Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum
Sign in to follow this  
jon haney

Question about Dana 44 rear end.

Recommended Posts

Just got done installed a TruTrac in my Nissan Frontier.  It has the M226 axle, which is the Super 44, and has the threaded adjusters for carrier spacing.  I couldn't find any info on how tight (torque rating?) those should be, so I just made them "snug".  Anyone know??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It might be here https://f01.justanswer.com/dcraig1000/82c66212-7a0a-4e10-9ab5-b240feb4a6ec_EEE.pdf

 

I didn't have the patience to read through it all to see if it's there.  If not, I think what you wanna search is "M226 bearing preload" to hopefully find the answer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe search 'side bearing preload' to get more specific results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Took me a couple reads to understand it.  Since I didn't mess with the pinion shaft at all, I will assume its torque is correct.  After getting the proper gear tooth alignment, it appears that I am to put a torque wrench (set to 22 in-lbs) on the pinion nut.  Then tighten the threaded adjusters evenly until it takes at least 22 in-lbs, but no more than 40, to start turning the pinion shaft.

Shit!  Looks like I'm going back under the truck.  I was turning it easily by hand with the drive shaft attached.  No way that was 22 in-lbs.  At least I can check it before I pull the cover.

 

Thanks, Oscar

Edited by jon haney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

22 In.Lbs ain't shit, I can go well over 100 with a common sized screwdriver.  A new set of pinion bearings is set to whatever the spec is, then over time the torque required to turn it drops off.  I would target the low end of that 22-40in/lb spec. since they're probably assuming the pinion turning torque is going to be higher than what you probably have with your used set-up.  I wouldn't be surprised if you're over while thinking you're under, but either way it's worth checking.  And you'll have to pull the axles out to get an exact measurement otherwise you're dealing with wheel bearing loads.  If those use straight roller bearings, most likely, and not tapered then it's probably not gonna matter too much, but do make sure the brake pads & shoes aren't making any contact.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pulling the axles will suck.  Wheel bearings are tapered and also new.  Maybe I should shoot for the 40 with everything on?

I had to change axles to put a Trutrac in place of the factory E-locker POS.  Open Diff in a truck is just plain stupid.  Especially, when the E-locker only works in 4-low.  I'm 99.99 % street duty, IN KANSAS, so the E-locker is worthless even in 2-wheel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You coulda just changed the wiring, or possibly tweaked the settings with a plug in tuner, to let you select it whenever you wanted it.  But it's done, and in many cases probably most cases, something like the trutrac is better than a locker.  In the rare instance that it doesn't give enough to keep one tire from spinning, put a little bit of E brake pressure on and it'll multiply that wheel's torque into the one with traction.

 

As for the torque; I think I'd set the adjusters just to where the bearings aren't loose, but without loading them at all and see what the torque is so you know what all the other bearings are doing, then add 20ish in.lbs. with the adjusters.  You'll have already deducted the pinion drag so staying at the low end of side gear drag should put it near the middle range if it were being done by the book.  I would do a torque test before loosening the adjusters just to see how good my initial guess was just cuz I'm that kinda curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

You coulda just changed the wiring, or possibly tweaked the settings with a plug in tuner, to let you select it whenever you wanted it.  But it's done, and in many cases probably most cases, something like the trutrac is better than a locker.  In the rare instance that it doesn't give enough to keep one tire from spinning, put a little bit of E brake pressure on and it'll multiply that wheel's torque into the one with traction.

 

As for the torque; I think I'd set the adjusters just to where the bearings aren't loose, but without loading them at all and see what the torque is so you know what all the other bearings are doing, then add 20ish in.lbs. with the adjusters.  You'll have already deducted the pinion drag so staying at the low end of side gear drag should put it near the middle range if it were being done by the book.  I would do a torque test before loosening the adjusters just to see how good my initial guess was just cuz I'm that kinda curious.

Tuners are a joke for a Nissan Frontier.  Already have the Injen version of a Pedal Commander, which helps throttle response, but there is room for improvement.  I can get a wiring harness that lets you engage the locker any time, but I would want to leave it on most of the time, and these lockers are not known for their durability.

Plan to check torque tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use