird said:

 We're number 3 on March's background check report though, so gun store owners will be buying Bugatti's.

 

A good box sells for $1,500 with very little resistance. The tail gate in very good condition is at least $400. 

 

...I'd still have most of the truck left.. .

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22 hours ago, XXitanium said:

Is there rust under those black fender flares?

Montana - we don't know what rust is.

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https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/d/eau-claire-2002-f350-crew-cab-long-bed/7093920153.html

 

No pictures, but he says there is rust. Montana is a different language completely, $4,500 but doesn't seem too bad for the truck you posted.

 

At this price and crappy description, I'd bet the one below is complete junk.

 

https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/cto/d/glenwood-city-diesel-truck/7102014732.html

 

Edited by XXitanium
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14 hours ago, OMG said:

https://www.iaai.com/SalesList/361/04082020

Auction is the 8th

They have changed rules, I can no longer get on the lot to see it. It does look like a nice truck.

I have a 99 dodge that does all that I ask. For your business the ford makes sense.

I don't really need it, If you want, I'll bid it for you, let me know your max. Of course you need to be a buyer, $200/year.

You need to account for all the fees, 5K and above adds 15%, bid fee around $100, get out of jail fee $59.

There has not been much interest for this truck, it's been in 4 sales I think.

 

They used a shitty ass camera, got interior photos of all but the driver's seat, and didn't take any of the roof.  Maybe they're just stupid, but guessing they're doing their best to make it seem better than it is.  If it was something that someone could put eyes on, or if it were closer I'd be chompin at the bit.  Seems a bit odd that it's been auctioned a few times and they didn't accept the bids.  I'll do a little investigating, I might have you bid on it or figure out how to bid myself.  

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34 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

and didn't take any of the roof

Unless you are tall ya can't see the roof.

In your experience would it pull as well as the cummins?

It has a bigger turbo & running a straight 4" exhaust 

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7 minutes ago, OMG said:

Unless you are tall ya can't see the roof.

In your experience would it pull as well as the cummins?

It has a bigger turbo & running a straight 4" exhaust 

Depends on what year Cummins you compare it to, the specs for both engines changed a lot through the years.  Then you enter the world of tuners and modifications and it all goes out the window since they can both be tweaked.  I like Ford trucks and I like the Cummins, the only thing that could make my 7.3 Excursion better than it is would be a Cummins.  Mostly because I like the sound of a straight 6 diesel more than the V-8.

 

Which has a bigger turbo and 4" exhaust?

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If I already had a Cummins Dodge and I didn't need something different I'd stay with it.  Same goes for someone with a Ford 7.3.  Unless you're seeking something that the other brand has it's usually best to stick with the beast you know rather than start all over.  I've gotten to know the 7.3 pretty well and I'm comfortable with it.  I fell in love with them in '95 when I worked at AT&T which had a brand new fleet of them, including my service truck.  Part of that is a Ford love that probably has no relation to them actually being better than Dodge or Chevy.  I think the only factory Ford with a Cummins is a few years of F-650, maybe 550, and if one popped up for less than stupid money I'd buy it.  I'd be that retard that drives a medium duty truck everywhere just because it's cool as fuck.

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29 minutes ago, OMG said:

Unless you are tall ya can't see the roof.

But it plays into the value.  If there's visible hail damage elsewhere anyone with half a brain is gonna look at the roof and if it's fucked up it'll drop the value.

Edited by superhawk996
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6 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

If I already had a Cummins Dodge and I didn't need something different I'd stay with it.

Well all righty then, I like my old dodge, I'll stay. Now we just need to work out how much for the ford and when you want me to deliver.

With the straight exhaust, people usually know it's me.

Two sons pulled a big 5th wheel to here from S Dakota, when they got back the oldest thanked me for fixing his car.

Before the trip he thought his car was loud, with the turbo wound up and the straight pipe bounced off the trailer, well, perspective.

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5 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Because it sounds like a bigger can of bolts?

The power stroke is more rattly/crackly, the Cummins sounds more like a big rig.  Almost all HD trucks use a straight 6 engine.  I heard a Jeep 4.0 with a turbo and open pipe once, it had a very similar sound, just without any diesel cackle.  The other sound that always made me smile with the Cummins is when you shut it off and get a quick chirp from the accessory belt, newer ones don't do it.  Actually, none of the newer diesels have any of the sounds that diesel used to have.

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1 hour ago, OMG said:

Now we just need to work out how much for the ford and when you want me to deliver.

April 16, a truck would make a great 50th B-day present!  $4,999 would be good place to stop, keep below that $5k fee window.  I assume they only charge fees if you win and it's free to bid. -?

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1 minute ago, superhawk996 said:

I assume they only charge fees if you win and it's free to bid. -?

correct

 I'll bid 4275. That will tip it just over 5k.

For that much I know ranchers here that will take it.

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