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Crashed my Blackbird, need help with upper cowl!


Crashedbirb

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Hey guys, I need a little help

 

I got into an accident with my Blackbird back in August and I'm in the process of fixing it now. I'm confused about some parts, I can see to find pretty much everything I need besides something called "guide oil air cooler" which sits in the very front of the upper cowl that the air ducts connect to? Kinda the mesh guard you see in the front, I'll post photos of the accident and before it happened but I would appreciate it if I could get a small list of parts needed to entire rebuild the upper cowl and how to go about doing this, this is my first small rebuild project. Everything else about my blackbird is all good, engine is perfectly fine, sides and rear end didnt get damaged at all.

 

Unsure the condition of my forks but I plan on looking into that after I rebuild the upper cowl!

 

So far all I know of that I need to replace is my mirror/dash bracket mount, of course new fairings and just a new headlight assembly but if I could get some help figuring out what else I'll need, it would be much appreciated!!

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Just now, Furbird said:

See box 9 for the 97-98 models in this link.  9 doesn't show up as applicable for the 99-up.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c1f98f870023420a2f4b7/upper-cowl

So all I'll need is the new bracket mount, upper cowl fairing and headlight assembly? Oh man that makes things so so much easier

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You can probably smooth out the cuts on those ram air tubes as nobody will ever see it and they don't fit perfectly even from the factory.  Headlight, cowl, front fender, check the forks, might need the stay might not, just have to check for straightness.  Check on ebay or the for sale section to see if anybody has that stuff.  Cowl shipping is a big friggin box so shipping will be high.

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3 minutes ago, Furbird said:

You can probably smooth out the cuts on those ram air tubes as nobody will ever see it and they don't fit perfectly even from the factory.  Headlight, cowl, front fender, check the forks, might need the stay might not, just have to check for straightness.  Check on ebay or the for sale section to see if anybody has that stuff.  Cowl shipping is a big friggin box so shipping will be high.

I planned on replacing all the fairings anyways and going to the Black/White repsol ones so that won't be a problem. And forks are a worry of mine so I do plan on taking them off, making sure they're straight and if not, replacement forks aren't too bad. Appreciate the help bud!

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Just now, XXitanium said:

Gorgeous shot...

 

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I love how the NOS tanks look right above the exhaust, took that down in Cape Cod, MA, theres so many pretty areas for photos. I got a nice collection of good shots I can post sometime! She was perfect before the accident, only has 10.6k miles, so so so low for blackbirds! Bought her with 8.6k.

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Just now, superhawk996 said:

Is the NOS just for looks or functional?  Can't see the hose.  If functional, what's the set-up?  Wet or dry, how much HP, ... ?

Oh it's entirely functional, the hookups are hidden and it's on the left side of the bike, theres an arm switch on the left side fairing and once you arm it, it activates as soon as you WOT it. You feel a little kick and suddenly takes off. It's a wet NOS set up and it's a 30 shot. Just took this photo to show!

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Just now, superhawk996 said:

Hadn't noticed there's a bottle on each side.  Those would look great on my Bird!  Did you make the mounting brackets for the bottles?

Last owner brought it to a shop who did everything, I plan on replacing all the fairings to repsol black/white fairings so when I do, I'll take photos to show how it was done! Basically they drilled a hole through part of the frame on both sides and the mounting brackets have a bolt that goes through that hole with a locking nut. Whenever I feel like it, I could take them off but come on, why would I, it looks so good on the blackbird ;)

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I'm guessing (hoping, praying) that somebody took the pick-up tubes out of those bottles before filling them.  When inverted like that they need to have the tubes removed if you didn't know.  The stock engine can handle at least 2.5 times that amount of nitrous, but good luck keeping the nose down.

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2 minutes ago, Furbird said:

I'm guessing (hoping, praying) that somebody took the pick-up tubes out of those bottles before filling them.  When inverted like that they need to have the tubes removed if you didn't know.  The stock engine can handle at least 2.5 times that amount of nitrous, but good luck keeping the nose down.

