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Oil additive ?


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On 7/29/2019 at 8:50 AM, redxxrdr said:

During the Dino oil days, I used one of the additives, slick 50 I think, in my Magna.

 

Almost instant clutch slip.

Dumped and went through two standard dino oil changes before slippage stopped.

With many choices of synthetic oil available, why play games.

 

The best advice is to check your levels before each ride.

I put it in my 650 Maxim back in the late 80's and had no slippage at all.  I did hear of some that did.  One guy believed in it so much, he would sacrifice a set of clutch plates.  I can't say that I noticed any difference.

Edited by jon haney
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5 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

The engines that I have torn down that had synthetic are really clean compared to the old ones that used dino oil

Engines I tore down in the early 70's were easy to tell which oil had been used. Quaker State had grey sludge, Kendall had black sludge, Wolfs Head and Pennsoil were clean.

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3 hours ago, OMG said:

Wolfs Head and Pennsoil were clean.

Interesting.

 

Mid 80's I was at a friend's house and her dad was doing valve cover gaskets on his early/mid 70's chevy pickup with a 350.  He was a hard core Pennzoil guy and the top end was a black sludgefest.  He liked Pennzoil because it stayed clean, any time he tried something else it turned dark right away.  He wouldn't accept that maybe the other brand was removing some of the crust being left behind from his beloved Pennzoil.

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9 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Eurocar fans love everything from liqui-moly.  No clue if it's actually any better than American snake oils.  If any Eurocar maker endorses them I'd be more inclined to think they're good.  I wonder if European gearheads look to American additives for their American cars.

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An engine oil should get dirty slowly over 3 to 5K miles.  If not, it's not doing one of the jobs it's supposed to do, which is keep deposits in suspension, and not deposited on engine parts.  I believe the additive is called detergent.  Just one of the reasons you change oil at regular intervals.  If all it had to do was be lubricant, you could run it a lot longer.

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5 hours ago, jon haney said:

An engine oil should get dirty slowly over 3 to 5K miles.  If not, it's not doing one of the jobs it's supposed to do, which is keep deposits in suspension, and not deposited on engine parts.  I believe the additive is called detergent.  Just one of the reasons you change oil at regular intervals.  If all it had to do was be lubricant, you could run it a lot longer.

Agreed. I run one pint of Pinesol per oil change. It has a side benefit, it makes the engine smell fresh, like a misty sunrise in the boreal forest. 

Edited by XXBirdSlapper
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My forklift burns oil about 20:1, maybe worse.  I should try the Pinesol so the neighbors think I'm cleaning instead of being reminded that they live next to a redneck.

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Just now, superhawk996 said:

My forklift burns oil about 20:1, maybe worse.  I should try the Pinesol so the neighbors think I'm cleaning instead of being reminded that they live next to a redneck.

It cleans the munge buildup off over every bump. It conditions seals, and makes old parts new.

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So jokes aside.  I had a VW powered sandrail that burned a lot of oil and had low compression.  The timing was super retarded for multiple reasons and I speculated that the rings were carbon crusted and stuck so I went for a hail marry cure and dumped mineral spirits down the carb to flush it out.  Flooded it out a few times then blew it out and it was cured.

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7 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

So jokes aside.  I had a VW powered sandrail that burned a lot of oil and had low compression.  The timing was super retarded for multiple reasons and I speculated that the rings were carbon crusted and stuck so I went for a hail marry cure and dumped mineral spirits down the carb to flush it out.  Flooded it out a few times then blew it out and it was cured.

So the spirits haunted it back to life?

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