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Oil additive ?


OMG

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Does anyone remember the oil additive demos from some years ago where they seized a bearing with a lever contraption, then dropped a bit of their snake oil on it and it wouldn't seize?

The claims were that you could put in in an engine run it, drain the oil and it would run without oil.

What happened to that show? I remember that they were at most every gun show.

I do remember a guy here that had a goldwing that he tested it on, ran it to operating temp, added an ounce or so and in about 20 min. the idle increased.

 

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Slick 50?  There were a few similar products.  They were all sued by Dupont because their claims about Dupont-brand PTFE (Teflon) were completely false.  A few stuck around, selling something with generic PTFE and not using the Teflon branding, which obviously had great value to unwitting consumers.

 

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lets let common sense come into play here, an engine running under no load at idle with a film of oil can survive, but under the loads of hard acceleration, upshifts etc.

are you going trust that "snake oil" Oh hell NO!!! Stay away from this !!!

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I think I remember the product, but I think the current stuff using the same name IS NOT the same formula.  I read reviews condemning the new stuff as snake oil compared to the original product.

 

BTW, I saw a video where they drained ordinary oil from a Kawasaki and ran it until the headers were turning red.  Never seized.  They let it cool, filled with oil, and it ran fine.  Some motors made better than others?

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10 hours ago, Furbird said:

Duralube is what I believe you were referring to.
 

 

That was the contraption

 

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Any thoughts on using Anti wear additives vs friction modifiers?

Products?

 

My only experience is with Maxi-mizer, I put a bottle of it in a chevy that used a quart per tank prior to a cross country trip.

I added a mixed quart at the first fill-up and that was the last that engine burned oil. It was a non=stop trip so the engine ran for lots of hours.

That product is a metal base lube additive.

Edited by OMG
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Honestly, I put no stock in them since going to Amsoil.

 

I used them when I used regular dino oil.  Once I saw the superior protection of a full-synthetic (back when they were a minority in the market), I switched all vehicles and never looked back.  Pickup truck is about 21 years old with almost 225K on the clock...runs great with no sign of oil consumption.  Switched to Amsoil about a year into owning it.  Ran nothing but Amsoil in the XX all the time I had it.  Only reason I'm using another brand in the RS is because it's under warranty and can't find an exact match from Amsoil for the oil specs.  Once it's out of warranty, I won't worry about using the closest match they carry.

 

Since the vast majority of wear is at startup, that's all these modifiers can help protect against, but even then, how many high quality oils already have them to some degree to serve that purpose?

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The one armed bandit, it's been selling snake oil for decades.  Dandruff shampoo also passes that test, and it might be a good engine cleaner.  And the engine won't get dandruff.  There's lots of stuff that will pass that test that don't belong in an engine.  That machine is going to shine when there's a strong EP lubricant present, something that most engines don't need.  In simple terms, EP lubes act as a backup lubricant, if the oil film fails to keep two parts from rubbing, the EP steps in.  The EP lube is basically floating along with the oil doing nothing until high heat 'activates' it.  This used to be handled by zinc, today it's mostly handled by other stuff.  There are supporting additives that must be used with zinc and a different set for the alternatives.  Those supporting additives don't get along with eachother nor with the wrong EP additive.  While throwing some zinc into the oil will definitely improve it's EP qualities, it can also cause a breakdown of the whole package.  Some EP lubes that are 'proven' by the one armed bandit can be highly corrosive.

 

There are additives that can improve an oil's performance, they can also make it worse.  Some additives can 'fight' with the additive package already in the oil.  I'm pretty sure there's a great oil for every engine out there so trying to play home chemist doesn't seem to make sense to me, unless you really know your shit.  I've seen tests where additives clearly reduced an oil's performance.  There might have been a time when additives made sense, especially before these additives existed, today I don't think there's a good reason to fuck with the oil.

 

I'm not a lube specialist/engineer, much of the above is what I've gathered from reading what they've written.  I've yet to find any engineer or oil maker/distributor that recommends an additive.  The only thing I've heard from them on the subject is to not put anything in their oil.

 

I've read testimonials from oil and fuel additive users that are incredible, and some are clearly full of bullshit.

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46 minutes ago, OMG said:

Any thoughts on using Anti wear additives vs friction modifiers?

Products?

You should enjoy the ones already in the oil.

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14 hours ago, OMG said:

I do remember a guy here that had a goldwing that he tested it on, ran it to operating temp, added an ounce or so and in about 20 min. the idle increased.

I would be greatly impressed by that.  Did you witness the before/after or hear about it?

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2 hours ago, OMG said:

Any thoughts on using Anti wear additives vs friction modifiers?

Products?

 

 

You have to watch out for friction modifiers, they may make your clutch slip.

Apparently in some cases you can get away with it. If you want a long read -

https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/74198-case-using-mobil-1-15w-50-automobile-oil-motorcycle.html

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That's in the Ducati forum where most bikes have dry clutches, in that case no oil can hurt the clutch.  I didn't read the whole thing so maybe they specifically address wet clutches.  Also beware that what might work fine with one clutch might not with another, whether by design or usage.

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11 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Also beware that what might work fine with one clutch might not with another, whether by design or usage.

 

Yeah, so on the usage bit.  I knew two guys who bought identical bikes, on the same day, and lived together, doing all maintenance together, using some car oil.  They swore they weren't gay, I don't judge.  Anyway one had slippage issues, the other did not.  I *think* they were RC51s?  Not sure.  Some bike that was noisy and I hated, so something like that.

 

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5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

today I don't think there's a good reason to fuck with the oil.

Unless you have a car like OMG, then, why not?  There is nothing to lose.

 

Quote

 

My only experience is with Maxi-mizer, I put a bottle of it in a chevy that used a quart per tank prior to a cross country trip.

I added a mixed quart at the first fill-up and that was the last that engine burned oil. It was a non=stop trip so the engine ran for lots of hours.

 

 

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30 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

Unless you have a car like OMG, then, why not?  There is nothing to lose.

 

 

😁

Brother-in-laws car, 10 years ago. True, they got screwed on that car, but, it was a chevy.

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3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Unless you have a car like OMG, then, why not?  There is nothing to lose.

I didn't consider trying to cure a problem when I wrote that, I have used additives to try to cure problems as well as flush additives.  OMG's experience may have been due to the additive or the long drive.

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During the Dino oil days, I used one of the additives, slick 50 I think, in my Magna.

 

Almost instant clutch slip.

Dumped and went through two standard dino oil changes before slippage stopped.

With many choices of synthetic oil available, why play games.

 

The best advice is to check your levels before each ride.

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12 minutes ago, redxxrdr said:

 

The best advice is to check your levels before each ride.

 

I never have to add oil to the XX between 6k mile changes and it likes to live in the 9-10k range most of the time. Compare that to my 954 that seemed to always need oil.You have to admit the XX engine  is special.

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As much as I'm generally opposed to additives today, I used one in my '73 Mustang way back and lifter noise at start-up went away, I think it was Slick50.  There was an early minivan, I think Mazda MPV, that was known for lifter noise.  A buddy used an additive, pretty sure it was Slick50, and it would keep it quiet.  In those cases, especially the MPV, there was no way to mistake the effect, the additive was definitely the one keeping them quiet.  How it did it I don't know.

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I have seen a number of seafoam videos for crank case and top end cleaning.

But my 4.3 's don't have top end rattle,and I don't have the nerve to try it on high mileage, but good running engines.

The engines that I have torn down that had synthetic are really clean compared to the old ones that used dino oil

Edited by redxxrdr
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