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tomek

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RMP does not matter ? Well, 4 k rpm vs 14 k rpm  the load on the journal will be 1225 % higher, but you say it does not matter, whatever.

 

Just go away and never, ever respond to my posts. You are right, and I have no clue. Ok ?

But please, please, go away.

Edited by tomek

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You obviously have a reading comprehension problem, or are just a 'tard...probably both.  The load makes no difference in how fast the heat spread to the web.  The RPM makes very little difference how quickly the heat spread, but if you wanna nit pick, ok.  It took longer to spread at 14,000 than if it had been doing 4,000 RPM so you're just making your argument even less valid than I thought you could, good job.

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12 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

You obviously have a reading comprehension problem, or are just a 'tard...probably both.  The load makes no difference in how fast the heat spread to the web.  The RPM makes very little difference how quickly the heat spread, but if you wanna nit pick, ok.  It took longer to spread at 14,000 than if it had been doing 4,000 RPM (what ?) so you're just making your argument even less valid than I thought you could, good job.

  High rpm generates way more heat once the bearing fails because the load is much higher. Basic physics can tall us how much higher.  Also the bearing did not spun , it just sized, melted, whatever . You 

Engine went soft on power at WOT ( bearing sized ) and it was fallowed shortly by knocking noise. But according to you it did not happened like that, obviously I was hallucinating. You were not there, but you know better what happened. You are awesome.

It is just like you were educating me how to shift 13 speed in peterbilt because you drove Transtar once 29 years ago. Cubans are amazing people.

 

BTW, what engine rebuild skills do you have other then pouring can of Engine Restore in the crankcase ? 

 

 

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41 minutes ago, tomek said:

  High rpm generates way more heat once the bearing fails because the load is much higher. Basic physics can tall us how much higher.  Also the bearing did not spun , it just sized, melted, whatever . You 

Engine went soft on power at WOT ( bearing sized=friction ) and it was fallowed shortly by knocking noise. It generated enough heat to melt titanium of conrod ( you can clearly see it ) but according to you it was not enough to blue part of crankshaft. Titanium melts at around 3000 F, but that obviously was not enough. You just know it.

 

 Obviously  I was hallucinating. You were not there, but you know better what happened. You are awesome.

It is just like you were educating me how to shift 13 speed in peterbilt because you drove Transtar once 29 years ago. Cubans are amazing people.

 

BTW, what engine rebuild skills do you have other then pouring can of Engine Restore in the crankcase ? 

 

 

 

Edited by tomek

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Show me where I said that RPM and/or load doesn't generate more heat.  Show me where I said that it didn't go soft on power then start knocking.  Show me where I tried to educate you on how to shift a 13 speed.  You can't do any of those things because I never did.

 

You take any opposing side's words and twist them up into what you think they are, I see if frequently, there's something very wrong with you.  No matter how clearly it's laid out for you it's like you're covering your eyes and screaming "that's not what you wrote"!  Even when the opposition positively proves they're right you won't admit it even when it's specifically pointed out to you, as was seen again on this topic.  Now we have 3 very specific statements that I'm challenging you on, let's see how you'll avoid admitting I'm right about them.

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Forgot about your question.  I've done a few.  I have the 'normal' skills needed to pull it off and the skills to make alterations to the norm when it makes sense.

 

I own and know how to use: inside and outside micrometers & calipers up to 12", plasti-gauge, dial indicators, torque wrenches from inch/ounce up, piston ring cutters for setting end gaps, block & head boring tools for doing big bores, ect.; more than the average person has in his garage.  I've surfaced heads and re-sized rods at home.  I've done porting and piston modifying.  I've done crank, cylinder, valve, and journal surfacing.  I took an "unsalvageable" engine and made it run with only about $20 worth of new parts, and have repaired many "unrepareable" parts.  None of that or the fact that my engines always work will prove shit in your eyes, but asked and answered.

Edited by superhawk996

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So, you do know that amount of heat sufficient to melt titanium in short period of time is not sufficient to blue surrounding area on crankshaft. That is basically what you say.

 

What other scientific experiments have you conducted in your shade tree laboratory ?   

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43 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

 

 

You take any opposing side's words and twist them up into what you think they are, I see if frequently, there's something very wrong with you.  No matter how clearly it's laid out for you it's like you're covering your eyes and screaming "that's not what you wrote"!  Even when the opposition positively proves they're right you won't admit it even when it's specifically pointed out to you, as was seen again on this topic.  Now we have 3 very specific statements that I'm challenging you on, let's see how you'll avoid admitting I'm right about them.

Please take a look in the mirror.

 

BTW, I don`t have to prove anything. You came to this thread claiming it id not happen like I said it happen. How do you explain melting the titanium in short period of time, but somehow bluing of crank had to take long time ? 

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"NEVER RESPOND TO ME AGAIN I'M DONE WITH YOU!!"

 

(Proceeds to continue to have fits and/or argue and/or whine about the other person responding.)

 

594902625_b237a2c7a7_b.jpg

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Just now, tomek said:

Please take a look in the mirror.

