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Motivation frame slider install


snowranger

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Hello all,  

I've been reading the forum for some time now but never posted before.  My bike is a 2003 Blackbird which I've owned for five years now.  I love it and plan to keep it.  I recently had the side fairings repainted and I want to install frame sliders to protect them from my usual slow motion tipovers in future.  I had the locations spotted and am ready to drill the holes in plastic when it occurred to me that I may not be able to remove or replace the fairings without first removing the frame sliders.  Problem is that the slider/engine mount bolt on the throttle side has a spacer that must fit between the frame and the engine block.  I think it would be impossible to replace that slider after installing the fairing.  So my question to the more experienced among us is.....can the throttle side lower fairing panel be removed and replaced without first removing the frame slider??  Help would be appreciated.

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As you mentioned, if you are looking for tip-over protection, there is no real need for frame sliders or cutting holes in the plastics.

Many Bird owners install what are referred to as tip-over "Shrooms" verses frame sliders.

Check them out here: http://bikebits.us/cbr1100xx-blackbird-products-c14/

 

I have a pair of the R&G Frame Sliders installed on my 01 Bird. Yes I had to cut the holes and yes they have to be removed to take off the panel. I have had no problem with the spacer falling out when the slider is removed but can be refitted without to much trouble if they do come out.

 

 

 

 

 

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OK.  Thanks.

 

My question then is how in the world do you manage to hold the spacer in place once the fairing is on again and there's no finger clearance?  Glue it to the engine block?  It's pretty difficult for me to keep the spacer in place while I install the engine mount bolt before replacing the fairing.  What's the trick?

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1 hour ago, John01XX said:

As you mentioned, if you are looking for tip-over protection, there is no real need for frame sliders or cutting holes in the plastics.

Many Bird owners install what are referred to as tip-over "Shrooms" verses frame sliders.

Check them out here: http://bikebits.us/cbr1100xx-blackbird-products-c14/

 

I have a pair of the R&G Frame Sliders installed on my 01 Bird. Yes I had to cut the holes and yes they have to be removed to take off the panel. I have had no problem with the spacer falling out when the slider is removed but can be refitted without to much trouble if they do come out.

 

 

 

 

 

Just an fyi John, the website is not working for me, using phone access.

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27 minutes ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

Just an fyi John, the website is not working for me, using phone access.

Thanks, but I knew that.

It has been down for well over a month. 

I need to make the call and stop paying $39.99 a month for the ecommerce store and just keep it as a static site. I don't sell enough every month to justify the monthly cost. I sell most everything on Amazon now. Doing well over $1000 per month now on Amazon.
For BlackBird items I deal with people via PM, email and Paypal invoices and will be adding Google pay as well and dumping the ecommerce expense.

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1 hour ago, snowranger said:

OK.  Thanks.

 

My question then is how in the world do you manage to hold the spacer in place once the fairing is on again and there's no finger clearance?  Glue it to the engine block?  It's pretty difficult for me to keep the spacer in place while I install the engine mount bolt before replacing the fairing.  What's the trick?

There should be a little lip cut in that aligns the spacer. Add a small dab of silicone.

 

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I used Shrooms...did their job.  I also installed frame sliders (RXX can get a photo as he bought the XX from me).

 

BOTH are ideal.  The frame sliders need drilling, but it's not too hard if you know how with a hole-drilling bit.  The key is to line the panel up correctly and let the bolt you'll use to install the slider imprint on the backside of the panel so you properly center it.  Measure 3 times, cut once.

 

If you want added protection, you could see about gluing a hockey puck onto the stator cover as it's exposed and likely to grind on a lowside, but it's not as necessary.

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1 minute ago, sluggo49 said:

Thanks for clarifying.

I hate the notion of my bike floppin' over, but those just look ugly to me.

 

Each to his/her own, I guess.

 

Cracked plastic held together with duct tape or bad rashing looks worse.

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2 hours ago, sluggo49 said:

Thanks for clarifying.

I hate the notion of my bike floppin' over, but those just look ugly to me.

 

Each to his/her own, I guess.

I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts.
Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.

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1 hour ago, John01XX said:

I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts.
Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.

Those sound like they'd be too pretty to use for their intended purpose.

 

In any case, do you need a 'shroom if you have a slider?

