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tomek

differential noise

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On 10/23/2019 at 9:31 PM, XXitanium said:

LOL - This place is a nut house.

Now I putting you on ignor. Don't waist even more posting energies.

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11 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

But adds to the chance of dinging the shaft, right?

Depends on what you mean by dinging the shaft.  If you cut into it a little bit with the rotary tool it doesn't matter.  It would take a major fuck up to ding it with the chisel, but even if you did you just file down the high spots and it won't matter.  I've never done the chisel ding, it would be almost impossible.  I have often cut into the shaft/hub with the rotary tool because sometimes you have to to get enough of a cut without cutting into an important part.  If you meant dinging my shaft, sliding it off without cutting/splitting would have the highest likelihood of personal injury.

 

Just to be clear, in case you've never done it or seen it, you don't have to cut all the way through the race.  You cut part way though with a rotary tool (1/2-3/4-ish of it depending on the part) put a cold chisel in the slot, and smack it.  The race will crack along the cut relieving the pressure and slide off pretty easily.

 

I have a pretty nice air over hydraulic press and separators I could use, it's just retarded to go that route when I can split the race much more safely, and possibly faster, than trying to slide it off.  Sliding it off has the possibility of damage way worse than a ding or cut.  As the professional pointed out, it can take a fair bit of bullshit to get it off his way.  The force required can lead to a really bad time, especially with shitty HF tools that might have a lot of stretch/energy buildup and unknown metal qualities.  Cutting/splitting takes a few minutes and it's pretty damn safe, just don't run the cutter into yourself or let the hammer become a thumb detector and you're good.  As for "securing the pinion before giving it a whack", I lay it it the concrete driveway and smack the bitch with a heavy ball peen.  The only part of the gear that could possibly get dinged is nowhere near the contact area so it doesn't matter one bit.  I do protect the threaded end of the pinion, but it probably wouldn't matter if I didn't since the energy is pretty far from it.

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10 hours ago, tomek said:

He knows everything the very bestest without even seeing thing in person. He always has way to come up with useless piece of advice. Very annoying, that's why he is on ignore.

 

I did think about it but there was no way to cut thru rear thick part of bearing without posibility of damaging shaft and/or gear part of the pinion.

Even if you somehow manage to cut inner race there would be  issue with securing the pinion before giving a whack with chisel. You certainly don't wanna rest gear part on anything. It is very brittle. 

You should stick to ignoring me, your life will be better.

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4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

You should stick to ignoring me, your life will be better.

That was my fault for quoting you.

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Ahh.  He still has the option to consciously ignore me, but can't pass up an opportunity to take a retarded stab.  I've cut/split dozens of races, I don't need to see his particular pinion in person to know it should work, it's an ideal candidate since the race is separated from the gear giving good cutting space.  If there is something special I can't see and he shows it I'll eat my words publicly; here's your opportunity Tomek, good luck.  Wheel hubs are a bit more difficult because the race is generally tight to the flange, I keep a few worn down cutting discs for stuff like that, the smaller diameter lets me cut deeper into the race and closer to a flange without digging into the flange & shaft as much.  Now there are cheap 'repair kits' with the bearing and hub for many cars so one doesn't have to deal with removing the bearing race.  I just realized I didn't say how I cut them, a friction disc on an air powered rotary, AKA die grinder, I believe they're 3" discs.  Once in a while I use one of the tiny wheels on an electric rotary, AKA Dremel, if I need to cut further into the race and don't want to cut further into the flange or shaft.  The larger discs make a wide enough cut to drop a chisel into it and the race will crack along the cut line.  The chisel sometimes sticks in place lightly, perfect for keeping the crack spread open and sliding the race off, then just tap it on the ground or with the hammer and they separate.  When it doesn't stick I put a screwdriver into the crack and use a rotating motion, the levering opens the crack as I rotate/slide the race off.

 

I mostly ignore him these days, but when I see him post a procedure like this I'm compelled to give my opinion and an optional procedure, others are free to decide which makes more sense for them.  A separator & press make sense when the bearing isn't tightly pressed because it can be quick, or if you're trying to save the bearing for re-use.

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I forgot to mention, there's a tool specifically for removing pinion bearings, it's safe and super quick.  The bearing comes off intact allowing it to be used as a "set-up" bearing.  I don't own one and have never used one, but have seen it used and it's slick.

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You are on ignore.

7 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

That was my fault for quoting you.

Gimme 20 push ups and we are cool.😁

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21 hours ago, tomek said:

You are on ignore.

 

One of the symptoms of narcissism is having to let people know that you're purposely not responding to how they have triggered you, instead of actually just ignoring them.

 

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He likes reminding me and others that I'm on ignore and why.  He has repeatedly said, or strongly implied, that I don't know WTF I'm talking about but hasn't brought out a shred of evidence.  And in this most recent one I didn't even say he had done it wrong, just that there was another way to do it, and he jumped right into the shit talking.  Apparently something I've done dozens of times can't be done by him or anyone else on the planet....I guess he was right when he said I am SuperCuban and know everything.

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I have this picture in my head, of half the board being on ignore, and Page after page racking up so no apparent reason.

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LOL.  I don't actually know what an ignored post looks like.  Does it show a place marker and just hide the content?  That would be deliciously trolling behavior.  I assumed it just compresses each person's view so that the same number of posts show up.  The rest of us see five pages of posts, Tomek sees 1-2.

 

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....your thread... 

 

?

Screenshot_20191028-191119_Chrome.jpg

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I haven't put anyone on Ignore before. I do know you should be careful opening links posted by one "Swampnut"  ...but that's just based on brutal experience.

;)

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I have some great NWS posts to put up, lulling you into complacency, and then...

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14 hours ago, SwampNut said:

LOL.  I don't actually know what an ignored post looks like.  Does it show a place marker and just hide the content?  That would be deliciously trolling behavior.  I assumed it just compresses each person's view so that the same number of posts show up.  The rest of us see five pages of posts, Tomek sees 1-2.

 

From old memory of when TFT was being super crazy: It shows a small placeholder saying 'TFT replied' or something like that.  If you want to display it you have to unblock the person.  I'm pretty sure there have been some changes to the site since then so who knows now.  Block someone and take a look.

 

On Calguns it shows something like F.Guffy has replied, click here to view.  That guy is blocked by dozens if not hundreds of people.

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Diff is back in the car. It was, of course, pita, 2 subframe to chassis, 2 diff to chassis and 2 diff to subframe bolts had to be aligned simultaneously while lifting everything up. Safety third, so differential at one point landed on my skull. LOL.

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Working in the garage alone has been the story of my life, there is good and bad in it, mostly good.  It is good that you got her done though.

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7 hours ago, tomek said:

Diff is back in the car. It was, of course, pita, 2 subframe to chassis, 2 diff to chassis and 2 diff to subframe bolts had to be aligned simultaneously while lifting everything up. Safety third, so differential at one point landed on my skull. LOL.


I feel your pain, legitimately.  Now I have a climate controlled shop with a lift and hydraulic jacks because I'm too old for that shit.

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Test drive??? Is the noise gone?

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It perfect, built by professional.  So smooth it goes 12mph faster at same rpm and double extra mpg.  Beat Dodge Demon on 1/4 mile.

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And fuck you for asking.

 

Edit: I really like being on his ignore list.

Edited by superhawk996

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On 11/4/2019 at 11:22 PM, XXBirdSlapper said:

Test drive??? Is the noise gone?

Yes, it is silent. I did require minor lash adjustment on carrier, like 1/4 turn. 

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