 

BTW, I don`t have to prove anything. You came to this thread claiming it id not happen like I said it happen. How do you explain melting the titanium in short period of time, but somehow bluing of crank had to take long time ? 

Again, you won't admit where you're wrong even when clearly pointed out, but you'll continue to make claims and ask stupid questions.  Once you get those answers you'll not acknowledge them or any question placed on you so there's no point in me continuing to answer your questions.

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1 minute ago, SwampNut said:

"NEVER RESPOND TO ME AGAIN I'M DONE WITH YOU!!"

 

(Proceeds to continue to have fits and/or argue and/or whine about the other person responding.)

 

594902625_b237a2c7a7_b.jpg

Yup.

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I can't tell if he's really that distorted or is just trolling.  It appears to be that he's honestly incapable of reading something without reading in his own version of the other person's words, but dunno.

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Explain how it could melt titanium in short period of time but it could not blue the crank. Waiting. 

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He refuses to acknowledge when the other person is right so maybe it's both, and/or option #3, he's just a dick.

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1 minute ago, tomek said:

Explain how it could melt titanium in short period of time but it could not blue the crank. Waiting. 

Since that didn't happen there is nothing to answer.

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For some people, when they determine their version of reality, there is no way to change it.  Reference Terry and the "high power assault weapons."  No matter what evidence is posted, there will always be a deflection or other way to reframe the discussion.

 

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It seems extra nutty that he would ask how the rod melted without bluing the crank when he has held and photographed his blued crank.

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I should have realized from the start that the conversation would just turn into the same ole stupid argument, but I got sucked in because this time it's a totally different deal than the political or other BS discussions.  But yea, it doesn't matter if something can be proven to a person that's committed to their personal version of reality.  Maybe he'll admit that his version just makes him feel better, Terry at least 'manned' up with that.

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How did the damage to the chain occur?

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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

It seems extra nutty that he would ask how the rod melted without bluing the crank when he has held and photographed his blued crank.

It takes 600 f to blue crankshaft, but plain bearing, babbitt will melt in much lower temperature. Like 500 F.

You claim it had to take more then couple of seconds to blue crankshaft

 

Please explain how was it possible for bearing to stay intact for long period of time, and heat the crakshaft when its melting temperature is below what is required for the surrounding of crank to change the color. 

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1 hour ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

How did the damage to the chain occur?

No sure, but most likely some metal debris got on sprocket when I removed head. The head had blend valve job done by APE, squish tighten to 0.55 mm via cylinder base gasket removal. Cams were degreed. It requires pressed on adaptors on this particular engine. PITA.

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19 minutes ago, tomek said:

It takes 600 f to blue crankshaft, but plain bearing, babbitt will melt in much lower temperature. Like 500 F.

You claim it had to take more then couple of seconds to blue crankshaft

 

Please explain how was it possible for bearing to stay intact for long period of time, and heat the crakshaft when its melting temperature is below what is required for the surrounding of crank to change the color. 

600f, pretty sure that's the number I stated earlier.  The bearing doesn't need to stay intact, and it very clearly did not so again you're proving to be blind to the obvious.  The rod will continue doing the friction work well after the bearing is gone.  And that's the last question I'll answer from you 'till you answer my questions.

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On 2/1/2019 at 9:29 AM, SwampNut said:

 

LOL!  There's not one thread where you don't show that you're just nuts, is there?  I had mostly ignored this thread, and this morning I used the "next thread" button that I never do, and saw this idiocy.  I'll never use that button again.

 

I'd never noticed that button and for some reason it just hit me.

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32 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

600f, pretty sure that's the number I stated earlier.  The bearing doesn't need to stay intact, and it very clearly did not so again you're proving to be blind to the obvious.  The rod will continue doing the friction work well after the bearing is gone.  And that's the last question I'll answer from you 'till you answer my questions.

I`m sure you wont post anything in this post anymore because by now you have realized your scenario of events is impossible due to the low melting temperature of plain bearing.

 

 With  bearing gone it would be making ungodly noises but it did not till after the engine was down on power. The clearance was obviously  ok till the very last couple of seconds. 

You probably realize by now your scenario of events is physically impossible, illogical and retarded . You are just stocked on stupid and wont admit you were wrong.

What else is new. There was a reason I put you on ignore in the first place.

 

MELTED PLAIN BEARING= NOISE. There was no noise till the very last couple seconds.  Bearing melting temperature - 500 F. Temperature required to blue crankshaft 600 F. You claim it had to take much longer then couple of seconds for the heat to blue the crank. But if  there was no noise till the very last couple of seconds it means the temperature did not exceeded  melting point, wont even mention temp required to blue crankshaft. So there was no sufficient heat till the very last couple of seconds.

 

CAPISCE ? 

 

 

 

 

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The crank journal temp went over 600 long enough for the web to hit 600 pretty far from the journal and there was more than just bearing material gone, the evidence is clear, enjoy your feelings.

Edited by superhawk996

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