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Stripped bolt head. Do informercial wrenches work.


redxxrdr

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God daughter wanted help changing brakes on Ninja 650.

Caliper mounting bolts over torqued and red lock tite.

One bolt head rounding off with 6 point socket.

I often see wrenches with cam or multiple pin heads shown on TV.

Has anyone used these things with success?   

Heat has not helped.  If no better ideas, reverse bits and patience.

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20 minutes ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

How did you apply heat??

Small butane torch. Splayed on head, then 15 minutes or so on threaded section of caliper.

 

I know heat on head won't transfer well.

Threaded area on caliper is deep, and hard to get to.

My princess torch is too big.

I ordered 4 used bolts from eBay.

At least one of them shows the same distress.  So it must be a standard for ninja.

 

The good news is that I can drill the bolt if necessary.

The bad news is that it has to be done with a hand drill.  Easy to screw up.

 

Nikki just split from boyfriend, so I have become Inportant again.  😗.

Chain was banjo spring tight. Brakes worn and had the replacement problem.

She washed it while at my house. Now it shuts down.  Aftermarket fuel cap, guess I'll be pulling tank.

Etc etc etc.

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If you made the bolt head red hot you drew the hardness down and promoted the deformation. Next time try heating, a paint heat gun is convenient, and immediately spray with cold water. Repeat several times. The last time don't spray it with cold water, put a six point socket or wrench on it and wack that with a hammer to break it free.

Since its lock tighted, and deformed, bite the bullet and weld a much larger nut onto the deformed head and use method above.

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I've done the slapper-recommended "weld on another nut" thing and it works.  We had to pull the exhaust off of my friends 200k mile Armada and the exhaust tube nuts were rusted badly.  Welded the shit out of a replacement nut and out they came.  I've also heard that instead of using water to use WD40 and it basically hardens the bolt as it cools plus draws in lubricant for a win-win.

That must be some hella loctite or they are extremely corroded because that type of work has never been done.  Don't forget, nothing says loctite like cross-thread might also be an issue if somebody has been working on it before you.

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1 hour ago, Furbird said:

I've done the slapper-recommended "weld on another nut" thing and it works.  We had to pull the exhaust off of my friends 200k mile Armada and the exhaust tube nuts were rusted badly.  Welded the shit out of a replacement nut and out they came.  I've also heard that instead of using water to use WD40 and it basically hardens the bolt as it cools plus draws in lubricant for a win-win.

That must be some hella loctite or they are extremely corroded because that type of work has never been done.  Don't forget, nothing says loctite like cross-thread might also be an issue if somebody has been working on it before you.

I've used wd-40 in the heat cycle too. You are correct, it seams to improve the results, but red loctite s bad ass, so it may prevent it from drawing the wd into the threads. Wouldn't hurt it to try.

Soaking the threaded area in acetone may break down the loctite too.

 

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Acetone and ATF is a good penetrator. I use it on old VW and far all tractors all the time.

These bolts have heads that are smaller than the bolts themselves.

I didn't use high heat, or any until they started to strip.

This poor little bike has spent the last four yeArs stored in the Georgia rain and humidity.

She has some young bucks chasing her.  If I don't resolve it soon. They can have st it.

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There are two common red locktites, one being heat resistant.  Once heated above the magic temperature they do let loose.  The biggest issue I see with using heat here is potentially damaging fork/caliper parts, aluminum will quickly transfer the heat from where you want it to where you don't.  Using a really hot torch like oxy/acetylene might let you heat the spot quickly enough to get it into the threads.

 

I've never used any of those advertised bolt removers.  I've often been able to hammer on a smaller wrench/socket to get a better grip, might be worth a try.

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I was miserably defeated on a VW Jetta yesterday. There was an allen bolt  head with a round exterior. I couldn't get it out I wonder if that would have done it. Maybe if I got one just small enough to tap on?

 

Took it down and dropped it off at my usual garage in defeat.

Edited by XXitanium
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55 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

I was miserably defeated on a VW Jetta yesterday. 

VW. Your first problem.

 

Took it down and dropped it off at my usual garage in defeat.   

A good mechanic knows when to punt.

 

I currently have a 1961 beetle convertible and a 1965 type 2 truck.

Neither drivable at this time. Retirement projects.  The old ones require some special tools.  But the modern water Cooled VW have parts that seem to be designed to fail.

 

My initial post was to get knowledge of alternate processes to remove the screw.  We have a great knowledge base here.

 

In the day, I have carried a VW engine in to a machinist to get a broken exhaust stud removed.

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4 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

Yes

Mangled the head a bit, but it worked well.

I have replacement bolts from eBay.

More expensive than I expected for a HF tool, but they don't look nearly as cheesy as most of their tools.

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The finish, and visible metallurgy is much better than normal Harbor Freight, painted or chromed. Plus the socket style holder, even in plastic,  holds much better than the stamped metal Craftsman holders.  I usually lose my speciality tools before needing them again..

In my internet searching, I also found a set that looked like it was rifled on the inside. A Wal-Mart product, for $13.00.

But checkout on my phone defeated me.

 

The great news is that I got this done, and I have another tool for my box.😀

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5 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

 

Thanks for the Gimme.

 

The kid needs the car back to go to back to school.

I have been living that dream too.

Kirsten has a 1993 Lebaron, needs all front end replaced.  Chris just returned from afganistan. He has never owned a car. Both are looking.

I get up some morning with only a bike to ride.

 

I have spent many a long night rebuilding a childs, or my own car to get to school.

I even put a ring gear on backwards once.  Old VW and porsche would let you do that.

Drove a 356 to school for a week with one forward gear.

 

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1 hour ago, redxxrdr said:

I have been living that dream too.

Kirsten has a 1993 Lebaron, needs all front end replaced.  Chris just returned from afganistan. He has never owned a car. Both are looking.

I get up some morning with only a bike to ride.

 

I have spent many a long night rebuilding a childs, or my own car to get to school.

I even put a ring gear on backwards once.  Old VW and porsche would let you do that.

Drove a 356 to school for a week with one forward gear.

 

 

My first car was a 1955 Triumph TR2. Shortly after being given to me by my older brother the starter went out. No problem. I was 18 and was living in the Mississippi delta. Flat land, convertible, just pushed the fucker up to speed, jumped in, and I was off to the races. i was a real cool dude back then. All the popular girls wanted a piece of me.

E022434A-1124-4357-B0BB-3D51652A8257.jpeg

Edited by RXX
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I would say it was the car Philip. 😀

 

But my first was a 550 R.  Couldn't pick up a girl.

Got wrecked. Pulled out 56 willys pickup.  Couldn't beat them off with a stick.  Redneck country.

 

Damn nice brother you have there.

Where's a picture of the pickup?

😀

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6 hours ago, XXitanium said:

I was miserably defeated on a VW Jetta yesterday. There was an allen bolt  head with a round exterior. I couldn't get it out I wonder if that would have done it. Maybe if I got one just small enough to tap on?

 

Make sure that you ask them how they did it but it wouldn't surprise me if they weld a old allen wrench to it.

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