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Amazon Product link:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9MRA14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Normally priced around $200 USD.  I’m asking for $150 and I’ll ship anywhere in the continental USA.

 

After much frustration, I’m pulling this unit off the RS and replacing it with a Fuze Block FZ-1.  Purchased on May 11, 2019 and still under the manufacturer 1-year warranty.  Should you install it and it doesn’t work properly (programming can be tricky), I will deal with the manufacturer if needed, but I’ll also include a copy of the purchase receipt.

 

This device offers up to 40 amps total load across 6 circuits with a 20 amp max on one particular circuit.  Otherwise fully programmable with switched power and ground wire triggers, delay power on and delay power off.  Unit works as a circuit breaker.  If a circuit overloads, it cuts power and is reset by turning bike off then on again.

 

So, why am I replacing it?  

 

I want to have some circuits “always on” and this buggers with options on the device.  Always on makes all indicator LEDs remain lit unless you add a kill switch to the hot wire to prevent battery drain.  Likewise, if any other circuit is switched power with a power on delay greater than zero seconds, the always on circuit will cut out as the unit “resets” and waits the proscribed time...which buggers with any device that lacks an internal battery to keep it running during these episodes.

 

The FZ-1 is analog and limited to 30 amps max, but it works.  Mixing always on and switched power isn’t an issue...even if you can’t program it with time delays and other neat tricks.  I’m going back to what worked FOR MY NEEDS.  If you don’t need anything but switched power options, this is a nice module for having options.

 

I plan to fully dismount the unit this weekend (12/7).  If you are interested, PM me.  Reasonable offers will be considered.

Edited by Zero Knievel
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I'm curious what this thing actually does.  Do you have buttons that you hit to turn shit on/off?  Does it just turn on all programmed circuits when you turn the bike on?  And what stuff do you want always on while the bike is off?

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Unit self regulates.  You plug it into a USB and use the free software to configure as desired.  It’s a nice bit of tech aside from the issue I had.  My camera system (when on bike power) has no internal battery.  So, I need uninterrupted power so it doesn’t turn off, but this unit burns power leaving lights on when any one circuit is set to be on.  Had it been designed to turn lights off when all circuits are drawing less than X ma, it would work as intended.  My new camera system is to be direct wired to the battery, but the RS hardly has room to have the battery tender and stock leads on the battery (loads sideways).  The FZ-1 would allow me to attach to the distribution module instead of the battery.

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I'm trying to understand the purpose in programming circuits to turn stuff on/off.  Is it to turn something on/off when you turn something else on/off?  Other than the camera, what do you power from it and what is the programming?  Like when does that stuff turn on/off and why not just a relay that turns on when the bike is on?

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42 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

I'm trying to understand the purpose in programming circuits to turn stuff on/off.  Is it to turn something on/off when you turn something else on/off?  Other than the camera, what do you power from it and what is the programming?  Like when does that stuff turn on/off and why not just a relay that turns on when the bike is on?

 

Well, the Fuze Block FZ-1 is just a distribution block with positive, negative and wire to switched power.  Depending on where you place the micro fuse, a circuit is either always on or turned on when switched power hits the relay.

 

The PDM60 doesn't use fuses...it's more like a circuit breaker.  You program each circuit for whatever amp output you need (not exceeding 15A on any one circuit save one that lets you go to 20A) and you have options such as always on, switched power (with delay for power on and delay for power off), or ground wire trigger (ideal for things like horns).  Overall, it's more versatile.

 

The Fuze Block FZ-1 is instant on when it detects switched power.  The PDM60 allows you to add a delay at startup so attached items don't draw power (taking power from the bike when it's trying to crank) and it lets you add a delay so switched power stays on for a period of time after you turn the bike off.  I'm hard pressed to think of how that's handy, but I suppose it gives flexibility so a circuit can be switched power rather than always on (or leaving the bike on when the motor's stopped).

 

 

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13 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

Oscar, the more you learn about this "problem" the dumber you're going to feel.

 

It's not that bad.  I don't need 3-4 items direct wired to the battery.  That I need "always on" on at least one circuit, wiring it to the bike is more trouble than it should be.  The point for a power distribution block is to have ONE extra battery attachment and run other items off the block.  The FZ-1 has fewer "options" but will work perfectly.  The PDM60 has more options but frustrates my ability to use it as intended.  Had I known, I would have gotten another FZ-1.

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40 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

1. He wants switchable AND unswitched circuits.

 

2. The main item he wants to be able to run on an unswitched circuit is his camera.

 

3. He doesn't have much room and would like a simple connection at the battery.

 

I see you got your Masters in speaking Zero. ;) 

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10 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Oscar, the more you learn about this "problem" the dumber you're going to feel.

 

Unfortunately so.  I really thought these expensive devices were solving a problem that $5 worth of stuff couldn't, but it appears not.

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9 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Unfortunately so.  I really thought these expensive devices were solving a problem that $5 worth of stuff couldn't, but it appears not.


Well, depends on what you want.  I’ve never had an issue with blowing fuses on the FZ-1, so the PDM60 working like a circuit breaker was nice but unnecessary.  The PDM60 is more weatherproof and can be more direct exposed to the elements.  It also is a slimmer package and can fit in tighter spaces.

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Wire, relay, fuse; problem solved.  You can connect to the relay feed side for constant power stuff and the switched side for engine on only stuff.  Simpler, smaller, and way cheaper than the high dollar solutions.  But the strange way is the Zero way so carry on.

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5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Wire, relay, fuse; problem solved.  You can connect to the relay feed side for constant power stuff and the switched side for engine on only stuff.  Simpler, smaller, and way cheaper than the high dollar solutions.  But the strange way is the Zero way so carry on.


No...I went on the recommendations of other owners who love it.  That I had to explain WHY I wanted always on power on any circuit tells me they don’t use that aspect of the device.  That’s why I only recommend the PDM60 for people who want only stitched power circuits  with more options.  Otherwise, I recommend the FZ-1.

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