Yes they did! Theres no problems with them luckily, 30 shot is plenty though, its stupidly powerful without it and with it is just overkill

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Stock (ish) bikes are usually exempted from most of the rules on a test and tune or street-only night.  All of the tracks I've gone to are basically full leathers, gloves over the wrist, boots over the ankles, and a DOT full-face helmet that you must keep the visor down on.  The only mod I had to have on my drag bird was a lanyard shut down switch.  I used one from a jetski and wired it in tandem with the run/off switch on the handlebars.  It attaches with a clip to the zipper on my left sleeve.

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Just now, Furbird said:

Stock (ish) bikes are usually exempted from most of the rules on a test and tune or street-only night.  All of the tracks I've gone to are basically full leathers, gloves over the wrist, boots over the ankles, and a DOT full-face helmet that you must keep the visor down on.  The only mod I had to have on my drag bird was a lanyard shut down switch.  I used one from a jetski and wired it in tandem with the run/off switch on the handlebars.  It attaches with a clip to the zipper on my left sleeve.

I know the one near me requires I have a kevlar wrap on my engine because it does have NOS injection, I could run it without NOS but still would need full leathers which I do not have.

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You shouldn't need to remove the forks to check if they're straight, just loosen the clamps and see if they turn in the clamps. Good luck with your project.

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I've only used bottles mounted in the 'normal' mounting position, but even tho those are angled down it seems like under acceleration the liquid would be pushed to the back and a pick-up tube would be more likely to pick up the liquid than without a tube.  Has the theory of removing the tube actually been tested or is it just assumed that the tube needs to be removed?

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I got a chance to look at the pictures a bit closer on my desktop.  That's unusual damage.  What happened?

 

I'd be very surprised if there was fork damage.  Doesn't appear they would have taken any impact. That headlight is a stout piece and obviously absorbed a lot of energy and the stay probably absorbed the rest.  Just check the frame neck near the mounting lugs for the stay for cracked paint or indication of frame damage. 

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Make sure to check all the wiring behind the headlight that might have gotten pinched during the crash.

 

Some tracks will let you run a fuel-injected bike without a kill switch, if your stock "tip-over" switch is functional.  Also, tell the track tech you only have a 30-shot, and maybe they'll let you slide on the diaper requirement.  Or find a track that isn't NHRA or IHRA approved.  They are more lax on things like that.  Definitely get leathers, though.  Motorcyclegear.com has some great deals.

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1 minute ago, rockmeupto125 said:

I got a chance to look at the pictures a bit closer on my desktop.  That's unusual damage.  What happened?

 

I'd be very surprised if there was fork damage.  Doesn't appear they would have taken any impact. That headlight is a stout piece and obviously absorbed a lot of energy and the stay probably absorbed the rest.  Just check the frame neck near the mounting lugs for the stay for cracked paint or indication of frame damage. 

Basically to make it short, dude slammed brakes, I slammed mine, front disc locked, skidded towards him and hit him doing about 15-20mph

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6 minutes ago, jon haney said:

Make sure to check all the wiring behind the headlight that might have gotten pinched during the crash.

 

Some tracks will let you run a fuel-injected bike without a kill switch, if your stock "tip-over" switch is functional.  Also, tell the track tech you only have a 30-shot, and maybe they'll let you slide on the diaper requirement.  Or find a track that isn't NHRA or IHRA approved.  They are more lax on things like that.  Definitely get leathers, though.  Motorcyclegear.com has some great deals.

I did check the wiring and wasnt affected at all! The one near me is NHRA so I'd look for another but I could just run it stock, I still need a lanyard kill switch though since it does a quarter mile faster than 11 seconds/can do over 120mph in that time, thats just the track rules

Edited by Crashedbirb
Forgot to include one part.
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