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You don't "need" either.
The shrooms were designed to protect the side plastics in the case of a tip over or dropped bike while stopped or moving very slowly such as turning in a parking lot. The sliders are designed to protect the plastics in a low side crash. 
Personally i haven't seen much of an advantage to having frame sliders in the event of a "street" crash. On the track were bike often just slide to a stop is where they are most effective. The Shrooms only provide protection if the bike tips over when stopped or at, pushing the bike speeds.
Most track bike have sliders and so it is cool to have them on your street bike.

In my experience I have always slipped and dropped my bike at least once trying to back up or stopping on uneven surfaces. I have owned my new FJR over a year now and did drop it once turning around at a park with a spot of soft sand that washed the front tire out from under me! 
Most people did not want to drill holes in factory plastics for the frame sliders. As a result Jaws created the "Shrooms".

Just my opinion.

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I've considered both options and I'm convinced there's no single best solution to protecting the bike.  In my 15 years of riding on various bikes I've probably had five or six of those extremely humbling "tip overs".  Low speed and awkward situations that leave me with the bike on my leg instead of under my butt.  And one real boner at about 25 mph. that cost me ribs, collarbone and collapsed lung.  Oh yeah and lots of damage to the machinery.  So with my skill at falling over I think I need the help of the sliders.  Just didn't want to drill the holes only to find no way to put everything back together.  

Are there others out there who've used silicone to keep the spacer between the frame and the engine block on the throttle side in place when the bolt is removed.  Sounds a little iffy to me.

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It is not aimed at XX but  I would not put slider mounted to the frame or engine mount on the bike. On the race track I`ve seen them basically destroying the frame and cylinder head .

They do  work in tip overs and slow speed spills , but have potential of cousing much greater damage in more serious crashes . My track bike has sliders/protectors on booth ends of the crankshaft , and clutch cover . And tank covers becouse it is Yamaha . 

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9 hours ago, John01XX said:

I use to carry some very cool looking aluminum shrooms that were milled to the same shape and design of the dimpled fairing bolts.
Sold out many years ago and never had any more made up due to lack of demand.

Sorry that they are dirty John.

No time to clean after the storms.

5DA0FF35-D3F3-4651-8E94-D60CD7B2E87F.jpeg

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3 hours ago, sluggo49 said:

Those are nice!

 

Yea they were selling like hotcakes back in the day! 

Back then I worked for a large manufacturing plant that gave me free access to CNC machines and robotics.

No setup fees or program writing costs plus the aluminum material was very cheap. 
I made up and sold over 500 pairs of them but the last run of 50 pairs took me over a year to sell out.

I no longer work for that company so they are no more 😞 

 

I also made up some cool aluminum frame plugs that also matched the dimpled fairing bolts.

I still have a few of them left over except that as a set of four I only have 3 ! I am missing the smaller plug on the left side.
If someone has them installed like I do on my bird and loose one, if it is not the left small one I have replacements for the other three!

Here is a pic of the partial set of three.

 

820754559_AlumnFramePlugs.JPG.3ba90ed021d2873e04da5f649c98b742.JPG

 

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19 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Do you silicon them on John?

Make sure it's RTV type silicone.  I lost the small left one the first time I went to the track, because I used bathroom silicone.  It gets soft (no holding power) when the frame warms up.

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22 hours ago, John01XX said:

 

Yea they were selling like hotcakes back in the day! 

Back then I worked for a large manufacturing plant that gave me free access to CNC machines and robotics.

No setup fees or program writing costs plus the aluminum material was very cheap. 
I made up and sold over 500 pairs of them but the last run of 50 pairs took me over a year to sell out.

I no longer work for that company so they are no more 😞 

 

I also made up some cool aluminum frame plugs that also matched the dimpled fairing bolts.

I still have a few of them left over except that as a set of four I only have 3 ! I am missing the smaller plug on the left side.
If someone has them installed like I do on my bird and loose one, if it is not the left small one I have replacements for the other three!

Here is a pic of the partial set of three.

 

820754559_AlumnFramePlugs.JPG.3ba90ed021d2873e04da5f649c98b742.JPG

 

 

I like the frame plugs, too. But I'm on the fence about plugging the frame with the black plugs. Stuff that's hidden tends to get neglected in my world. And I still need to disassemble my swingarm.

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